Started priming...need help ASAP

[gfanikf]

Okay so I setup the lee auto prime and I must not have pushed hard enough the primer didn't go in far enough and now is stuck in the shell holder. So how I can fix the problem?

I was able to remove the shell holder, but now the brass in it (primer is blocking it)

Picture
http://i.imgur.com/fpQ6A.jpg

 

[griff383]

Make sure it is oriented correctly, if its not sideways or backwards you can try to seat it fully.

 

[Canuck-IL]

I must not have pushed hard enough

So put it back in the press and push harder.

/Bryan

 

[gfanikf]

Fixed it just had to push harder, guess I'm just nervous. I didnt realize how much forced was needed,
I'll post a pic of my first primed round in a minute.

Picture.
http://i.imgur.com/zQ2Tj.jpg

 

[gfanikf]

Does this look any better?
http://i.imgur.com/zQ2Tj.jpg

It just felt like I couldnt push it any harder or I can't get it reorientated for some reason.

 

[gfanikf]

The whole batch
http://i.imgur.com/im5fo.jpg

Well despite some initial hiccups a primer dropping on the floor, all seems to hae gone well and rather easy past the first time and the one time with the case not being secured.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Looking at the primers from the top tells us nothing, we need to see them from the side because they are supposed to be slightly below the case.

If you have trouble seeing it feel them with your finger. You should be able to feel the primer seated slightly below the primer hole lip.

When all else fails place the case primer side down on a flat surface. If the case sits flat on the surface instead of rocking you are fine.

 

[gfanikf]

Looking at the primers from the top tells us nothing, we need to see them from the side because they are supposed to be slightly below the case.

If you have trouble seeing it feel them with your finger. You should be able to feel the primer seated slightly below the primer hole lip.

When all else fails place the case primer side down on a flat surface. If the case sits flat on the surface instead of rocking you are fine.

I think we're doing good using the stand up test.

http://i.imgur.com/bwjvz.jpg

One did feel a little above with the finger test, I guess I'll give that one a little extra push.

 

[Lost Sheep]

Were they all hard to seat? You may have crimped or undersized primer pockets. What is the brass' headstamp?

Are the primer pockets crimped (military brass is usually "crimped', which doesn't mean crimped in the sense we use when referring to the case mouth and the bullet, but when talking about primer pockets refers to a slight ridge at the primer pocket opening - call it a "maidenhead" for want of a better term).

The make a tool for removing the ridge, called a "Primer Pocket Uniformer" or "Primer Pocket Reamer" specifically for making primer pockets just the right size and making the flash hole uniform size, too.

Lost Sheep

 

[TB2Blazer]

If it happens again and you cant get it out put the shell holder in your press and just use the sizing/de priming die to push it out.

 

[FROGO207]

TB2Blaser If you do that the brass will become stuck in the die. There is nothing to help hold the Lee Auto Prime shell holder in the press when removing it with the Auto Prime ones and once you push it up it will be stuck there.

To the OP I will second the thought that you might have primer pockets that were crimped. If it was not removed at all or not enough then that primer would be a pain to insert. Like 2 thumbs and push as hard as I could without breaking things. When things are working well with WIN primers one thumb and good pressure will work in most instances----or that's how mine works anyway. Some of the foreign brass (read metric-- S&B etc.) will seat harder due to smaller primer pockets anyway. And yes if it gets in there sideways just push real hard and crush the primer until it can be taken out and deprimed. I have never had a primer detonate in a priming tool or press in 30+ years yet using steady pressure to seat them/remove them when live BTW.

Those look like R P 30-06 brass. Those should be a normal primer pocket push. No crimped pockets in that brand/caliber.

 

[Walkalong]

Does this look any better?

I think we're doing good using the stand up test.

We cannot come close to seeing if they are OK from above.

You can use the back end of a dial caliper to check seating depth. You can also lay the flat edge across the brass base and get an idea.

Do not be afraid to seat a primer hard.

 

[LiveLife]

I think we're doing good using the stand up test.

Looking at the primers from the top tells us nothing, we need to see them from the side because they are supposed to be slightly below the case.

