Marshall
Member
This is pretty stud too..........
For a carbine sized rifle, I kind of like the Socom and Scout
For a carbine sized rifle, I kind of like the Socom and Scout
The Coolest Rifle I've Ever Seen
- Thread starter Cosmoline
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MCgunner
Member
I don't care for LER scopes or the whole "scout" thing. Of course, I don't care for 1911s and don't have a picture of Jeff Cooper in my house either. The gun, however, looks handy. 
My favorite of favorites is my Remington M7 in .308. I have a 2x10x40 Weaver on it. Great little hunting rifle, love the thing.
I got absolutely no use what so every for heavy, cumbersome, slow to shoulder, excessively long tacticool rifles of semi auto persuasion. I ain't goin' to war, just deer huntin'. If I'm going to tote something that heavy, might as well be a .338 Win Mag. Heck, probably be lighter, shorter, and handier. And, what's with that goofy magazine sticking out? That don't help you over the gun rest in the blind or shooting prone. Grabs brush when you're walking in the woods, too, I'll bet. I dressed up an SKS for hunting and one of the things I did was get rid of that goofy ten round mag for a five rounder that fit flush. In the field, if you miss with your first shot, you likely ain't gonna get a second. Single shot is all you really need, so long as it's accurate.
My favorite of favorites is my Remington M7 in .308. I have a 2x10x40 Weaver on it. Great little hunting rifle, love the thing.
I got absolutely no use what so every for heavy, cumbersome, slow to shoulder, excessively long tacticool rifles of semi auto persuasion. I ain't goin' to war, just deer huntin'.
If I'm going to tote something that heavy, might as well be a .338 Win Mag. Heck, probably be lighter, shorter, and handier. And, what's with that goofy magazine sticking out? That don't help you over the gun rest in the blind or shooting prone. Grabs brush when you're walking in the woods, too, I'll bet. I dressed up an SKS for hunting and one of the things I did was get rid of that goofy ten round mag for a five rounder that fit flush. In the field, if you miss with your first shot, you likely ain't gonna get a second. Single shot is all you really need, so long as it's accurate.FatalMove
Member
coolist rifle??
First off i don't agree with the coolest rifle bit..... Second if you want a handy ruger rifle go with the deerfield carbine. If you want cool go with an AR-10 in .308!
Anyway we all have oppinions and they are just like a holes they all stink.
FataL][V][ove
First off i don't agree with the coolest rifle bit..... Second if you want a handy ruger rifle go with the deerfield carbine. If you want cool go with an AR-10 in .308!
Anyway we all have oppinions and they are just like a holes they all stink.
FataL][V][ove
Cosmo, if that's the coolest rifle you've ever seen...
Then you need to get out more.
My cool rifle vote:
Modified 6.5-284, 5 shots, 1000 yards, 1.564" group.
http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek050.html
Then you need to get out more.
My cool rifle vote:
Modified 6.5-284, 5 shots, 1000 yards, 1.564" group.
http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek050.html
mustanger98
Member
As far as the debate over coolest or handiest goes, it all comes down to an individual's preferences. Short and lightweight and handy pretty well describes the Ruger M77 Mk2 Frontier. However, that description isn't exclusive to this one rifle.
I disagree with the preferences outlined in this quote, but that's just the difference between that set of preferences and my own. For handy, in a .44magnum chambering I prefer a Win.'94AE. For a cool .308, I'd rather have a M-14, an Israeli Mauser K98, a Savage Model 11GL, or a build of my own specs.
I looked at the Ruger Deerfield and between the overall feel and the mags being 4rds and expensive, I just didn't feel compelled to buy one for what they were charging. To me, all an AR-10 is is another black "plastic fantastic" in a long line of Matty Mattel toys.
An opinion smells about like the attitude behind it.
I disagree with the preferences outlined in this quote, but that's just the difference between that set of preferences and my own. For handy, in a .44magnum chambering I prefer a Win.'94AE. For a cool .308, I'd rather have a M-14, an Israeli Mauser K98, a Savage Model 11GL, or a build of my own specs.
I looked at the Ruger Deerfield and between the overall feel and the mags being 4rds and expensive, I just didn't feel compelled to buy one for what they were charging. To me, all an AR-10 is is another black "plastic fantastic" in a long line of Matty Mattel toys.
An opinion smells about like the attitude behind it.
Langenator
Member
OK, I admit I know nothing about 1000m shooting, expect that it's better performed by stabilized weapons of 20mm or greater firing APFSDS rounds.
So someone please enlighten me: what exactly is that ugly flat white thing on top of the barrel? It greatly detracts from the otherwise extremely sexy lines of the rifle.
So someone please enlighten me: what exactly is that ugly flat white thing on top of the barrel? It greatly detracts from the otherwise extremely sexy lines of the rifle.
mustanger98
Member
According to my understanding of dedicated long-range rifles, that's a heat shield. As the barrel heats up, you get heat waves right there in front of your scope which blurs your picture of the target and the mirage on out there. The heat shield would probably send the heat to the sides of the barrel so as to send them away from you line of sight. The ones I recall seeing were made of plexiglass though.
