Testing, Testing . . . My Pedersoli Sharps Buffalo Rifle now has a historically semi-authentic fully

JimGnitecki

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Testing, Testing . . . My Pedersoli Sharps Buffalo Rifle now has a historically semi-authentic fully length (35”) telescopic scope!


Introduction

In a previous posting, I mentioned that I am not only getting on a bit in age, but I also have the beginnings of macular degeneration in my eyes, so open sights no longer work well for me at long shooting distances. I need both strong lighting and magnification.

I recently bought a Pedersoli Sharps replica “buffalo rifle”, which of course is best used for either Black Powder Cartridge Rifle (“BPCR”) shooting, or Cowboy Action Shooting (“CAS”) side matches. I am not a fan of black powder, but I love CAS, AND I now am a member of a club that has not only a distinct CAS array of short ranges, but also both 200 yard and 600 yard ranges that we can hold side matches on!

I did a a pretty thorough job of researching both long range ladder tang sights with tunnel front sight combinations, and semi-authentic period telescopic sight systems. I concluded that given my eye situation, the period-correct telescopic sight system would be a better solution for me, given the need for both maximizing available light and getting a magnified image.

Mounting a scope on a Sharps replica rifle might sound “incorrect” to many shooters, but Mike Venturino and other shooting writers and researchers have proven that about 25% of all the original Sharps rifles produced left the factory with a telescopic sight system. So, mounting a scope on a Sharps replica is perfectly “authentic”, provided that the scope is reasonably semi-authentic in its basic operation, appearance, and materials.

In fact, The NRA added a scope category to BPCR back in the 1990s, when a good percentage of BPCR shooters were aging and realizing that they could no longer see well enough to shoot long range targets with open sights. The new scope category enabled them to continue enjoying shooting long range.

So, I decided to try one, and see how well it might work for me.


Sources

There are at least two obvious suppliers of semi-authentic historical full barrel length telescopic sight systems.

Montana Vintage Arms (”MVA”) produces a complete line of such scopes (along with other “vintage” scopes that lack the “full barrel length” feature of real “Old West” scopes), and their scopes, and the critically important scope mounting and adjustment systems, are both very well regarded, particularly by BPCR competitive shooters and champions. But their products are very costly even in the U.S., and I live in Canada. When the cost is converted into Canadian dollars, and the systems are shipped, dutied, and taxed, and my rifle cut, drilled, and tapped to accommodate installation, the actual cost for me would have been at LEAST $2000 CDN. As a retiree, that is simply not within my financial comfort range.

The other obvious supplier is Leatherwood Hi-Lux (Hereafter “Hi-Lux”), which is a modern descendant of the Leatherwood Company, which has a rich history within the shooting optics industry. Their offerings span a broader price and type range than MVA, even including reproductions of telescopic sights used by The Military in WW1 and WW2, and by hunters from the Old West time period through today.

Hi-Lux does not apparently have much penetration into BPCR and other competitive venues, primarily because they import both their optics and their mount/adjustor systems from China. Until as recently as last year, their optics were considered quite good (good resolution and very bright), but their mounting and adjustment systems were ok for hunters, but considered inadequate for serious competitive use.


Features of the nwest Hi-Lux Solution

That changed when Hi-Lux in late 2022 started selling a very upgraded CNC-made mounting and adjustment system, which includes several important features:

- It provides very fine and repeatable elevation adjustments at the rear mount

- It includes a front mount that separately provides windage adjustment

- It incorporates a “sliding” feature that alleviates recoil effects

- It uses existing front and rear sight dovetails on the rifle, rather than requiring drilling and tapping or machining of new dovetails.

- It uses ONE standard length of telescope (about 30”) but adds on a “sunshade” to the front of the scope that can be 3”, 5”, 7”, or 9” long.

Each of these features is a big deal.

The fine and repeatable elevation adjustment capabilities addressed the most serious objection to the previous mounting and adjustment system. Now you can adjust very finely with vernier capability, and can reliably reproduce specific settings, which is vital in a match.

The separation of elevation and windage adjustments between the rear and front mounts in theory makes it easier and less costly to manufacture the system to a higher quality standard. It also makes it easier and faster for a shooter to use the system (At least that is what I have found so far, as you will see later in this posting).

The “sliding” feature is a very important one for use on a buffalo rifle, because it allows the rifle to recoil, while the scope does NOT move with the rifle recoil. Rather, the scope “stays where it was” because the sliding mount system allows the rifle to recoil rearward while the mounts enable the scope to not move and not suffer the recoil loading that would otherwise impact both the scope and the mounts. This is hugely important on a buffalo rifle where the slow but very heavy bullets generate very large recoil forces. The sliding sstem is cleverly designed to maintain scope alignment despite the need to be able to slide, by using spring pressure to force the scope tube into exactly the same pre-firing position every time.

