Started cratering primers.

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kmw1954

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Before everyone starts crying out over pressure, DON'T!

I have a Savage Model11 that was purchased as a barreled action 243 with the intention of barreling it into a 6BR. Instead I came across a brand new unfired Model 12 223 Varmint barrel for a price I could not pass up.

First came a new Boyd's stock and with that I did shoot the 243 barrel and bedded the action. Gun shot pretty well though I had no intention of keeping that 243. So from there I obtained a 223 magazine and purchased a 223 bolt heat from Gun Shack.

Swapped barrels and bolt heads and everything worked wonderfully. Even fired a few factory Federal loads in it to verify. From there started working up loads using 69gr Nosler Comp bullets and TAC powder. Found a load between 23.6 and 23.8 that worked great. That was until outside temps soared over 90* and the load fell apart. So from there I started loading the same bullet with Accurate 2460. Western load data for the 69gr Sierra is 22.1 to 23.4 gr at 2.245"..

I had worked up this load previously for my Savage Model10 223 loaded out to 2.260" and found a great load with 2460 at 23.3gr so for the Model 11 I started at 22.4 and started working up and found a load of 2460 at 23.2 shot best. So then I started loading and playing with seating depth and then while doing this all of a sudden I started seeing cratered primers and then even a few pierced.

Now I had no idea why I am seeing this pressure spike or what I believe is a pressure spike.

I went back to the bench and verified everything. The brass measurements, the bullets, the powder, primers and even both powder scales. Everything checked out. Yet one does not get a pressure spike for no reason and I could find no discrepancy. Now I also assure you all that this load shot well with no pressure signs in two different rifles. No pierced primers, no flattened primers, no cratering and no sticky bolt or extractions.

One friend is insisting this is an over pressure but no explanation for why all of a sudden. Another friend and BR Shooter believes I developed a carbon ring. A thorough scrubbing helped but didn't relieve it so maybe I just didn't get it all out. I even went so far as to reload 5 each from 21.8 to 23.0gr which all still showed the same signs of cratering. Next I fired 8 rounds of factory Federal loads and am still seeing signs of cratering. Lastly I took some of those same loads I had fired before in the Model 11, the 69gr Nosler with 2460 powder and these were loaded from 22.7, 23.0 and 23.3 and shot them from my Model 10 and my AXIS, again they all shot terrifically with no cratering and no other over pressure signs.

So need input as to what could be going on. Lastly upon inspection of the bolt head I can see a very shiny area right around where the firing pin protrudes. Almost looks like a bevel going inside the hole for the firing pin.
 
Do you have a bore scope to ensure all of the camber and throat are polished clean? If it helped some, there could be more to it.

How is the firing pin protrusion for this new bolt setup? Could it have come loose and is too far exposed, piercing primers?

Are the bolt heads at GunShack factory stock or in house. As @Skylerbone says, Savages are known for large firing pin holes. Mine is too big also, but I measure the crater button and use that as my limiter. I think I may need a new striker spring by now too.

But, you are right, @kmw1954. Something changed to cause this to just now appear. I just don’t know what it is.:(
 
Let me be the first to say
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There is a small list of conditions other than over pressure that can change primer appearance, but without pictures. . .
 
Lastly upon inspection of the bolt head I can see a very shiny area right around where the firing pin protrudes. Almost looks like a bevel going inside the hole for the firing pin.

Beveled bolt is 1 of your problens. The other could be using CCI 400 PRIMERS or other thin cup.

When a primers is pierced, the tiny piece of primer metal can enter the firing pin channel. Clean bolt.

Pin protrusion should be checked & a new spring may be needed?

Edited to make bold cci 400.
 
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Thanks everyone so far. Nice to see I am not Nuts.

My friend that suggested the carbon ring has a bore scope and has volunteered to scope this barrel as soon as we can arrange to get together. He believes I haven,t gotten it all out. I agree but also still believe there is something else going on also.

The bolt head from Gun Shack I do not believe is a factory Savage part so that now has me concerned. Also the Firing Pin protrusion will be looked at. I understand there is a dimension for that so I will have to find it. As for the firing pin spring? The CRSO at the range I am working PT also handles all our repair work and maintains our rentals as just relayed that he recently contacted Savage for a replacement part and their CSR was rather rude and short, also stating that many parts are OS with no ETA on their arrival. Not even taking Back Orders.

Now to the CCI Primers. I have already been through over 1k CCI 400 SRP between my 2 Savages and never experienced a problem with them until now. I have currently fired over 600 out of this brick. Which speaking of primers I just received an email from MidWay USA that Winchester SRP are no longer available.
 
Changing the bolt head can change headspace as well.
You may need the bolt bushed to stop the cratering and 400 primers do have a softer cups.

Headspace for this gun/barrel was set using this bolt head.
As stated I have fired about 1600 CCI400 previous to this time with no issues. So again, why now?
 
Headspace for this gun/barrel was set using this bolt head.
As stated I have fired about 1600 CCI400 previous to this time with no issues. So again, why now?
IDK..
Weird things happen some times, we are talking about flow of soft metal when struck by a small pin, maybe your die setting has changed and your setting the shoulder back too much , or you just need to bush the bolt head, maybe you are just over pressure. Check your fps etc.
 
