For those that have experience with multiple gun cleaning kits, which do you suggest and why? I need a kit that will clean my Marlin Model 60 (.22LR), Norinco SKS (7.62x39), and Remington 870 (12 ga.). There seem to be many choices. I was hoping to hear from those with first hand experience. Thanks.
Suggestions Need On Gun Cleaning Kit
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DoubleTapDrew
Member
For .22 rifles that aren't easy to put a rod in through the breech (like 10/22 and probably your Marlin 60) I really like the hoppes boresnake in .22. For the larger calibers it depends on your budget, from inexpensive multi-piece rods to spendy one piece carbon-unobtanium units. Otis flexible kits are fairly nice too but on the spendy side.
Otis kits are nice, complete and compact. They are not cheap but sometimes you can get them for less on GB. I have the military sniper kit that does 7.62 Nato and 5.56 and I think also 9mm. They use a flexible cable which they say is better for your barrel than the metal rods.
WardenWolf
member
I like Hoppes boresnakes. Fast, effective, and get the gun completely clean. Only downside is they're expensive if you have a lot of calibers. This, combined with a basic cleaning kit for cleaning other areas that the boresnake doesn't reach (front wall of the chamber, for example) will get your gun cleaned in record time.
Auburn1992
Member
For .22's I use a boresnake. For anything bigger I'll use a one-piece Tetra Gun cleaning rod (~$30)
jamesb
Member
I have boresnakes for every caliber I own and shoot. This makes after range trips real easy. I also have an otis armors kits that has just about every caliber known that I use for when the boresnakes just don't get the job done. I would definatley get a boresnake in 12ga for you 870, I am not sure how my shotguns ever got clean before I got mine.
Auburn1992
Member
+1 on the boresnake for 12 ga especially
punkndisorderly
Member
Avoid the Hoppes multi part rods. They suck big time. I've had 3 of them and the hanlde pulls out easily.
Bore snakes are fine for a quick cleaning at the range. However, I don't think they do a very good job of cleaning since they seem to get really cruddy really fast. After a few uses, I would compare them to pushing around a filthy mop: what's the point. For a 12 guage they might be ok, but for a rifled barrel, I'll stick to rods.
I really like single piece, coated spring steel rods for long guns. Ideally, two for each caliber group (ie .22 and .30). One for the brush and one for the jag.
No messing with putting together and taking apart, no worries about the segments rubbing at areas, and generally they are better quality than most of the multi part rods. Downside, they're expensive. If you do a lot of cleaning and/or have fairly expensive firearms, I think they're worth it.
However, for relatively inexpensive firearms such as you have, any decent cleaning kit should be fine.
Bore snakes are fine for a quick cleaning at the range. However, I don't think they do a very good job of cleaning since they seem to get really cruddy really fast. After a few uses, I would compare them to pushing around a filthy mop: what's the point. For a 12 guage they might be ok, but for a rifled barrel, I'll stick to rods.
I really like single piece, coated spring steel rods for long guns. Ideally, two for each caliber group (ie .22 and .30). One for the brush and one for the jag.
No messing with putting together and taking apart, no worries about the segments rubbing at areas, and generally they are better quality than most of the multi part rods. Downside, they're expensive. If you do a lot of cleaning and/or have fairly expensive firearms, I think they're worth it.
However, for relatively inexpensive firearms such as you have, any decent cleaning kit should be fine.
MT GUNNY
Member
Personally don't think any kit is worth buying.
I built my own ; Tipton cleaning rod, Patches of different sizes, Jags of all owned Calibers, Bore brushs all calibers, Montana Extreme Copper Killer( very potent)
http://www.montanaxtreme.com/ , You get the Picture ....
I built my own ; Tipton cleaning rod, Patches of different sizes, Jags of all owned Calibers, Bore brushs all calibers, Montana Extreme Copper Killer( very potent)
http://www.montanaxtreme.com/ , You get the Picture ....
.38 Special
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Boresnakes are good for most purposes. You obviously can't use them to scrub lead, copper, or plastic fouling out of the bore, so I consider them adjuncts rather than ends-unto-themselves.
I personally don't think much of the "kits" out there. They always, in my experience, contain a few useful items and a bunch of junk. Moreover, they rarely have any really high quality items.
In your shoes I would buy at least one good coated rod. Dewey has the best reputation in general. Avoid the jointed aluminum rods, at the least. You can get a .22 caliber rod and accomplish all your cleaning with it, but it really would be best to get one for .22 and another for .30 on up, which should by fine for the shotty gun as well. Get a collection of good quality brushes for your various calibers -- and by good I mean brass bristles and a loop on the end, rather than plastic or steel bristles and the end just chopped off -- and you're most of the way home. A good quality solvent like Butch's Bore Shine or Shooter's Choice is a wise investment, as is a can of brake cleaner, which can be used to blast out crud from the action as well as clean the solvent off your brushes when you're done.