The use of existing front and rear sight dovetails on the rifle is a huge advantage for TWO reasons:

  1. It simplifies and greatly reduces the cost of installation (You can install this new system by yourself, without needing a gunsmith OR machine shop)
2. If you pick a rifle that has a “sight radius” between the 2 available dovetails that is “advantageous”, you can play finer adjustment capability versus broader MOA range (both elevation and windage). A longer sight mount radius gives you finer adjustments. A shorter radius gives you a broader MOA adjustment range. If your rifle has no usable dovetails for some reason, you can still take advantage of this dovetail spacing ability to chosoe wisely exactly what spacing you should do.

The multiple lengths of available thread-on “sunshades, which by the way are very inexpensive ($20 each in Canada), coupled with the sliding mounts, enable a shooter to adapt the telescope system to any rifle with a barrel length between 28 inches and 34 inches, regardless of where the dovetails might be and the length of pull desired for an individual stock and an individual shooter. The front mount attaches to the sunshade, not the scope tube that contains the actual optics.

It is important to mention at this point that all adjustments on actual Old West telescopic sights were EXTERNAL, not internal. Internal adjustments came much later because they require much more sophisticated production systems.

It is also important to mention that all actual Old West telescopic sights were full barrel length, for two practical reasons:

  1. With then current production technologies and capabilities, it was much easier to provide acceptable optics by making the telescope tube as long as possible
  1. Apparently, mirage off those large caliber buffalo rifle barrels was an issue, and extending the scope all the way to the muzzle alleviated that problem.
I realized that by combining the Hi-Lux full length scope with the newly available CNC sight with the sliding mounts, I could use the Pedersoli’s 21.5” sight radius to create a system where my adjustability in both elevation and windage could be made very fine and rather easy to see and change.


My specific Implementation

Here is what my Pedersoli Sharps Hunter model rifle now looks like:

Hi-Lux scope - 1 overall appearance - 1.jpeg


Note the way that the design and the use of brass fittings for the sunshade and the eyepiece, and the design shape of the front and rear mounts evoke “Old West” appearance.

Here’s a photo of the new CNC mount with its built-in sliding feature, its cleverly integrated vertical vernier scale, and its settable fine adjustment knob at the top (I have not yet “zeroed” my top knob since I am still doing ladder testing with different loads):


Hi-Lux scope - 2 The new CNC rear mount with sliding feature - 1.jpeg


Here’s a photo of the new front sight with the sliding mount and windage adjustment features:

Hi-Lux scope - 3 The new front sight mount with sliding and windage features - 1.jpeg


Note the utter simplicity of the windage adjustment knobs, and the clear linear scale. Note that you can get VERY fine windage adjustments, and get them very quickly, by regulating how far you rotate the knobs. In fact, the next photo shows where I am testing aftermarket knobs which are larger, and which have 15 built-in “tickmarks” via their serrated perimeters:

Hi-Lux scope - 4 The new front sight mount with non-OEM ticmarked windage adjustment screw - 1.jpeg

Yes, I still need to first AGE the plastic knob by applying a dulling agent to it, so it looks like metal.

With THIS set of knobs, I can get 15 more “virtual tickmarks” via the “hollows” between the tickmarks, giving me the ability to see 30 subdivisions within one rotation of the windage knob. This means I can resolve windage down to 0.15 MOA. By simply painting white lines at the 5th, 10th, and 15th tickmark, I can facilitate very rapid windage changes while still enjoying 0.15 MOA resolution! This is incredibly advantageous in competition matches like BPCR and CAS side matches where “click” adjustments are prohibited because they did not exist in the 1800s.

The next photo shows where the front of the scope sunshade would be if the rifle has been fired, and the scope has “remained where it was” while the rifle itself has moved rearward. The maximum available range of movement with my specific setup is about an inch and a half, but my 500g bullet handloads which generate a power factor of 500g x 1126 fps / 1000 = 563 (!!), use only a fraction of that available range.