If you have trouble seeing it feel them with your finger. You should be able to feel the primer seated slightly below the primer hole lip.

We cannot come close to seeing if they are OK from above.

Do not be afraid to seat a primer hard.

+1 to seating primers below flush.

I have the older Lee Auto Prime and the newer XR hand priming tools and prefer to seat primers .004" below flush. My QC check is to run my finger tips over the primers to check if they are slightly below flush - if I feel any high primers, I seat them deeper.

Why below flush? Different headstamp cases have varying primer pocket depths and different brand primers also come with varying primer cup/anvil heights so seating primers just to flush may not always ensure the anvil is properly set against the priming compound to ignite when the firing pin strikes the primer cup - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7813399#post7813399

For those wondering why I use .004" below flush as my reference primer seating depth, consider this:

I am averaging around .117"-.118" (with a few variations to .115"-.120") for primer pocket depths for small primer cases (9mm/40S&W). I am measuring .119" for Winchester/Magtech SP primer height and .118" for Tula/PMC SP primers (actual cup height without the anvil feet were same at .109" for Winchester/Tula SP).

This means, depending on primer pocket depth variations, seating primer flush may not set the anvil against the priming compound.

Here's a discussion thread on why primers need to be seated .004" below flush - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=568838

If you are seating larger diameter Wolf/Tula LP in once fired cases and tighter primer pocket cases like S&B/RWS, it will take significantly more effort to seat the primer cups just to flush, even when press priming.

And you can't always tell by how "flat" the primer cups look to determine if they are seated deep enough as different brand/model of primers have varying hardness of primer cups and some will flatten more than others. Here are some comparison pictures showing how .004" seated primers and .008" "crush depth" primers look - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7810685#post7810685

 

[gfanikf]

Hey guys,

First thanks all the advice. Time for some quick updates

The brass was Remingtion CL that I had shot. I didn't tumble or clean it though. I do have a bunch of LC once fired (by the seller) that has been deprimed, tumbled, and cleaned, while I assume it's been fully deprimed and cleared of the crimped primer I'll make sure to double check.

I appreciate all the visuals and information on seating depth. I do have calipers and I'll check tonight. The primers I'm using are Winchester Large Rifle.

I guess the reason I felt out about squeezing anymore was it felt (after the first time) as going as far as it could. It's hard to describe, but it didn't feel like any room was left.

I really appreciate all the quick replies as only shortly after my finish my daughter woke up and before my wife feed her, I had to change my daughters diaper. If I had had primers and ammo sitting on the ground at 12:30 AM, I don't think she would have been happy. I did make sure to wash my hands thoroughly before changing my daughter and verify all primers were accounted for and put away.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

getting rid of the primer crimp is a special step that is not done by depriming. you'll be able to tell when you try to seat a primer.

 

[chrome_austex]

wow, using the back end of the dial caliper for depth measurement. Thanks for that little gem Walkalong! I had no idea.

 

[popper]

Clean the cases - lemishine & dish soap. It rifle so clean the PP. Some ammo now has crimped PP. Warm the cases - hot to touch & then seat, much easier. May have to use a 1/4" drill bit to clean the crimp from the pocket, doesn't take much.

 

[gfanikf]

Clean the cases - lemishine & dish soap. It rifle so clean the PP. Some ammo now has crimped PP. Warm the cases - hot to touch & then seat, much easier. May have to use a 1/4" drill bit to clean the crimp from the pocket, doesn't take much.

I actually don't have a power drill or dremal. I keep meaning to vs borrowing one can someone recommend a cheap one?

I'll have to try the discount cleaning method again as last time I did it I didn't feel like I got satisfactory results from the method I saw on YouTube.

Still I'm happy I finally did some priming.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Captaingyro]

To the OP: welcome to reloading. You will have many rewarding experiences, and may find that it becomes an obsession. You could do much worse in choosing hobbies.

That having been said, let me say that it sounds like you may be rushing this a little bit. If you're not aware of what a crimped primer pocket is, you could probably stand to do a little background reading on the whole reloading process. There are any number of reputable books on the subject, plenty of info available on the web (like here), and a wealth of info in the opening pages of any reloading manual (you do have at least one reloading manual, right?).

