Taper Crimping Revolver Rounds

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GunAdmirer

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I have become a fan of plated bullets. They're clean, accurate and about the same price as lead unless you cast your own.

I would like to taper crimp some light and midrange 38/357 loads. Can I taper crimp with a RCBS roll crimp die by adjusting it just short of the roll crimp? Or would I be better off purchasing a separate taper crimp die? Will the brass need to be trimmed back a little if a taper crimp is used rather than a roll?

I know about the possibility of unseating bullets from recoil in a revolver. I will only load light and midrange loads.
 
If you have a set of 9mm dies, you can taper crimp your .38 Specials with that. I tried that with plated bullets and (much to my surprise) found that they were more accurate with a light roll crimp that just barely bites into the copper plating instead of a moderate taper crimp.
 
Just give them a light (kiss) with your roll crimp seating die. You'll be fine as long as you don't break the copper and expose the lead core.
 
The brass must be trimmed to the same length to roll crimp. Then
Just give them a light (kiss) with your roll crimp seating die. You'll be fine as long as you don't break the copper and expose the lead core.
 
I trim all my revolver brass, because it gives a more uniform crimp with either roll or taper crimps.

I shoot a lot of plated bullets in revolvers and use Redding, RCBS, C&H, & Lee seaters (with built in taper crimp), or taper crimp only dies. I am sure a slight roll crimp would work (if you trim), but the taper crimp die is much more forgiving and trim length is not nearly as critical. My .45 Colt taper crimp die is an RCBS .45 ACP seater with the seater plug removed. I use the RCBS .45 Colt seater to do roll crimps. Good neck tension is needed as always.

Assuming you have good neck tension, and you are shooting light to medium loads, you should not have a problem with bullets backing out of the cases.
 
I already have a RCBS 9mm taper crimp die. It would be nice if I didn't need to buy another die.
That will work. You shouldn't even have to disturb your 9mm lockring; there's enough difference in height between 9mm and .38SPL that you can add a 2nd lower locking ring to crimp .38's or .357's, take it off to go back to 9mm and your 9mm adjustment is still set.

But when I experimented with it, the taper crimp looked pretty, however the roll crimp (even with no cannelure) was more accurate.
 
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