Finally, a good supply of soft cotton cleaning patches in appropriate sizes is important. Avoid cheap shiny patches; they're not good for much. A great technique is to wrap the patches around an undersize or worn out brush. This really gets the patches into the grooves and prevents them from falling off in the bore.
A "standard" technique -- one of many but one that does the job -- is to soak a patch in solvent, wrap it around a brush, and push it through the bore -- from the breach, if possible -- all the way out the muzzle, where it is removed and discarded. Then run the brush back-and-forth about a dozen times, occasionally adding some solvent to it. Now remove the rod, clean the brush with brake cleaner, and wrap it with a clean patch. Push the patch through the bore and again discard it. Repeat with 3 or 4 more patches, until the come out clean and dry. This is generally adequate, with the main exception being a bore that is badly metal fouled. In this situation, the above still applies, but then you run a soaking wet patch through the bore and let it stand for 15 minutes or so, then brush and use dry patches. If after that another solvent-soaked patch comes out green, you repeat the soaking, as many times as necessary to remove the green. Or you get bored, whichever comes first.
HTH!
PS -- it's generally unnecessary to clean the bore of a .22 rimfire. Occasionally blow the scunge out of the action with the brake cleaner, run a dry Boresnake through the bore to sop up any leftovers, and call it good.
I personally don't think much of the "kits" out there. They always, in my experience, contain a few useful items and a bunch of junk. Moreover, they rarely have any really high quality items.
In your shoes I would buy at least one good coated rod. Dewey has the best reputation in general. Avoid the jointed aluminum rods, at the least. You can get a .22 caliber rod and accomplish all your cleaning with it, but it really would be best to get one for .22 and another for .30 on up, which should by fine for the shotty gun as well. Get a collection of good quality brushes for your various calibers -- and by good I mean brass bristles and a loop on the end, rather than plastic or steel bristles and the end just chopped off -- and you're most of the way home. A good quality solvent like Butch's Bore Shine or Shooter's Choice is a wise investment, as is a can of brake cleaner, which can be used to blast out crud from the action as well as clean the solvent off your brushes when you're done.
Finally, a good supply of soft cotton cleaning patches in appropriate sizes is important. Avoid cheap shiny patches; they're not good for much. A great technique is to wrap the patches around an undersize or worn out brush. This really gets the patches into the grooves and prevents them from falling off in the bore.
A "standard" technique -- one of many but one that does the job -- is to soak a patch in solvent, wrap it around a brush, and push it through the bore -- from the breach, if possible -- all the way out the muzzle, where it is removed and discarded. Then run the brush back-and-forth about a dozen times, occasionally adding some solvent to it. Now remove the rod, clean the brush with brake cleaner, and wrap it with a clean patch. Push the patch through the bore and again discard it. Repeat with 3 or 4 more patches, until the come out clean and dry. This is generally adequate, with the main exception being a bore that is badly metal fouled. In this situation, the above still applies, but then you run a soaking wet patch through the bore and let it stand for 15 minutes or so, then brush and use dry patches. If after that another solvent-soaked patch comes out green, you repeat the soaking, as many times as necessary to remove the green. Or you get bored, whichever comes first.
HTH!
PS -- it's generally unnecessary to clean the bore of a .22 rimfire. Occasionally blow the scunge out of the action with the brake cleaner, run a dry Boresnake through the bore to sop up any leftovers, and call it good.
And on the subject of economy, don't forget you can make your own very effective cleaner/lube - Ed's Red:
http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9
Lone_Gunman
Member
Overcleaning the bore has ruined more rifles than shooting ever has. The bore is the part of your rifle that needs to be cleaned the least.
"However, for relatively inexpensive firearms such as you have, any decent cleaning kit should be fine."
I would not consider any firearm inexpensive and not worth a good cleaning kit.
That said, I have had many different cleaning kits over the years, some home made, some store bought multi ones and caliber specific ones, they all do the job pretty good. It just depends on if you like easy storage, or easy carry options or want a separate ones for each rifle. Buy a small one and go from there to see what you really like.
I would not consider any firearm inexpensive and not worth a good cleaning kit.
That said, I have had many different cleaning kits over the years, some home made, some store bought multi ones and caliber specific ones, they all do the job pretty good. It just depends on if you like easy storage, or easy carry options or want a separate ones for each rifle. Buy a small one and go from there to see what you really like.
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