Steel Cased ammo bad in an AR? Pshaw.

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mattlove444

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This past weekend I fired over a thousand rounds of Monarch steel cased ammo out of a stock Bushmaster M4A3 with no malfunctions whatsoever. I dont no why people say steel cased ammo is bad in an AR15. By the way, we did a mag dump as fast as we could pull the trigger with three Beta C mags. :D Still no malfunctions. Say what you will.
 
My understanding is that aside from the lacquer gumming up the action, the steel cases also do not expand to form a tight seal in the chamber and can cause heavy fouling and over time erosion more than brass cased. I also understand that the steel cases are rough on extractors.

No idea how much of that is true. I don't shoot steel case too often, though.
 
You will go through extractors a little bit faster. But seeing as I can buy a whole new bolt with the savings on ONE case of the stuff, that's kind of a pointless argument.

As for the primer sealant gumming up the firing pin. Yes, it can happen. It takes a LOT of rounds though. Both me and some shooting buddies have gone through multiple cases of wolf without cleaning much if anything on the gun. It was accumulating there, but was far from causing an issue.

As for the green colored lacquer on the case. That stuff is pretty temperature resistant. I haven't seen an example that would ocme off under using a torch, so I kind of doubt that one.

As for the quality of the seal formed by the case? Yes, it is less. Yes, in some instances it can cause softer cased ammo to bind if it follows it. But then again so can crappy brass ammo. I haven't seen anyone's rifle with a rel 5.56 chamber hang up switching back and forth. I have seen a tight .223 wylde chamber bind up. But that was with a batch of ammo known to ahve soft brass cases. Which also would allow an AR to rip off part of the case rim. SO.....

My last upper loved the old wolf 62gr copper jacketed ammo. It's not liking this bimetal jacketed stuff so much. With the old stuff, the upper that liked it got about 2moa. With the new stuff, I can't get much better than 4moa.
 
Key words for success.
5.56 NATO chamber dimension
Keep the rifle and especially the chamber, clean.
 
Key words for success.
5.56 NATO chamber dimension
Keep the rifle and especially the chamber, clean.
Keeping it lubricated is more important than keeping it clean, as it turns out. An AR will run wet and dirty, but it will not run well dry and dirty. A few drops in the gas vents periodically, and on the bolt carrier as needed, work wonders.
 
On that 16,000 round AR-15: other thing to consider: The carbine length gas system might actually help the rifle run reliably in that scenario. Just like an AK being over-gassed contributes to its reliability, so to I suspect being overgassed helps an carbine-system run longer without stoppages.
 
I know a guy who smokes two packs a day and hasn't got lung cancer!

After Wolf ammo bent my SKS firing pin and locked it up due to pierced primers, I pay a little extra for decent ammo. Or I make my own now.
 
Yes I have some ARs that will shoot anything.... I have some pure breeds that only talk to brass...As said before it depends on the chamber and your results with any given ammo. Some manufactures will void a warranty if steel case ammo is used...or so they say on the warranty card.

I like Silver Bear myself, it works...
 
Shooting lacquer coated ammo WILL NOT gum up your chamber. That is an internet myth that needs to stop being spread.

Your rifle may or may not run on the steel cased stuff. It is not the fault of the ammunition. It's the rifle, if it won't run it.
 
I have no problem shooting steel case stuff, other than my gun just will not reliably extract it. Haven't had any issues with brass ammo, though. I used it as an excuse to start reloading, since I don't do high volume shooting with rifle, the slight difference in price is made up to me in added accuracy.
 
My 1/4" MOA white oak armament will never see the evil steel cased ammo!!! Just because I spent a lot of money on it and it shoots!! Why chance it. I personally don't like the idea of slamming steel cases into a hot steel chamber. The steel ammo case is a lot harder on the chamber than brass. If I had a model one sales barrel on a KISS rifle, I'd probably shoot steel cased ammo al day long. To each his own. Merry Christmas! Brian.
 
I shoot Wolf ammo in my Bushmaster and have never had a problem.

On the other hand, I clean my rifle when I get home from the range.

Like you are supposed to.

A clean rifle is more reliable than a dirty rifle, and you never know when you will need a reliable rifle, so clean it.
 
"One rifle, with one brand, does not a history make."

Exactly. Looking back to Logic 101 in college, the one thing the prof kept dwelling on was "sample size".

I have shot steel cased ammo in two AR's with completely different results. So I can say from experience that it may work in one rifle but not the other.
 
The problem with the "Steel Case Ammo" debates, is that there's a lot of myths, prejudice, and lack of common sense.

First: It doesn't matter if it's steel case or brass; some weapons don't like certain ammo. I have a 32acp pistol that WILL NOT under any circumstances, shoot Corbon ammo. Matter of fact; it won't even fit in the chamber. And it's a quality pistol. (Walther). And Corbon is NOT JUNK ammo. Some guns just don't like certain ammo.

Second: There is no lacquer on the steel case ammo that you can "Melt Off" and clog up the chamber of your rifle. It's not possible. You can't get your rifle hot enough to melt lacquer off of a steel shell casing. Even if it's polymer, and NOT lacquer; which most is; you still can't melt it.