Many of us have been reloading for years, and are still learning, so don't feel like you've got to know everything, but give yourself a firm foundation of knowledge first.

Congratulations on the baby girl, too. The first time she goes shooting with Daddy, your chest will nearly explode with pride. Ask me how I know...

 

[ArchAngelCD]

That having been said, let me say that it sounds like you may be rushing this a little bit. If you're not aware of what a crimped primer pocket is, you could probably stand to do a little background reading on the whole reloading process. There are any number of reputable books on the subject, plenty of info available on the web (like here), and a wealth of info in the opening pages of any reloading manual (you do have at least one reloading manual, right?).

If you are looking for advice on a good reloading manual I would suggest the newest Lyman manual, the 49th Edition. It's not only data, it's also a wealth of how-to information too.

 

[rcmodel]

I actually don't have a power drill or dremal. I keep meaning to vs borrowing one can someone recommend a cheap one?

You need neither for anything reloading related!!!

Just forget the whole 1/4" drill bit thing anyway.
It is not the best way to trim primer pocket crimps.

You can use your chamfer/deburring tool.
Or just buy a primer pocket reamer made for the purpose.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/501588/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-tool-small
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/682934/lyman-primer-pocket-reamer-tool-large

And I do also suggest you buy a Lyman #49 reloading manual and read it several times!!

rc

 

[GLOOB]

IMHO, a 1/4 drill bit or a chamfer tool is way better than a primer pocket reamer.

And also, IMHO, a drill is way more indispensable than a reloading press!

I actually don't have a power drill or dremal. I keep meaning to vs borrowing one can someone recommend a cheap one?

A good drill and/or dremel? Well, you can always check harbor freight, if you're on a budget. But you'd definitely want a drill, not a dremel, for this particular usage.

 

[gfanikf]

That having been said, let me say that it sounds like you may be rushing this a little bit. If you're not aware of what a crimped primer pocket is, you could probably stand to do a little background reading on the whole reloading process. There are any number of reputable books on the subject, plenty of info available on the web (like here), and a wealth of info in the opening pages of any reloading manual

I was aware of the Crimp issue, but I knew barring military brass, it's a bit of a non issue, so I just bypassed stuff on that.

(you do have at least one reloading manual, right?).

Just the Lee one, I keep meaning to get another, but I want one that isn't just data, but a lot of how to info. Part of the problem is I like very detailed explanations that also mention secondary points (like how when you size a case it will barely appear different than a non-sized once fired case.

Many of us have been reloading for years, and are still learning, so don't feel like you've got to know everything, but give yourself a firm foundation of knowledge first.

Yeah, I have to admit I've been doing this a bit piecemeal as I got parts and moved forward in a step and trying to run it on a budget.

Congratulations on the baby girl, too. The first time she goes shooting with Daddy, your chest will nearly explode with pride. Ask me how I know...

Thanks, I look forward to it one day, even if her mom doesn't. lol

Just forget the whole 1/4" drill bit thing anyway.
It is not the best way to trim primer pocket crimps.

You can use your chamfer/deburring tool.
Or just buy a primer pocket reamer made for the purpose.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/501588/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-tool-small
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/682934/lyman-primer-pocket-reamer-tool-large

Thanks!

And I do also suggest you buy a Lyman #49 reloading manual and read it several times!!

rc

Thanks I'm going to put an order in for it. I had it in my hands at Cabela's last week I just wish I had bought it. I just didn't want to get lots of duplication, but the Lee book is well a little lacking, not because of product focus, that's understandable, it's just a bit spartan.

 

[the count]

This is not rocket science

@gfankk

I do remember how it was in the beginning so you have my sympathy. At the same time just use your common sense. If a primer sticks out and you can feel it with your finger its not seated deep enough. If something binds in the press take it apart and find out where the problem was. Most issues can be solved by logical thinking. You learn more by trying to figure things out on your own than running to the forum, which does not mean that you should not use it if truly in trouble.