Hi-Lux scope - 5 scope in recoiled sliding position - 1.jpeg


When considering installing a scope on a buffalo rifle, which has an exposed hammer, it is a good idea to ask the telescope supplier if the scope will CLEAR the hammer - regardless of the hammer’s current position (down, half cock, or full cock), and whether before, during or after firing, there might be any interference due to scope slide during recoil. Fortunately, I was assured that I would have hammer clearance all the time. here’s a photo:


Hi-Lux scope - 6 hammer clearance - 1.jpeg


Finally, here’s a crib sheet that I put together that tells me how to efficiently, accurately, and quickly use the scope adjustments:

Hi-Lux scope - 7 Crib sheet - 1.jpeg


The present and future

So, this is where my testing is currently at.

I am excited about the possibilities, but I need to assure msyelf that the external adjustment systems built into this setup are accurate, will hold their adjustments in the real world, and will be as quick and easy to use as it looks to me right now. I also hope the exposed and vulnerable position of the scope and its mounts won't make damage to the rifle more likely if I lay it down too hard or if it falls off a rear bag at the range,

Time will tell.

Jim G
 
I forgot to cover one topic: The "sliding" feature affects how much recoil you feel. The scope adds about 2 lb to the weight of the rifle. This affects the weight of the rifle when you carry or handle it for sure, and would normally also tone down the recoil, since it adds weight to the rifle. For example, my Pedersoli apparently weighs about 10.5 kb, so adding 2 lb to the weight via a scope would normally increase its weight by 2/10.5 = about 19%.

BUT, the sliding feature, which is designed to reduce recoil effects on the scope and mounts, because buffalo rifles generate SO much recoil, PREVENTS this reduction in recoil from affecting the SHOOTER! This is because while the rifle recoils, the scope does not - it stays where it was at the moment of firing. This is why the scope ends up displaced forward within the sliding mounts.

Something to keep in mind.

Jim G
 
That is strange, the front graduations LOOK like a vernier scale but I do not think they are, nothing lines up like a vernier would.

Only the rear elevation mount has a vernier scale. The front is a simple linear scale (see the photo) where you align the sliding portion. BUT, that is why I am playing with alternative 4mm threaded knobs. By substituting a knob that has many "tickmarks", you can make the "low precision" windage adjustment into a high precision one, capable of 0.12 MOA accuracy. (see the crib sheet)

Here is a photo of a M4 metric threaded "vintage appearing" knob, that looks like it could have been "period correct":

Vintage knob with 36 tickmarks.jpg

- It has a much larger (31mm) diameter which creates room for more tickmarks on the perimeter of the knob, and therefor more adjustment precision

- On its outer perimeter, it has 36 "tickmarks" (i.e. every 0.12 MOA) that are highly visible, plus I could paint every 6th tickmark, i.e. every 0.72 MOA, with white paint to make adjustment faster

- Going one step inward from the perimeter, there are 12 "larger" "tickmark petals", each of which is 4.42 / 12 = 0.37 MOA. Which are faster to count and move the knob when making alightly coarser adjustments

- Going inward again now to the 3rd level of tickmarks, there are 8 tickmark petals, each of which is 4.42 / 8 = 0.55 MOA

For LARGE windage adjustments, I just need to remember that (with my specific sight mount radius) each full 360 degree turn moves the windage 4.42 MOA.

So, for example, for a 10 MOA adjustment to counter a wind, I would rotate the knob 2 full turns plus 10.0 minus 2x4.42 = 10 minus 8.84 = 1.16 MOA = 2 inner tickmarks and be almost right on.

Remember, click adjustments are not allowed in BPCR or most other "period inspired" competition, so you need to set up your rifle with sight adjustment systems in a way that you understand and can manipulate easily and quickly, without going so far as to break the apparent "vintage" look and feel. Fortunately, I do math in my head rather easily.

You are treading a fine line between making things easier and faster while preserving the "spirit of the game".

Jim G
 
I forgot to cover one topic: The "sliding" feature affects how much recoil you feel. The scope adds about 2 lb to the weight of the rifle. This affects the weight of the rifle when you carry or handle it for sure, and would normally also tone down the recoil, since it adds weight to the rifle. For example, my Pedersoli apparently weighs about 10.5 kb, so adding 2 lb to the weight via a scope would normally increase its weight by 2/10.5 = about 19%.

BUT, the sliding feature, which is designed to reduce recoil effects on the scope and mounts, because buffalo rifles generate SO much recoil, PREVENTS this reduction in recoil from affecting the SHOOTER! This is because while the rifle recoils, the scope does not - it stays where it was at the moment of firing. This is why the scope ends up displaced forward within the sliding mounts.

Something to keep in mind.

Jim G

Please forgive a possibly stupid question: When you reposition after each shot, how do the crosshairs remain level? Is there something in the mounts preventing rotation?

I've seen video of this type of rifle/scope combo being fired, but not the reset procedure.
 
