I was looking at the shotgun rack the other day, and staring me right in the face was a Stevens 311. I have been thinking about one of these for a while. I love the looks. Now, how do I check to see if it is good, working condition and I am not getting a junker. It is 250 dollars and really nice looking. Thank you
SxS Checkout
- Thread starter Kukri
- Start date
- Status
Jagermeister
Moderator In Memoriam
kurki:
The Stevens 311 us a great utilitarian shotgun. The only way to check the safety and reliability of the gun is to have a reliable gun smith checkt it.
Should you decide to buy it, I can provide you with the complete disassem of this gun w/photos.
JM
The Stevens 311 us a great utilitarian shotgun. The only way to check the safety and reliability of the gun is to have a reliable gun smith checkt it.
Should you decide to buy it, I can provide you with the complete disassem of this gun w/photos.
JM
Jagermeister
Moderator In Memoriam
Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
The Savage/Stevens 311 is a good reliable doublegun. Okiecruffler can give better input but here's a few things to look for....
First, of course, ensure that it's empty.
Look it over from bow to stern for stuff like dings and rust. Shake it a bit and see if you hear anything moving around.Run a finger into the chambers and see if there's roughness.
Check the muzzle and see if the crown is dinged, and if there's any sign of the barrels having been hacksawed.
Hold the thing up to the light and look at the spot where the action and barrels meet at the standing breech. Any light coming through can indicate a headspace prob. If the thing will close with a layer or two of scotch tape on the face of the breech, there IS a headspace prob.Also look for tiny cracks where the standing breech and the water table meet.
Dismount the barrels. Hang them by the lug and tap them with a pencil or other non marring semi hard object. If they ring like a bell, all's well. A dull thud means they're separating. Pass on anything that thuds, too expensive to fix.
Look at the standing breech and see if there's any peening around the firing pin holes. A little isn't that bad, but if it's all on one side it can indicate ignition probs.
Early 311s may have had 2 9/16" chambers.
HTH...
First, of course, ensure that it's empty.
Look it over from bow to stern for stuff like dings and rust. Shake it a bit and see if you hear anything moving around.Run a finger into the chambers and see if there's roughness.
Check the muzzle and see if the crown is dinged, and if there's any sign of the barrels having been hacksawed.
Hold the thing up to the light and look at the spot where the action and barrels meet at the standing breech. Any light coming through can indicate a headspace prob. If the thing will close with a layer or two of scotch tape on the face of the breech, there IS a headspace prob.Also look for tiny cracks where the standing breech and the water table meet.
Dismount the barrels. Hang them by the lug and tap them with a pencil or other non marring semi hard object. If they ring like a bell, all's well. A dull thud means they're separating. Pass on anything that thuds, too expensive to fix.
Look at the standing breech and see if there's any peening around the firing pin holes. A little isn't that bad, but if it's all on one side it can indicate ignition probs.
Early 311s may have had 2 9/16" chambers.
HTH...
Okiecruffler
Member
As always, Dave is the guru. I wish I had known about the ringing barrel trick, it would have saved me from the one in my collection now that is just a wall hanger.
The only thing I can add is buy a set of snap caps with brass "primers" and try them in the gun. If you don't get nice clean indentions you may be looking at bad firing pins which aren't uncommon. From what I understand, they aren't that hard to replace, but I haven't tried it yet.
I'm down to eight 311's now since I sold one last month to buy a new bass speaker cabinet. Still not completely sure it was the right thing to do, but my bass sure sounds good now. I'll be happy if I can find a .410 in good shape, and some form of Savage/Stevens 10ga. $250 is about the norm, which makes them great bargins when you consider the only new dbls close to that are Russian or S. American.
The only thing I can add is buy a set of snap caps with brass "primers" and try them in the gun. If you don't get nice clean indentions you may be looking at bad firing pins which aren't uncommon. From what I understand, they aren't that hard to replace, but I haven't tried it yet.
I'm down to eight 311's now since I sold one last month to buy a new bass speaker cabinet. Still not completely sure it was the right thing to do, but my bass sure sounds good now. I'll be happy if I can find a .410 in good shape, and some form of Savage/Stevens 10ga. $250 is about the norm, which makes them great bargins when you consider the only new dbls close to that are Russian or S. American.
Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
Extractors only, TTBOMK.
Parts are and will be available from Numrich, etc. These were made for a long time and sold well.
