The JC Higgins Model 31

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Bolt Seating issue

My son's Model 31 shoot fine and straight, but after a couple rounds, the bolt won't seat all the way and has to be nudged forward in order to fire the next round.

Is this just a worn spring? I cleaned the rails. They weren't that bad.
 
What's the difference b/w a recoil spring and a driving spring? I looked on e-gunparts and they show something called a driving spring. Is that the part?

Thanks so much for any help.

Also, any recommendations for cleaning solvent for the rails and bolt? Right now I'm just using the Hoopes that came in a rifle cleaning kit.
 
Hoppes should be fine... but there are a lot of nooks and crannies in there where gunk can collect. Have you taken the bolt out and everything?

the recoil spring (probably the same thing as the driving spring) is the one that rides on a pin/plunger and fits in the back of the bolt... the one that pushes the bolt shut.
 
OK, then that's the same spring.

Yes, I took it apart completely. In fact the trigger assembly came apart much more easily and inconveniently than I had hoped. It took me about three days to figure out the spring placement. Having gotten the rifle for free, I was tempted to convert it into a lawn plugging device. But then I finally got it put together correctly. It's very accurate and feeds fine, just that little seating problem.

I appreciate the help. I might need to get a better scrubber to get into those crevices.

Thanks again!
 
See post #70 above

http://thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=5809302&postcount=70

if you have any questions as to how it goes together, let me know.

Basically you drift the extractor retaining pin out of the bolt (vertically; far enough to get the extractor out/in), and the tiny spring pushes out against the rear of the extractor, and pushes in against the side of the bolt. there's a small recess to position it but it's only held there by the tension of the extractor. Helps to have three hands to put it back in.

If you bought a milled (not stamped) extractor from numrich, your extractor pin may not fit through the hole. Mine wouldn't.
 
Does anyone know the differences between the JC Higgins models 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33?
All (I believe) are .22 cal semi-auto. Other than that, I hav no idea of the differences.
I just purchased a model 30 no scope - bought a Weaver 4X on ebay and added it. This rifle has the roll-up sling, and it says shoots shorts, longs and long rifle 22's.
The cocking mechanism does not have a hold-back. Wondering if it can be 'upgraded' with the right parts?
 
No upgrade. The 29 and 31 are identical save for the fact that the 29 shoots 22 LR only. The 31 shoots shorts, longs, and LR.

The 30 is nearly identical, except the charging handle is on the left of the receiver. Don't know about the other models.
 
Hi all. I thought I'd join because we did a deep clean on my 31 tonight and wow it was a pain and this thread was a lot of help. I got this rifle for my 18th birthday from my daddy and there is a really interesting story as to how he came to own it.

My daddy and his buddy were out scouting for deer in Utah in the fall 1995. They came across some poachers (grrrrrr) and they were stashing their guns in some bushes as the rangers were pulling up. Fast forward a year and he had drawn for the same area and was out scouting again. Low and behold, My rifle and 2 other rifles were still in the bushes. My daddy snagged them.

When it came time for my birthday, he gave me my rifle. It has made it through so much; my ex husband stealing it and tying the action down with a small bit of wire so I would get hurt (got it back and found it before I shot it), stolen another 2 times one of which coke was spilled on it, and still has been a great rifle to own, I'm glad that I was able to get it back all those times.

I love my rifle and am so glad that I found this thread to give my rifle the much needed, well deserved cleaning.

Thanks
 
Interesting story, not sure I understand parts of it (poachers, hiding guns, etc.), but welcome anyway. Glad this thread could be of some help! :cool:
 
Gifts from a distant past

Howdy!
Out of the clear blue, my father gave me a brand new, J.C.Higgins, Model 31, .22cal, tube feed, semi-automatic rifle, complete with a red, built-in recoiling sling and a J.C/ Higgins scope.
That was in 1956, when I was in the eighth grade.
Since my previous armament was a Daisy lever action carbine, the step up was much appreciated by me.
The rifle would handle shorts, longs, and/or long rifle rounds, even mixed in the same magazine, with no problems at all,,,,,for a while.
It was this rifle that taught me the importance of PROPER cleaning and PROPER(meaning the right amount of the RIGHT lube) lubrication.
I can still remember the first disassembly, on our kitchen table. I learned quickly, to use extreme care when tearing it down, or I would be on my hands and knees for an hour, hunting for tiny springs, pins and other parts.
As mentioned by other "31 Clubmembers", this design has lots of places for dirt, grit, unburned powder and gummy/hardened lubricant, to hide. The only way to keep this gun working properly, is to take out the trigger assembly, then the bolt assembly and take them apart to allow brushes, toothpicks and wooden scrapers access to all the gunk. I found that automotive spray brake cleaner works, but the stocks must be removed, or the finish and/or wood could be damaged.
Once cleaned, only light, high-grade lubricant will allow it to work in all weather. Use too thick a lube and the bolt will not always close fully, especially in the winter.
Failure to clean out the drive spring channel will have the same result.
When the rifle was only a year old(1957), we had to order a new firing pin from Sears. It has been in there ever since.
That's the only part ever replaced.
I agree with other writers that the foreend shape is both stylish and comfortable to handle.
I've shot thousands of every type of ammo through it, but only one box of shorts, because my Dad taught me that this could wear out the rifling adjacent to the chamber.
I used it for hunting squirrels, in river-bottom timber, but actually shot one quail, on the wing, over open sights and with a good backstop.
I had no trouble getting consistant head-shots on the squirrels, to save meat damage, but I can tell you that there wasn't much left of that quail.
While still a teenager, I took it upon myself to steam out all the little dents I had inflicted on the rifle, up until then.
I was careful to block sand all the old finish off, to prevent any "saucering" around holes and edges. "Linspeed Oil" was used to refinish it, and it's still on there now and looks better than new, although I'm getting the itch to spruce it up again, now that I'm retired.
It's been a very dependable firearm, as long as you clean it right and don't overdo the lubrication.
I can understand why so many folks have joined this group.
Thanks for your time.
 