That's easy.
It's a mirage shield. It prevents heat from the barrel creating a mirage effect in the scope's field of view. That way, the shooter only has to contend with the mirage downrange from the muzzle to the target, vs. from the objective lens to the target.
It's a mirage shield. It prevents heat from the barrel creating a mirage effect in the scope's field of view. That way, the shooter only has to contend with the mirage downrange from the muzzle to the target, vs. from the objective lens to the target.
CCCPsoldier
Member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2006
- Messages
- 6
well i think the mosins won't mind at all since they won't be sportarized if one has a perfect huntin rifle
Old Time Hunter
Member
Win '94 Tapper chambered for .44Mag...coolest gun! Makes you have to get up close and personal, not that girly 1000yd techno-stuff. If you can shoot a 1000 yd shot w/open sights, with any rifle, and hit a 4 X 4 target...that would be cool!!!
Would that be...
a 4'x4' target, or 4"x4" target?
Drive to Lodi, WI sometime, and watch the Palma folks and their iron sights at 1000 yards.
Or meet me in Forsyth, MT this June 17th for the Matthew Quigley Buffalo Rifle Match. Iron sights are the norm, I'll be using an 1874 Sharps Business Rifle in .45-70. My 75 year-old father will be running a Remington Rolling Block in .40-65. We're both Wisconsinites, btw, but neither of us have a Model 94 in .44 Magnum - ours are proper .30 WCF.
a 4'x4' target, or 4"x4" target?
Drive to Lodi, WI sometime, and watch the Palma folks and their iron sights at 1000 yards.
Or meet me in Forsyth, MT this June 17th for the Matthew Quigley Buffalo Rifle Match. Iron sights are the norm, I'll be using an 1874 Sharps Business Rifle in .45-70. My 75 year-old father will be running a Remington Rolling Block in .40-65. We're both Wisconsinites, btw, but neither of us have a Model 94 in .44 Magnum - ours are proper .30 WCF.
mustanger98
Member
My old '94's a .30WCF too. With a Lyman #2 tang sight. The one I've bragged on in so many threads now. It eats anything I feed it and hits accurately at any range I shoot if I do my part. I'm fixin' to start match loading Lasercast 170gr LFP's over 7grs of Unique since I have data for it. Since the '94's a pushfeed system- and I know this because I checked- I'm gonna leave 'em seated a mite long and let chambering the round seat the bullet to the longest OAL so it just does bite into the rifling. I know I can single-load them this way. I know about this method because the buffalo rifle guys do their .45-70's that way and they're who I'll be competing against. FWIW, I'm also fixin' to be doing the same deal, with adjustments to the powder charge weight, with .30-06 in a '03A3 just to hear 'em gripe twice as much as they already do because there's another guy at my club doing the same thing. He hits; he scores. So do I.
Oh, and I like my '94 in .44magnum too. Short, light, handy, and big punch within the intended range. One way or another, it's all good.
Oh, and I like my '94 in .44magnum too. Short, light, handy, and big punch within the intended range. One way or another, it's all good.
Let me know how those Oregon Trail Lasercast bullets do in your '94, Mustanger98!
I've been loathe to run cast bullets sans gas check in my smokeless chamberings. Chalk it up to a failed cast bullet experiment in a couple 8mm 98 Mausers that led to some serious solder removal from full-length military barrels.
I did, as the manager of an Air Force forensics lab a few years ago, run a melted Lasercast .45 200gr SWC through an X-ray diffractometer to see what percent of silver the bullet alloy had. It was trace, less than 1%, but it was definitely there in the mix, along with other metals. So they're not really lying when they say there's silver in the bullets, but I doubt it's enough to really make a difference, save for marketing purposes.
This guy makes some nice gas-checked .30 WCF cast bullets:
http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=burnhambill
Regarding seating the cast bullets so they lightly engrave into the rifling upon chambering, that's also what I do, not only with my .30 WCF Model 94 Winchester, but also my .45-70 Sharps 1874 Business Rifle (finger pressure only, not much camming action in that rifle), .45-70 Ruger #1S, 8x57 1917 Amberg Gewehr98 Mauser, and 7mm Rimmed International Wichita Silhouette Pistol (Necked-down .30 WCF). Seems to garner better accuracy, maybe more uniform ignition pressures, too.
I've been loathe to run cast bullets sans gas check in my smokeless chamberings. Chalk it up to a failed cast bullet experiment in a couple 8mm 98 Mausers that led to some serious solder removal from full-length military barrels.
I did, as the manager of an Air Force forensics lab a few years ago, run a melted Lasercast .45 200gr SWC through an X-ray diffractometer to see what percent of silver the bullet alloy had. It was trace, less than 1%, but it was definitely there in the mix, along with other metals. So they're not really lying when they say there's silver in the bullets, but I doubt it's enough to really make a difference, save for marketing purposes.
