Taurus 82 lock up

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by 76shuvlinoff, Jan 21, 2018.

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  1. 76shuvlinoff

    76shuvlinoff Member

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    Hello,
    I have a beater of a Taurus 82, vintage unknown but I believe we a talking about an "old style" version. This gun is not worth much and it's more of a plaything. It was spitting a little lead from what I believe was a sloppy lock up. The only other revolver I have on hand for comparison is a newish Ruger sp101 that locks up tight.
    The forcing cone and gap on the 82 appear to be good although I am not sure what the acceptable gap should be . I replaced the cylinder lock and the lock up is much better but of course I would like it as better as possible. Wondering if it would be feasible or foolish to replace the cylinder and yoke if I can locate them. The cylinder is out of stock at Numrich. Cosmetically mismatched parts do not concern me, I can deal with that later. Right now I am working on function.

    Thanks
    Mark
     
  2. Col. Harrumph

    Col. Harrumph Member

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    Not sure what you mean by "lock up." Are you describing the swing-out cylinder latch when closed up for shooting? Or how well the charge holes line up with the forcing cone? If the latter, that's a timing issue. To test, use a fingertip to apply a light drag to the cylinder while thumb cocking it (single action). The cylinder stop should pop up and latch the cylinder before the hammer reaches full cock. Do the same test while slowly pulling the trigger through a double action shot.

    If the cylinder latches at the right time but isn't lined up with the barrel, I guess you really will need a new cylinder. But if the cylinder still has room to rotate when the hammer reaches full cock, try replacing the hand.
     
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  3. 4v50 Gary

    4v50 Gary Moderator Staff Member

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    Side spitting of lead can be the barrel/cylinder not ranging (determined by the range rod) or either forcing cone needs to be opened or the barrel cylinder gap is too big. We stretched the yoke to close the gap.
     
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  4. 76shuvlinoff

    76shuvlinoff Member

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    My terminology is obviously lacking. When I apply the test Col Harrumph described the cylinder still has a degree or two to turn before the cylinder stop is actually engaged with the cylinder. It is more obvious when cocking the hammer manually than it is when dry firing DA.

    I've got feeler gauges around here somewhere. What would be the acceptable cylinder to barrel gap?

    edit to add: I am trying to find the date of manufacture. The Taurus website feature for that returns nothing, I guess it's too old.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2018
  5. BBBBill

    BBBBill Member

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    You need to manage headspace and end shake at the same time you mess with cylinder to barrel gap. They are interrelated. These are generic dimensions, but will be about the same for most revolver brands. Set headspace at .060"-.066" and end shake at .002". Cylinder to barrel gap will then be whatever it is. Acceptable gap is generally around .004"-.006" although I've examined many revolvers, even new fresh-outa-the-box S&Ws, with over .010". The cure for excessive gap is to pull the barrel, cut the shoulder and set the barrel back one full turn, then face off the breach end to set gap. Finally recut the forcing cone.

    As for timing the lockup a thicker hand (aka pawl) can be used or you can heat and bend you present one. I have a tool made by Jack Gutridge years ago that I use to heat an bend hands to correct for wear. It also is used to swage individual ratchet pads to correct for individual chamber timing issues. Not sure what you can use in lieu of that tool, but something to look at while you are chasing down the gremlins.

    It is no S&W, but is similar enough that understanding of one will allow you to intuit any differences on the other.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2018
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