The front is a simple linear scale

What I thought, so why a scale on both sides? It could so easily been cut as a vernier for much finer adjustment.

Breaking position to make a front mount adjustment is kind of a chore. You might well choose to hold "Kentucky windage" from a calm air zero rather than scrambling around to make short term adjustments for conditions. The reason Soule tang sights are so common and why MVA can get $500 for a W&E rear mount.

Remember, click adjustments are not allowed in BPCR or most other "period inspired" competition, s

Right, the DZ is a Unertl design but without clicks. There was some work done "de-clicking" real Unertl mounts


When you reposition after each shot, how do the crosshairs remain level? Is there something in the mounts preventing rotation?

I can't tell what Hi-Lux does, but MVA scopes have a Pope Rib running in a groove in the mount to keep the reticle level.
 
Please forgive a possibly stupid question: When you reposition after each shot, how do the crosshairs remain level? Is there something in the mounts preventing rotation?

I've seen video of this type of rifle/scope combo being fired, but not the reset procedure.

Yes, after firing the rifle, the scope tube will have moved forward a short distance. When you pull it back into battery, there is an "indexing system" that "traps" a tongue attached to the frontmost ring on the barrel into a matching slot on the ring mount itself. This slot keeps the scope tube from rotating when in the "ready to fire" position:

Hi-Lux scope - 8 indexing tongue and slot - 1.jpeg

It's a system designed to mimic the simplicity of the technology available in the late 1800s. :)

Jim G
 
What I thought, so why a scale on both sides? It could so easily been cut as a vernier for much finer adjustment.
. . .

I agree. I had already suggested to Chris, the Marketing Manager at Leatherwood Hi-Lux, that the 2 knobs should be larger diameter and have tickmarks. This last photo I posted above that has 3 separate rings of usable tickmarks might inspire Hi-Lux to provide an optional knob accessory kit with a specifically designed set of knobs with multiple different rings of tickmarks, with "major' and "minor" gradations, to make adjustment easier, more accurate, and faster.

Keep in mind though that the actual change in MOA that an adjustment makes is dependant upon the radius of the mounting system (i.e. how far apart the front and rear existing sight dovetails on a rifle are located).

An idea that Hi-Lux might consider is offering a kit that requires a specific spacing, rather than whatever you might encounter on a given rifle. THEN, the adjustment system tickmarks and vernier setups could be engineered for easy to remember increments, like 0.25 MOA fine adjustments and 1.0 MOA coarse adjustments.

Or, Hi-Lux even providing an electronic Microsoft Excel spreadsheet on their website where you plug in your specific sight radius would be a help. I am a very experienced Excel user, so I just made my own "crib sheet", but some other shooters hate math and so would not likely do so!

Jim G
 
By the way, larger diameter knobs would also tighten up more easily than small diameter knobs, and would HOLD that tightness better.

Jim G
 
What I thought, so why a scale on both sides? It could so easily been cut as a vernier for much finer adjustment.

Breaking position to make a front mount adjustment is kind of a chore. You might well choose to hold "Kentucky windage" from a calm air zero rather than scrambling around to make short term adjustments for conditions. The reason Soule tang sights are so common and why MVA can get $500 for a W&E rear mount.

.

Jim,

The couple times I shot scope class, that's exactly what I did. Spotter showed 2 pins, hit and a white pin for hold point on the next shot. There's no way to drag the rifle back and make adjustments and still make time during the relay.

It's nice to see the TGTs, but that was about the only advantage.
 
Jeff Cooper said that, a scope helps the seeing, not the aiming.

Yes, and that's another thing: Actual old west scopes did not have any MOA dots on the reticle! Just simple crosshairs, made of natural materials, that were rather fragile.

Jim G
 
Mr Lee was hanging his Tackhole Dot on spider silk all along. His son continued the service for a while.

I think for modern scopes, the term "crosswires" is right.
 
Something else I should have mentioned: The customer support at Hi-Lux is truly excellent. Their website provides lots of articles that describe the detailed differences among the various product configurations that they offer, and they have numerous videos showing the scopes in action. They also have a video that walks you through the entire installation process. The only faults I could find in that installation video were:

- It glossed over the need and best method for enlarging the ID of the frontmost ring that has the tongue that engages the slot, to keep the scope crosshairs level. The need for that ID enlargement arises because the Chinese supplier apparently uses standard commercial pipe for the different lengths of sunshades, and that pipe OD does vary a bit because for its normal usage, OD is non-critical. I had bought both a 5" sunshade and a 7" sunshade, in order to be able to optimize my eye relief if necessary (That did not prove to be necessary). My 5" sunshade and my 7" sunshade had enough difference in their OD that the 7" would require enlarging the ID of the frontmost ring. I don't think simply saying "you might need a Dremel" was a good enough instruction.

