Switching 550B from .45 to 9mm (and back)

[FJC]

I have a 550B that I've had set up for .45ACP for years. I'm looking to also reload 9mm in bulk now (I know I won't save much, but I want to anyway).

I'm looking to make switching back and forth as easy as possible.

I've heard some people say they use the Quick Change kit with an extra powder measure, but that switching out the priming system is too much trouble -so they resize 9mm on a single-stage press, hand-prime, then use the 550B starting at station 2 onward. Any comments on this strategy, or is swapping out the priming parts to go from large to small primers (and back) not all that difficult?

I currently plan to order:

1) Caliber Conversion Kit 9mm
2) Deluxe Quick-Change kit (Toolhead, Powder Measure, Powder die, stand)
3) Locking rings (for my existing 9mm RCBS dies and Lee Factory Crimp die)
4) small pistol primer pickup tubes (if I opt to change out the priming system).

Thanks, any insight welcome. I can see why some people opt to just buy a second 550B set up for smaller calibers.

 

[mc223]

I use a 550B also and caliber switching is easy with a Quick change kit. Just switch the primer cup assembly and the primer tube in the feeder. case plate and buttons and slide in the die plate with powder die and powder measure and the appropriate dies. set seater and sizer and crimper and get to it.
Sounds like your order is ready and if you forget any thing the folks at Dillon will assist an any way they can. And don't forget the No BS warranty. If you have had any problems they will help with that too.

 

[Souris]

I swap my 550b from .38/.357 Mag to .45 ACP when ever I need to. I have an extra tool head but no extra powder measure. To me it isn't really a big deal to swap toolheads, shell plate and primer mechanisms. When I sit down to do either caliber I am going to be doing several hundred rounds of the caliber I set up for.

 

[Johnny Guest]

Switching out priming system

Yes, it's a pain to do it, but certainly worthwhile if you're going to load as many as 100 rounds in the other primer size. One of the glories of a progressive press is that you put the case into the shellholder (shell plate) only ONCE, and get a complete round after four handle strokes. If you deprime/size/reprime separately, you place the empty case in a shellholder, size and deprime. Then you move the case to a separate priming appliance (I like the RCBS Autoprime) for repriming. THEN you remove the primed, sized, case and put it into the shell plate on the 550B. No matter that you perform no task at station 1, you STILL need four handle strokes to get the expansion, charging, seating, and crimping done.

The vast majority of my loading uses large primers (.45 ACP, .45 Auto Rim, .45 Colt, .44 Spl, .44 Mag, .41 Mag, .308. .30-06.) I wait until I simply can't hold out any longer, then change the priming system, and try to get a year's worth of small primer loading at once. Since I bought Square Deal B in .38 Spl, I do my .38 and .357 loading on that, and seldom to make the change on my 550B.

Anyway, you should have gotten the small priming setup with the press, as well as a small primer magazine tube and at least one tube. While you're ordering, I suggest you get at least three small primer tubes, just so you don't have to break rhythm once you get started.

What I do is to remove ONLY the large primer ram and cup, being careful not to let the stout little spring get away from me. I do NOT remove the primer slide. It takes a bit of doing to reassemble with the small primer ram and cup, holding them down against the spring while I tighten the Allen screw back in place. Helps to have an assistant, because it's a three-handed job. I do pretty well with a wide-jawed pair of Vise Grip pliers, 40 or 50 choice cuss words, and five or ten minutes of intense effort. I believe this is still quicker than removing the mounting for the entire primer slide, replacing the assembly, and readjusting the whole thing.

I can only suggest you try it both ways, replacing the entire slide assembly, and doing it my way. You may be far more dextrous than I am, in which case, huzzah and I'm sincerely happy for you.

Writing the above, I am reminded that I'm down to maybe 400 rounds of 9x19mm practice ammo, and my 9mm pistols are being seriously neglected. I have maybe 5,000 cases and around 3,000 115 gr FMJ bullets. Oh, yeah - - There's abundant components for .223, .30 Carbine, .380 ACP, and a set of .32 ACP dies I've never used. I simply dread loading those calibers.

Best of luck to you
Johnny

 

[SASS#23149]

Sizing and priminng off of my dillon would be just plain crazy.I've not seen a 'big hassle' in switching primer setups.YOu have some other things to switch anyway so what is the big deal.?
Just buy more brass and bullets and switch less often,eh?

 

[Jim Watson]

I just bought a primer feed housing and shield, I will put in the small tube and make up a bar with small cup so I change primer size by swapping assemblies not parts.

 

[huntershooter]

Takes me four minutes to change from Large to Small primer assembly.

 

[HSMITH]

I am double extra triple lazy, I bought another 550B. I have small primer quick change kits set up for one machine and the large primer stuff set up for the second machine. It takes me literally less than a minute to be loading a new caliber even if it is another primer size and not currently set up on either machine

Johnny, I hear you about the small bullet stuff, the smaller the bullet the less I like to reload them. 380 is bad, but 32 auto is near torture. I was planning to make the best of a bad situation the last time I loaded 32, I was going to load 1000 rounds in one session. I think I invented some new cuss words :banghead: Those calibers are best loaded in moderation when everything else is done.....