Forster type slugs will do OK from these. Solid round balls are kinda iffy.
Parts are and will be available from Numrich, etc. These were made for a long time and sold well.
Forster type slugs will do OK from these. Solid round balls are kinda iffy.
Okiecruffler
Member
I've shot some Fosters thru a couple of mine, they'll work, meaning they'll come out the end of the barrel. But if your looking for a deer gun, look elsewhere. The accuracy just isn't there.
dandean316
Member
.410
I haven't seen too many of the .410's around here, but when I bought mine out of the local paper, the guy clamied he got over 20 calls the morning the paper came out. He probably did, but since I was only a couple minutes away and told him I'd pay his asking price in cash I got 1st dibs. I guess I happened to call before he returned all the other messages.
Stevens are good, cheap, reliable guns. I was thinking of picking up the "collection" (12,16,20, .410). Heck, a guy could buy all of them for the same price as a new O/U.
Are the .410's kind of rare? That Gun Trader book doesn't list a higher price for the .410 over the 12, but I saw prices of $500-600 on the online auctions sites.
I haven't seen too many of the .410's around here, but when I bought mine out of the local paper, the guy clamied he got over 20 calls the morning the paper came out. He probably did, but since I was only a couple minutes away and told him I'd pay his asking price in cash I got 1st dibs. I guess I happened to call before he returned all the other messages.
Stevens are good, cheap, reliable guns. I was thinking of picking up the "collection" (12,16,20, .410). Heck, a guy could buy all of them for the same price as a new O/U.
Okiecruffler
Member
I'm not sure what the deal is with the .410's
I suspect they just didn't make as many of them. I can pick up 12's and 20's all day long for around $250, 16's are a little harder to find, and run around $300. But those .410's start around $450 and just go up. I've had my eye on one for $200 for awhile now, but it needs new springs and I'm not sure if I'm ready to tackle that job. There are also some single trigger Tenite out there that pull down a little more cash, but who wants a dbl with only one trigger? How would you fire the other barrel?
I suspect they just didn't make as many of them. I can pick up 12's and 20's all day long for around $250, 16's are a little harder to find, and run around $300. But those .410's start around $450 and just go up. I've had my eye on one for $200 for awhile now, but it needs new springs and I'm not sure if I'm ready to tackle that job. There are also some single trigger Tenite out there that pull down a little more cash, but who wants a dbl with only one trigger? How would you fire the other barrel?
dandean316
Member
When I first started with doubles, I didn't like the 2 triggers. Now, I see no other way.
Do the Stevens 311 have different frames for each gun? I mean, is the .410 on a real .410 frame? The reason I ask is I grew up shooting a Marlin .410 single shot and the Stevens frame seems a lot larger. I know a lot of the .410 and 28's now are just simply on 20 ga frames. That's what made me consider the Ruger Red label 28 ga since its on a real 28 ga frame.
By the way - are there any reasonably priced 28 ga. sxs out there, like the Stevens models? you know, American made, 2 triggers, no frills.
Sorry if I hijacked this thread.
Do the Stevens 311 have different frames for each gun? I mean, is the .410 on a real .410 frame? The reason I ask is I grew up shooting a Marlin .410 single shot and the Stevens frame seems a lot larger. I know a lot of the .410 and 28's now are just simply on 20 ga frames. That's what made me consider the Ruger Red label 28 ga since its on a real 28 ga frame.
By the way - are there any reasonably priced 28 ga. sxs out there, like the Stevens models? you know, American made, 2 triggers, no frills.
Sorry if I hijacked this thread.
Well, thank you everybody for the helpful comments. I got the Stevens yesterday. It looks pretty good and it has the Tenite stock. I thought I was having light strikes on the right chamber, but it remedied itself, so I am happy. I really like it and I got it for 270 with tax. When I get a chance to shoot it, I will post a picture and results. It is a great little gun in 12.
C.R.Sam
Moderator Emeritus
Kinda late but....
What Dave said about checkout plus.
With gun assembled and closed;
forearm off.
Drop the gun horizontally on a pillow in a quiet room.
If you hear a click it means the pivot pin and/or latchwork is worn.
Sam
What Dave said about checkout plus.
With gun assembled and closed;
forearm off.
Drop the gun horizontally on a pillow in a quiet room.
If you hear a click it means the pivot pin and/or latchwork is worn.
Sam
- Status
