243winxb
Member
http://s338.photobucket.com/user/joe1944usa/media/40shots.jpg.html
Barrels can look really bad, but still produce normal accuracy. Cleaning was normal after this test.
Tell me what you know about leading.
- Thread starter Stationary Smell
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Barrels can look really bad, but still produce normal accuracy. Cleaning was normal after this test.
Hondo 60
Member
Maybe.
It depends on the cause of leading.
Using an alloy that's too soft is one unlikely cause of leading.
Bullet Fit can be more of a cause.
Have you slugged your barrel?
That's the 1st place to start.
You say you have leading, but fail to show a pic, or describe how much.
A tiny bit is nothing to worry about.
A few strokes with a mop or brush with a strand or two from a copper chore boy & it's clean as a whistle
bluetopper
Member
I've been shooting cast bullets for decades and never slugged a barrel in my life. My barrels stay shiny clean. All that ever go in my barrels are a nylon brush, diesel soaked patches and cast lead bullets.
Useing experience and common sense helps more than anything avoiding leading. Stay away from hot burning Titegroup powder.
Useing experience and common sense helps more than anything avoiding leading. Stay away from hot burning Titegroup powder.
OP
OP
Stationary Smell
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I'll load some more rounds and will get out shooting some time this week. The barrel on my sig p938 measured .357 after slugging it, my walther p99c measured .356. Ill try these rounds through my walther since they dropped from the die at .357 (and we're ran through a .358 sizer to make sure none of them were oblong and too large). What is a decent sample amount, 10 rounds? I want to try some, check how much leading I have, clean my gun, then try some more loads to hopefully find one that a load that gas reduced leading or none. The leading was through the whole barrel on my sig... but after slugging it sounds like it needs a larger diameter bullet. I do have a 358-105 semi wad cutter die that I haven't used yet, might be a good time to try it out.
earplug
Member
PC is so nice. Just back from a indoor USPSA match. 9MM is the dominate round used. Many none casters are using commercially available powder coated bullets. Being able to duplicate the same bullet with home cast bullets has its rewards.
Pistol caliber carbine is a new class in USPSA. Powder Coated bullets work well with the longer bore length and higher velocity.
I used titegroup with out issue.
Pistol caliber carbine is a new class in USPSA. Powder Coated bullets work well with the longer bore length and higher velocity.
I used titegroup with out issue.
OP
OP
Stationary Smell
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I'll keep that in mind... I am curious how much more it costs per bullet to powder coat them. Is it like a couple cents? A big part of the reason I began casting bullets was because it is so cheap.
res45
Member
Smoke over at Castboolits sells powder for PCing bullets I believer the going rate is $18 per lb. shipped or you can split the lb. into 3 different 1/3 lb. colors for the same price. I've already PC'ed a couple thousand bullets and have hardly made a dent in my pound of powder so it goes a long way.
As to cast bullets in the 9mm,I have two handguns in 9mm one has a .357 groove bore the other has a .355" groove bore so groove diameters can vary. Size your bullets .001 to .002" over groove dia. use a alloy such as wheel weights or a Lyman #2 or equivalent and a good lube or PC them. When applying the taper crimp just apply enough so that you remove the taper ie straighten out the case mouth. Do the plunk test to test your loaded rd. in your pistols chamber. http://www.shootingtimes.com/reloading/reloading-tips-the-plunk-test/
I just recently purchased a 4 banger NOE .358 dia. 124 gr. TC mold for NOE have 50 test loads loaded up to shoot sometime this week in my CANIK TP9SA which has the .355" groove bore bullets are cast from ACWW lubed with Lars 2500+ and sized to .357" they drop right in the chamber and fall right out when the barrel is inverted. I also have some that are PC'ed and gas checked as well all loads are using 5.0 grs. of Power Pistol. When i get to shoot these loads I will report back with targets,chrono data etc.
RealGun
Member
Velocity and pressure both correlate to the leading issue. Can there be any refuting that the harder bullets require a certain pressure level to seal the bore, more so than softer alloys? A bevel base compounds the problem.
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243winxb
Member
Realgun
Soft alloys (near pure) may produce bullet stripping as it travels down the barrel and bullet slump, along with feeding problems in auto pistols. All will hurt accuracy.
This.
Soft alloys (near pure) may produce bullet stripping as it travels down the barrel and bullet slump, along with feeding problems in auto pistols. All will hurt accuracy.
Arkansas Paul
Member
I was making an observation to avoid confusion for the OP.
Wasn't trying to call you out. Just quoted your post because it mentioned .356.
RealGun
Member
I am confused. Nothing I posted is incorrect, yet there has to be an instructive response each time??
243winxb
Member
bullseye308
Member
You can powder coat on the cheap and see how it works for you. I do and like it so far. Go to goodwill and get a $5 toaster oven, go to harbor freight and get a $5 jar of red powder coat powder, go to Walmart and get a $5 jar of black air soft bb's, look in the cabinets for a plastic glad bowl with lid and a #5 in a triangle on the bottom and grab a spoon. Oops, grab a roll of non stick aluminum foil from Walmart while you are there.
Dump enough bb's to cover the bottom of the bowl then 2 handfuls of bullets in and a large spoonful of powder. Snap on the lid and while holding the lid on shake the heck out of it for 2 minutes or so. Put the foil on the tray for the oven and coat your fingers in powder and grab the bullets, stand them up on the foil, and put them in a preheated oven at 400* for about 20 minutes. Once done remove and let them cool, load and shoot.
You can use gloves or forceps or needle nosed pliers or whatever to get the bullets out of the powder and onto the tray if you don't want to get your fingers dirty.
I posted too fast or too slow. You quoted me and replied too slow can be a problem too. Well, yes, I mentioned that.
Then you quoted 243winxb, and he responded. Why wouldn't he respond?
IMHO, your posts are incomplete and require either questions for clarity or notations to add to them for clarity. While they may not be wrong, they are not, as posted, necessarily "correct" either. Some of your short blanket statements confuse the issue IMHO.
So, I am confused as well.
earplug
Member
Cast bullet, rule of thumb, leave the bullet as large as possible as long as it chambers, its good. Less sizing means less work, less chance of deformation. Seals bore better. I use .358 in my two 9MM barrels. I suspect that the 9MM is one of the hardest rounds to work up good cast bullets with due to the tapered case, small capacity, high pressure 35001 standard to 38000 for P+.
Thats the same pressure the .357 MAG is rated for. We had few if any issues shooting plan base cast wheel weight bullets from S&W revolvers. And there was little need to push a revolver round to operate the action.
Thats the same pressure the .357 MAG is rated for. We had few if any issues shooting plan base cast wheel weight bullets from S&W revolvers. And there was little need to push a revolver round to operate the action.
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