vaalpens
Member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2014
- Messages
- 2,618
Thanks!Sweet, nice looking pistol.
Thanks!Sweet, nice looking pistol.
I seat three bullets in empty unprimed cases to test such things, this practise has worked well for me.So for now I'll probably be starting with the following COL's for plunk and setback testing,
Thanks! That is normally what I also do for every new bullet I try. The dummy bullets are then used for cycling, setback and plunk testing.I seat three bullets in empty unprimed cases to test such things, this practise has worked well for me.
Thanks! I'll work up my loads, but I do appreciate any load data and test results you can provide. It helps with the decision making since it provides additional data points.We picked up a used Ruger 380 LCP for the grandson. He loves it. I loaded up a few rounds to try out. Once he shot them up I loaded another 500 rounds. I'd have to check the load data. I enjoy loading for the 380.
Thanks! It seems that is the consensus. Powders on the faster side works better, but find something the meters well.When loading for 380 acp I found choosing a powder that meters well is a big plus, sorry to repeat but Accurate #2,#5 W-231 and Bullseye work well. I'm sure there are more. I found with the small case volume of the 380 acp the margin of error is less when loading up. Stay safe.
Another one I might try is W244. It is one of those Hodgdon powders that is listed with a .5gr instead of just .3gr. maybe a little bit more room for error.I have not tried BE 86 for 380acp, that would be worth a shot for sure
Correct, but everything is tiny on the LCP.Cool a locked breach action. Slower powders should perform well.
If CFE (copper fouling eliminator) is not available try Autocomp. I just finished doing some load work up with it in .33H&RMag, .380ACP, 9Mak, and 9mm and it behaves nicely across the load range - however it does have a narrower range than CFE.To keep things simple, I think I will start with Hodgdon load data and powders. The plan is to initially use two powders, one faster and one slower, and then another two powders. The highlighted powders are what I am planning to use with Titegroup and W244 paired, and HP-38 and CFE Pistol paired.
View attachment 1176635
View attachment 1176636
I will load these loads with a COL of .970" and CCI 500 primers. The primer s could be changed to Federal 100's if the cases I use have tight primer pockets and the Federal primers will work better. Based on the above load data it seems i should be able to have my normal 6 loads to , except for HP-38. maybe I'll just start lower with HP38 and still create 6 loads.
It is probably time to stop talking/typing and start doing. Finalize the load data and start loading. More to come.
Thanks. I have a little bit of AutoComp left, but much more CFE Pistol. I'll go the CFE Pistol route for now.If CFE (copper fouling eliminator) is not available try Autocomp. I just finished doing some load work up with it in .33H&RMag, .380ACP, 9Mak, and 9mm and it behaves nicely across the load range - however it does have a narrower range than CFE.
Hmm, my Lee shell holder seems ok, but maybe try a different brand. (turret press correct, not a progressive?)I verified that the #4 is the correct shell holder for the press, but it doesn't seem the be a good fit like all my other shell holders
Hmm, my Lee shell holder seems ok, but maybe try a different brand. (turret press correct, not a progressive?)
Lyman 50 lists these shell holders for .380
Lyman #26
Hornady #16
RCBS and Redding #10
Maybe chrono some factory ammo to see what you are getting with it, as most load data uses a longer barrel than what your LCP (or my Kahr) have.
Hope one of the above works out well for you.
As a side note when my Kahr P380 was new it wouldn't function with anything less than close to MAX loads. After I had a couple 100 rounds thru it it loosened up a bit and was happy with just a little above start charges on up.
I think my father in-law’s Lee 4-hole turret must have been cast by old Mister Lee himself. Most of the red is gone and he’s had it to Lee for rebuilding more than once but it’s still chugging. The multifit case holder is Lee’s weak point.Thanks for the information.
I did contact Lee and described the problem. They replied the next day and indicated they will be sending a replacement shell holder. I'm not sure if it will be another #4, or maybe something else. I will evaluate the replacement shell holder first, and then try another make if it still not perfect.
Yes, I have a 4 hole turret.
The classic turret is solid and should last a long time. I'll wait and see what replacement Lee is sending before finishing the priming. This is the first time I have had an issues with a Lee universal shell holder.I think my father in-law’s Lee 4-hole turret must have been cast by old Mister Lee himself. Most of the red is gone and he’s had it to Lee for rebuilding more than once but it’s still chugging. The multifit case holder is Lee’s weak point.
This is what I did for all my calibers when I started. I still use those cases to do Node testing for rifle, then use my better aftermarket brass for the second round of node ladders.I normally use Unique to load the .380... for my pistols... which are both 'full size' .380's (a Colt Government, and a PPK/s,) so the powder actually has a chance to burn. Unique is probably not the hot setup in the shorter LCP's 2.8" barrel, I would definitely pick something a little faster... W231, TiteGroup, or something along those lines, and particularly with lighter bullets.
I don't know anything about the brass... I get my .380 brass from my factory ammos, normally RP, but the last batch was Fiocchi (GFL.) I don't know if there is tricky brass out there... like stepped brass or something... so I'd be looking pretty closely at your range pickups.
Personally, my favorite way to get brass for handloading is to buy a case of factory ammo. You get, say, 500 rounds of ammo with no effort, and doesn't eat into your primer or powder stash, it allows you to shoot your pistol and get used to factory performance, and leaves you with good brass for reloading that you know the source of. Further, I always have some factory ammos with me to compare my handloads to, and to prove my chronograph setup. Factory ammo is a useful tool.