 

[Chuck R.]

It probably takes me about 5 minutes more to convert my 550 from large to small primers, not really a big deal. For my primary calibers, .45ACP, .45 Colt, and .357, I usually load in batches of 1000 or more, so I end up swapping out primer feeds once or twice a year. For the “other stuff” I just make sure to load it when the machine is set up for that primer size.

I’m looking at buying a 650 setup for .45ACP this summer. I’m now loading for two, a friend of mine does the casting/lubing, and I do the loading. He’s some kind of bullet casting fiend, and I’m having trouble keeping up.

I agree with HSMITH, the only small thing I load for is .380, and I really don’t enjoy it that much. I load just enough for a few practice sessions with my SIG 230, and no more.

Chuck

 

[FJC]

Thanks all, I think I'll buy the items I listed, and lay in a good supply of primers and bullets, get 1000 or so cases cleaned up, and try to do a good huge batch of 9mm all at once.

 

[Johnny Guest]

REALLY had to grin at this - -

Johnny, I hear you about the small bullet stuff, the smaller the bullet the less I like to reload them. 380 is bad, but 32 auto is near torture. I was planning to make the best of a bad situation the last time I loaded 32, I was going to load 1000 rounds in one session. I think I invented some new cuss words

HS, I know you from the board as a handloader of wide experience and I respect your judgement. But you may not know how true your statement really is. I'm one of the very few people I know who loads .25 ACP. Now, this is a trick. Near impossible to use a powder measure for charges like 1.1 gr. of Bullseye, though I recall that Dillon offers a extra tiny charge bar for the purpose. I had to improvise a small neck insert for a dedicated powder funnel.

It's difficult gathering up the .25 empties, especially on a range where there's a lot of .22 LR fired. I'm ham handed enough so I fumble the little cases and teensy bullets. I've pinched blood blisters on two fingers. In truth, it's been several years since I loaded any .25 ACP, though I still have the dies and a bunch of components. I swapped off most of my .25 pistols, though I keep one, mostly for old times' sake.

One of these days, I'll own a second RL550B . . . .

Best,
Johnny

 

[FJC]

By the way, for those really small calibers, I've found the best powder funnels are those little plastic inserts that the doctor snaps on their light to look into your ear...

Well I've ordered all that equipment, and two 4-packs of primer pickup tubes. Now to lay in a supply of bullets, powder, and primers, and start cranking!

 

[loadedround]

I did it the HSmith way and bought a second Dillon 550B. I load six pistol calibers on a regular basis and to me changing the primer feed assembly is one big PIA!

 

[P0832177]

I solved the 550 problem, a local purveyor of Dillon stuff had the assembly sans the guts so I took my small guts and set up the small primer switch over kit. Now I have one set for small primers and one for large. It takes a few short minutes swap from large to small or vice versa!

 

[FJC]

Thanks for all the help everyone, I think I'll be good to go once I fine where that darned small primer magazine tube went...

 

[TonyT]

FJC,
Where in Michigan are you located? I am in the Kalamazoo area.
I find that it takes less than 10 minutes to change over the primer assemblies and shellholder. Purchasing a second powder measure is a good idea as you save the most time by not readjusting the powder drop.

 

[FJC]

I'm over East of you, in Canton (next to Ann Arbor).

Yes, I definitely want to avoid having to switch powders and readjust, so ordered the Deluxe Quick Change kit that includes the powder measure.

So, once I get the toolhead set up and dies adjusted, to change calibers I should only have to:

1) Disconnect the bar from the powder measure
2) Change the toolhead
3) Changed the shellplate holder
4) Change the primer magazine tube
5) Change the primer bar
6) make sure the powder throw is what it's supposed to be
7) Start cranking.

Gotta say, though, that by the time I ordered all this stuff (Deluxe Quick Change kit, Caliber Conversion) it was $175. Very tempting to pop for the difference and just get a whole new 550B set up for 9mm, and have both. Then again, I'd want another roller handle, and strong mount, and bullet tray...

 

[FJC]

Woohoo, all the new goodies showed up this morning. Hopefully I'll get some time to play with it and get everything set up later today.

 

[redneck2]

Unless I'm missing something the "trick" to adjusting the primer ram is to mount the assembly loosely with the allen screws. Push the ram handle forward into the prime position and the primer anvil will self center in the shell plate. Hold the handle forward while you tighten the screws. My press came with some kind of goofy steel adjustment thing. I messed with it for maybe 20 minutes and figured out the above method, which is WAY faster.

I have the full quick change assemblies for 5 different calibers plus blank heads for 4 more. I can swap calibers (including primer feed) in maybe 3-5 minutes

I'd strongly suggest getting the whole quick change assembly. I tried to get along for several years swapping the powder measure. You have to pour out the powder and clean out what's left, maybe swap powder bars, change the powder funnel, re-adjust the powder funnel, and re-adjust the powder throw. Takes a minimum of 20 minutes, and sometimes up to 40.