This guy makes some nice gas-checked .30 WCF cast bullets:
http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=burnhambill
Regarding seating the cast bullets so they lightly engrave into the rifling upon chambering, that's also what I do, not only with my .30 WCF Model 94 Winchester, but also my .45-70 Sharps 1874 Business Rifle (finger pressure only, not much camming action in that rifle), .45-70 Ruger #1S, 8x57 1917 Amberg Gewehr98 Mauser, and 7mm Rimmed International Wichita Silhouette Pistol (Necked-down .30 WCF). Seems to garner better accuracy, maybe more uniform ignition pressures, too.
mustanger98
Member
This tells me whether I run gas checks in my .30-30 or not (not talking "Microgroove barrel" here), I'll probably have to in my 2-groove 03A3. Necessary or not, it can't hurt to run a gas check in the .30-30, but I wonder how hot I'll have to load 'em before it's really necessary. I don't have much data handy at the moment- I know what I saw on the Alliant web page section on Cowboy Action loads. While they were talking lead, I don't recall them saying it should be gas checked.
I oughta look back and be sure.I'm always hearing about the linotype (1:20, etc tin/lead alloy), but I don't hear much about silver in the mix. The other guy at my club who shoots an 03A3 is shooting a very hard linotype. Just from what I've read, I agree about doubting silver making a difference. Reality, meet the marketing department.
What I figure to do is see what length is just a little longer than needed, then seat 'em to that for that light finger pressure like you're talking about. I figure there's no sense in leaving them so long it abuses Mr. Browning's toggle cam system beyond what it normally takes. Not saying anybody would, but rather I just put that together. I've heard that about the ignition pressures too, but I've also noticed most guys I see seating long are also pointing their rifles nearly straight up when seating the cartridge so the powder will be back there against the primer- seems pressures are better that way too. (I've also heard plenty about the guys who load 2400 using a toilet paper spacer- a quarter of a square pushed down in the case- to hold the powder in a closer to right position as they say 2400 is more position sensitive than Unique or some other powders.)
When I get some results with the '94, I'll start another thread on 'em.
I usually have enough 2400 in the cases to keep the primer covered.
But, yes, it's a good idea to tip the muzzle up and get the powder against the primer if you're not using a case filler.
I'll never forget a pal with a Rolling Block in .45-70. He ran a 405gr cast bullet load, not 2400, but something like IMR4198, and it was a fairly light load. The gun went "thump", instead of "bang". The bullet was stopped a couple inches into the rifling, with this huge wad of partially burned IMR4198 wedged solidly against it. I remember us tapping it all back out of the breech with a cleaning rod, and how the IMR4198 wad had taken on a honey golden color. No damage to gun, and the bullet looked fine, albeit with rifling engraved nicely.
We figured either weak primer, or powder against bullet vs. primer.
Last I talked to him, he was running Accurate XMP-5744. I've got some of the same, it's also a darned good cast bullet powder, but I use so much 2400 in other applications, I tend to gravitate towards it.
One thing I did learn about cast bullets and low pressure loads - crimp is a must for clean burning, and the bullet engraving the rifling helps in that respect. I had so much unburned IMR3031 in one batch of .45-70 cast loads I seriously considered laying a sheet on the ground in front of the rifle, to recoup at least some of the powder investment. Looking through the breech of my Ruger #1S, it appeared I was using the barrel as some big powder trickler.
Enough of this stuff, it's more suitable for a discussion in the reloading forum vs. coolest rifles.
But, yes, it's a good idea to tip the muzzle up and get the powder against the primer if you're not using a case filler.
I'll never forget a pal with a Rolling Block in .45-70. He ran a 405gr cast bullet load, not 2400, but something like IMR4198, and it was a fairly light load. The gun went "thump", instead of "bang". The bullet was stopped a couple inches into the rifling, with this huge wad of partially burned IMR4198 wedged solidly against it. I remember us tapping it all back out of the breech with a cleaning rod, and how the IMR4198 wad had taken on a honey golden color. No damage to gun, and the bullet looked fine, albeit with rifling engraved nicely.
We figured either weak primer, or powder against bullet vs. primer.
Last I talked to him, he was running Accurate XMP-5744. I've got some of the same, it's also a darned good cast bullet powder, but I use so much 2400 in other applications, I tend to gravitate towards it.
One thing I did learn about cast bullets and low pressure loads - crimp is a must for clean burning, and the bullet engraving the rifling helps in that respect. I had so much unburned IMR3031 in one batch of .45-70 cast loads I seriously considered laying a sheet on the ground in front of the rifle, to recoup at least some of the powder investment. Looking through the breech of my Ruger #1S, it appeared I was using the barrel as some big powder trickler.
Enough of this stuff, it's more suitable for a discussion in the reloading forum vs. coolest rifles.
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