From there started working up loads using 69gr Nosler Comp bullets and TAC powder. Found a load between 23.6 and 23.8 that worked great. That was until outside temps soared over 90* and the load fell apart. So from there I started loading the same bullet with Accurate 2460. Western load data for the 69gr Sierra is 22.1 to 23.4 gr at 2.245"..

Your loading the 69gr Nosler Comp bullets with the data for the 69 gr Sierra bullet. Is this correct?

Bullets can make a big difference in pressure.

Before everyone starts crying out over pressure, DON'T!
Well i am. A look at Nosler online data using AA 2460 for a 64gr bullet, max powder is 23.5 grs. The 60 or 62 gr Noslers show a maximum of 23.0 grs, AA2460.
https://www.nosler.com/223-remington#N35SMCK
So, your loads are over pressure. Compare bullet bearing surface. More bearing, more pressure. Thicker jackets, more pressure.
 
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Your loading the 69gr Nosler Comp bullets with the data for the 69 gr Sierra bullet. Is this correct?

Well i am. A look at Nosler online data using AA 2460 for a 64gr bullet, max powder is 23.5 grs. The 60 or 62 gr Noslers show a maximum of 23.0 grs, AA2460.
https://www.nosler.com/223-remington#N35SMCK
So, your loads are over pressure. Compare bullet bearing surface. More bearing, more pressure. Thicker jackets, more pressure.

Yes I am using the Western load data for Sierra MK 69gr. with Accurate 2460 powder. I also have both bullets on my bench and they both measure the same including at the ogive and OAL. They are alike enough to for me to be considered the same. Western has a start load of 21.1gr of 2460 and a Max load of 23.4gr. Western is also listing a load length of 2.245" and I am loading at 2.260" or .015 longer. Which in itself should reduce the pressure.

Next I have the Nosler load data you list and nowhere in their material do I see a listing for Accurate 2460 powder. I have also loaded this bullet with their data using TAC powder which is provided in their data sheets.

So as you say I am over pressure then explain how that is when I experience the same results when loaded at 21.8gr which is a total 1.2gr below even your listed max.
 
Bullets can make a big difference in pressure.

Also you should note that I have loaded this load this exact same way before with the exact same components and did not experience this issue. This has just recently developed. So What Changed?
 
Pierced primers in a Savage are always due to Firing Pin protrusion. The pin should be no more than .035” protrusion. First, do you have the one of the Newer or Older style Firing Pins? Only the Older style is adjustable.

Top is New style, bottom is Old style.
381-F11-ED-0-B00-43-EB-B5-E7-82-BE5-F5991-D0.jpg

I only use the old style & have mine set at only about .031”. Although, I actually machined a whole new FB from S7 tool steel with a bit more weight.

This is all the protrusion my pin shows. Even .035” looks about the same. If yours looks like a good bit more, you have too much protrusion and subsequently the problem.
5-A31-C04-E-F35-A-48-A9-9-F6-A-BCE00-A5-C943-D.jpg
 
That’s why. .060” is far too much. .035”-.045”MAX, is the established setting. Should reduce yours as having it longer doesn’t help anything.
 
That’s why. .060” is far too much. .035”-.045”MAX, is the established setting. Should reduce yours as having it longer doesn’t help anything.
Why do you say .060 is in excess ? REM 61/2 are a low pressure primer never intended for that firearm anyway.
 
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Pierced primers in a Savage are always due to Firing Pin protrusion. The pin should be no more than .035” protrusion. First, do you have the one of the Newer or Older style Firing Pins? Only the Older style is adjustable.

Top is New style, bottom is Old style.
View attachment 1106710

Thanks Dave. I believe I read that same information on Savage Shooters Forum, just haven't gotten around to measuring yet but it is next on my list.

Now as I recall my Model 10 has the old style pin and this Model 11 has the new style pin. Also I thought both styles were adjustable so I thought wrong, Thanks.

So if it is the new style and is long how do you correct it?
 
. .035”-.045”MAX, is the established setting
To fire factory ammo most reliably, I would guess the longer .045" is best. (I dont know the factory spec)

The Savage extractor will allow an undersized round (excessive bottle neck cartridge headspace) to move forward when the firing pin strikes.
The 223 shoulder is set back .006" from the pin strike.(measured)

When there is a misfire, it mostly caused by pin velocity being low. Not protrusion.

full.jpg
 
Thanks Dave. I believe I read that same information on Savage Shooters Forum, just haven't gotten around to measuring yet but it is next on my list.

Now as I recall my Model 10 has the old style pin and this Model 11 has the new style pin. Also I thought both styles were adjustable so I thought wrong, Thanks.

So if it is the new style and is long how do you correct it?
Not to discount the fine information posted on Savage Shooters forum , I prefer the input of the master rifle smith I used with the reputation for excellence and the targets I have that tell me otherwise. Light strikes on a rifle primer are detrimental to accuracy and pin fall is different then pin protrusion.
 
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