I snap in a tool head, swap the shell plate (and maybe primer feed if necessary), and I'm ready. I think there's a lot less possibility of problems because I don't have to re-adjust or change anything related to powder charge or bullet seating. I used to dread changing all that stuff and ended up not shooting some of my guns because it was too much trouble to change set-ups. Piece of cake now

 

[oscar]

I load as many small primer or large primer rounds as I can before I switch. Instead of buying a new powder measure, just buy the powder bar and switch that out. Easier and cheaper.

 

[OhioPaints]

Very interesting conversation! Some find it quick and easy to change the primer assembly, others find it a real PITA! LOL (I'm in the later category, I hate it!)

I've been watching ebay for a second 550. Although I might consider a Square deal for a dedicated caliber.

I know...I'm impatient and lazy ;-) Maybe I'll be sensible and stick to a single machine.

Typically I load 1-2K for any caliber but it would be nice to have the machine setup to try different loads or powders.

Ken

 

[redneck2]

Instead of buying a new powder measure, just buy the powder bar and switch that out. Easier and cheaper.

I did it for years because it was cheaper. It sure isn't easier.

I pull 2 pins, slide the new head in, and I'm ready. Without the shell plate or primer feed, I can change calibers in 10 seconds. If you change charge bars you still have to fiddle around weighing charges and adjusting the charge bar. Shell plate takes a minute or so, primer feed a couple minutes

 

[FJC]

Ok, my press is now set up for 9mm.

Whew.

Changing the shellplate - easy. Took me a couple minutes - now that I'm a "pro" at it, that'll probably take a minute or less next time.

Changing the primer assembly - easy. I didn't have to adjust it at all once swapped, it lined up just perfect.

Changing the die plate - super easy.

The only hassle I had tonight was setting up all the dies. Resizing die, seating, crimp were all a piece of cake - it's that dang belling die/powder drop that's a royal pain. Took me like 20 tries of trial-and-error to get it set right (I'd think I'd have it just right, then I'd tighten the screws holding on the powder measure and it'd be belling too much, etc).

But it's all set now. Took very little time to get the powder measure adjusted for one of my old favorite 9mm loads (5.3gr VV N340 with a 124gr jacketed). Cranked out 30 rounds or so that I'll test in my pistols. Once I'm sure all is well, I can get cranking on a couple thousand.

Seems like I'm having to go slower on these, though - the bullet keeps wanting to tip when I place it on the case, which then ruins the case if I don't catch it before I pull the handle. Perhaps I need a little more bell on the case mouth, though I think there's plenty (certainly as much as I used to do when I reloaded 9mm via a single stage Rockchucker).

Also, my 5.3gr fills the case up pretty well, leaving only around a quarter inch between the case top and the top of the powder charge. I like that, as there's no way to get a double charge in there - the issue I'm having is that as I advance the shellplate, when it clicks into the next station it shakes the case and knocks a few granules of powder out. If I advance it slowly, that doesn't happen, but it slows down my progress. When doing .45ACP I don't run into this, as I'm using more of a flake powder (Clays) and there's more room in the case. Perhaps I need to loosen the shellplate a bit so there's less of a click when advancing.

 

[redneck2]

The only hassle I had tonight was setting up all the dies. Resizing die, seating, crimp were all a piece of cake - it's that dang belling die/powder drop that's a royal pain. Took me like 20 tries of trial-and-error to get it set right (I'd think I'd have it just right, then I'd tighten the screws holding on the powder measure and it'd be belling too much, etc).

That's why you get the quick change kit. You may never have to adjust the dies again if you don't change loads.

Next time you're reloading, pull the pins and slide the head out. Now slide it back in. That's all I do to change dies and powder. For the life of me, I can't understand how anyone would think messing with the charge bar would be faster or easier

Even if you don't get the entire quick change kit, at least get extra heads. They're only a few dollars. You still have to swap the measure, but you can leave all the dies and powder funnel housing set (assuming you also have an extra funnel housing). I use tool heads without the measure for rifle that I load one at a time and measure every charge.

then I'd tighten the screws holding on the powder measure and it'd be belling too much

You're making yourself way too much trouble chief. Set up your measure so it's ready to go with the funnel too high to bell. Back off the two allen screws just barely enough that the measure will turn but is still kinda snug. You can twist the measure like a wrench to screw the powder funnel housing down (you can only turn it about 1/16th turn and you have to take another bite). If the funnel housing tries to screw back out, just stick your finger against the threads between the bottom of the powder measure and the tool head.

Run it down a little and stroke the ram again. If it's not belling enough, run it down some more. Sounds complicated, but it's actually real quick. Once the funnel is adjusted, lock the screws. If you get tool heads (very stongly advised) you should only have to do this once.

Actually, you can put a fired case in the powder fill station, run the ram to the top, and turn the funnel down until it contacts the case. Back off the ram just a little and run the funnel down to give enough bell. It just takes a few minutes

 

[FJC]

I was actually doing something like that. I'd get it to be just right, then I'd retighten the screws that secure the powder measure, and it would be belling too much. Odd, but it bells a different amount when those screws are loose...