Third: If your rifle will shoot steel case ammo reliably, then shoot it. Don't let anyone tell you differently. This is where the prejudice and lack of common sense comes in. These people are simply rationalizing themselves paying anywhere from $4-$6 MORE a box of 20 for plinking ammo. (I'll mention the common sense part here in a minute).

Forth: As mentioned, the reason "SOME" rifles have an issue with steel cased ammo after a little while, is because steel cases, even though still pretty thin, doesn't expand as well as brass; and thus, doesn't create as good of a seal in the chamber. This allows a little blow back with powder residue, grit, etc... That's why cases sometimes stick.

Bottom line: If your gun can shoot steel case ammo, and it's accurate enough for your plinking, then you should shoot it. Don't listen to those that say they'll NEVER shoot steel cases in their AR. They are free to feel this way; just don't let them influence your decision. And there are a number of steel cased ammos out there. Try the different ones. Some like the zinc coated Silver bear is supposedly more successful.

As for those that say they'll never shoot steel case ammo in their AR, it's either because the ammo is "Commi"; or because they think they'll "Break" something. Mainly, they say that steel is harder on the extractor in the bolt, and can break it. Well, there's 2 things to consider here. 1) The steel in your bolt is harder than the steel in the case ammo. Laws of physics prove that the case will rip before the bolt will. 2) Needs it's own paragraph. See below.

An AR bolt is a wearable part. It is designed around the 5000-8000 round use point. In other words, a typical bolt should last at least 5000-8000 rounds. Lets say that using steel cased ammo cuts your bolt's life expectancy down to 3000 rounds. 3000 rounds is 150 boxes of ammo. With steel ammo on average, costing about $4 per box less, that 3000 rounds just saved you $600.00. THAT'S SIX HUNDRED DOLLARS. If you ever clean your AR; and I assume you do; then you've had the Bolt out of the carrier group to clean it. And you know that it takes exactly 42 SECONDS to get the bolt out of the gun. "Give or take a handicap". Also, "THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT".... A BRAND NEW BOLT, COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED, AND READY TO DROP INTO YOUR GUN..... Costs about $50-$60!!!!! So, you've still NETTED a profit of approximately $550.

And if the original bolt lasted to say around the 5,000-8,000 round mark, where the average bolt lasts to anyway, you would have saved anywhere from $750-$1,200 on ammo costs. For $1200, you could buy a brand new entire Coly H-bar AR rifle!!!! Hell; the $750 will get you a brand new S&W M&P15. Every box of steel ammo you buy, drop $4 in a piggy bank. You can probably buy an entire new AR rifle; borrow the bolt from it; and have an entire brand new rifle for parts.

Sorry; but the only reason NOT to shoot steel case ammo in your AR, is because the rifle simply doesn't like it. There is absolutely no other reason. "I am NOT talking about match competitions or home defense". I'm talking about the 95% of the shooting you are going to do. The plinking. But some AR's, just like some AK's and other rifles, won't like the Steel case ammo. Others won't have a problem with it at all. I have 3 AR platform rifles. I just bought the 3rd one and haven't tried it yet. But the first 2 have no problem with steel case ammo. I clean the rifle after about 150-200 rounds. Will it stick rounds if I didn't clean it as well???? I don't know. I plan on cleaning the rifle anyway. Have I ever had a round not chamber properly or fail to feed/eject??? Yes; but it's quite rare. And considering that a brand new complete bolt only costs $50; that's 12 boxes of steel case ammo. 240 rounds. I'll shoot that in my outing. God forbid; I'd have to break a bolt EVERY OUTING, just to break even!!! If your rifle doesn't like it; Don't Shoot it. If your rifle like's it; SHOOT IT. You're not going to hurt anything, and you'll save a lot of money.

DISCLAIMER: There are some that love to reload; shoot competition; or shoot very few rounds in their AR. e.g. 200 rounds in a year. Reloaders need brass. Competition need highly accurate $15+ per box ammo. 200 rounds a year won't notice the $40 per year savings. But for those who will shoot 1200-2000 rounds a year: (100-150 rounds a month); You're going to save $240-$400 per year. If you're shooting 300+ rounds per month, you could buy a new AR-15 every year just with the savings. "Let alone a replacement bolt".
 
No problems with steel case in my ArmaLite upper and I'm expecting the new Daniel Defense upper that's on the way to like it as well.
 
Never had any problems in the 2-3k wolf or other steel ammo I've put through a Stag 16" or a M1S 20", both 5.56 chambers. Accuracy has been surprisingly acceptable also.

When I'm not rolling my own, steel cased is what gets shot.
 
Us normal folks would appreciate it if you steel-cased shooting heathens would pick up your empties and throw them away! I don't understand why folks that shoot steel and aluminum ammo think it's OK to just leave it on the ground, that crap is everywhere!
 
Wow. I didn't think this post was going to get so many replies. Thanks for all the cold hare facts people. You already converted one of my friends to a steel case user and he has saved sixty dollars already. XD
 
I don't buy that the polymer/lacquer doesn't leave something in the chamber. I had one rifle choke hard on some Tula. The subsequent brass cased ammo had funky crap smeared all over it which gradually diminished as more and more rounds were fired. Scrubbed the chamber. No more odd deposits. Hmmm.
 
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