- The video did not discuss how to handle loose or tight sight dovetails. My front dovetail was fortuitously "just right". It required a firm push to get the front mount into it, but not a brass punch and hammer, and the set screw on the mount ring tightened up well, and the mount stays reliably in place. But my rear dovetail was VERY loose, so my first attempt at installing the rear mount ended with play developing after sliding the scope fore and aft a few times, simulating the recoil effect. Fortunately I keep brass sheets around as shimming material, and it turned out that three .0025" pieces of brass shim cut to the right size to fit but not show under the rear mount tightened it up perfectly while still allowing the 3-piece shimming and mount to be slid in. The set screw on the mount base then snugged up nicely, and the mount has remained reliably rigid despite an almost 600 power factor recoil, thanks to the sliding action relief on that recoil.

- The video fails to mention at all that the scope has recessed screwheads at various points on the scope tube, which apaprently secure various internal optical components. It is VERY important to keep the scope screws on the BOTTOM when installing the scope, versus on the top of the scope tube (The reticle will be level either way). IF you don't notice the recessed screwheads, or assume their orientation does not matter, you would later discover that:

1. They look ugly when visible, which they ARE if you install the scope tube with them in the "top" position versus the "bottom" position

2. IF any of those screwheads happen to be, with your specific sight mount radius, anywhere within the "slide path" of the scope upon recoil, they DO interfere with the sliding motion. I simulated sliding the scope tube over one of the screwheads, and the scope tube DOES "catch" on the recessed screwhead, precisely because the screwhead is recessed. This is because there is a vertical spring-loaded plunger built into the top of the rear mount which presses downward on the scope tube to ensure it is properly in battery within its mounting ring. That plunger pushes the scope tube into the recessed screwhead, if the screwheads are in the TOP position. . If this were to occur during actual recoil, I can see the jarring could possibly dislodge the rear scope mount and thus create a hidden variation in scope position during use. It would have been very simple and fast for the installer in the video to simply say "Make sure the screwheads in the scope tube are on the BOOTOM of the tube as installed."

By the way, that video shows the installer doing the actual installation in REAL TIME, and it takes him about 11 minutes. Naturally, since I did not have probably months or years of experience with installing the scope, like the installer did, it took me "a bit longer" than that! :)

Jim G
 

$475 US for the 30" full length scope and $279 US for the nicer CNC sliding system mounts = $754US = over $1000 Canadian, plus shipping of course.

Note that the main body of the scope is about 30" long. The 3", 5", 7", or 9" sunshade threads onto the main body, creating a TOTAL scope length of 33" to 39", which will handle any rifle whose barrel length is 28" to 34", provided the barrel has front and rear sight dovetails . Other types of mounts are available for different rifles. For example, side mounts for lever actions because they eject cases upwards, and curves sideplate mounts for rifles with round versus octagon barrels and no dovetails.

When you buy the scope, you get a 5" sunshade included. If you need a different length of sunshade, they are under $20 here in Canada, and so less in the U.S. I think. They are inexpensive because they are each simply a threaded piece of standard pipe. No optics in them.

Hi-Lux also sells many different bases, so you can use the scope on rifles with virtually any standard dovetail dimensions, including the wide dovetails on the Shiloh Sharps.

Jim G
 
Very cool! Ive been considering using this setup on my Henry single.

Hi-Lux has multiple less costly variants for hunting versus precision target shooting, with different scope lengths and sight radii and simpler mounting. My model is one of their costly ones.

Jim G
 
That really really neat. :thumbup: My neighbor has a Ruger 77 220 swift with Unertl on it. It's neat too. But like yours better.

The Unertl type setup is the very traditional solution for vintage scopes. It's been around a very long time. It's a lot less costly, but also lacks the adjustment visibility and precision that the Hi-Lux sliding mount system provides. One obvious compromise on the Unertl type solution is that the supports inside the rear frame that adjust and secure the position of the scope tube are assymetric and not independant:

Hi-Lux Unertl type mount - 1.jpeg

See how the spring loaded plunger comes in from the bottom left, versus vertically or horizontally, and how the ends of the elevation and windage adjustors are FLAT? This causes them to not be precise in their adjustments because the tube they bear on is ROUND, not square, and an elevation or windage adjustment affect each other as a result.

Jim G
 
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