Welcome Paducahrider! Great stories. If you can post some pics I'd love to see your old rifle.

BTW I finally got the chance to take my Model 31 out the other day; first time since repairing the extractor. The rifle hasn't been fired in over 20 years. It worked flawlessly and is a complete blast. I can't believe how much fun a nice .22 is. :cool:
 
Gifts From The Past II

To 1KperDay:
Thanks for the welcome!
I learned a lot from shooting and taking care of that rifle.
Once, my Dad found out that a couple of us boys had been sneaking around, smoking cigarettes. I dreaded the whipping I figured I would get, after I had learned that he knew of our clandestine activities.
He drove into the driveway, at my Grandparent's farm, near Hardmoney, KY, where I spent many of my early summers, and motioned for me to follow him to some lawn chairs, in the shade of the three big oaks, in the front yard.
We sat down, in two facing chairs, and he explained that he knew what I had been doing and admitted that he also knew he couldn't stop me if I chose to continue doing it.
He then asked me if I liked to shoot that rifle. My heart sank as I answered that I did, thinking that he was preparing to take it from me. Now the price of a pack of cigarettes, at that time, was close to the same as a box of 22 cartridges, and he pointed that out to me.
He then did something that made one of the biggest impressions upon me, of my life, before or since; He gave me a choice!.
He said I would have to choose, at some time, whether I bought cigarettes or .22 cartridges, because I wouldn't be able to afford both.
I knew he had been a HEAVY smoker, but had quit, cold turkey, years before.
He reminded me that smoking was a "nasty" habit, and would cost more than money, over the years, but shooting could be a pleasant hobby, if done properly, over an even greater length of time; but it was my choice.
I didn't hesitate in telling him that I wouldn't smoke any more, and I have never smoked, or wanted to, since.
The rifle was a great gift, but the lesson that I am resposible for my choices was a far greater one.
I'm proud of that rifle, but it's just a reminder that I'm even prouder of my Father.
Thanks for your time.
 
Once cleaned, only light, high-grade lubricant will allow it to work in all weather. Use too thick a lube and the bolt will not always close fully, especially in the winter.
Is this the general consensus on lubrication? I've used grease on the bolt in the past, maybe that's what's been causing some of my problems. I just detail-cleaned it over the last couple of days and lubed it up with Rem-oil after reading this post. Should I stick with that?
 
Try it out and see... rem oil is certainly not thick. Should work fine if everything else is in order. I use oil on mine, and sparingly. Lots of nooks and crannies to collect crud in there. :)
 
Is rem oil ok?

To ShotgJoe:
I agree with 1kperday,; Rem Oil works fine, as long as you heed his(her?) other advice, and don't use too much.
This particular mechanism is more sensitive to both the type AND amount of lube that is used than the average rifle mechanism.
I have even tried completely disassembling the action, degreasing it, then coating it with a dry lube. It worked fine, but it seemed to be noisier when cycling. I tried this during the winter, and it certainly worked well then, and didn't tend to gum up.
Another oil I tried succesfully was Tri Flow, which has colloidal PTFE as a component.
The best lube I ever used, for a variety of purposes, was a DuPont product made for racing bicycles. It was called Dupont Bicycle Lube, I believe.
It was 100% ptfe and just would not allow galling to happen, period.
They quit making it some time ago, and I have used all my stash.
They do make a 100% ptfe(type) industrial grease called Krytox, that comes in a tube about the same size as one of those "travel sized" toothpaste tubes, but it is not cheap. It is extremely slick and useful, but NOT for this gun, because of the tendency for any grease to accumulate grit.
Good, light oil and not too much of it works best.
While on this subject, sooner or later WD40 will come up. EVERYONE needs to know that WD40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT!!!!!!!!
It is a actually a solvent that is far overused as a lubricant.
If WD40 is used as a lube with some metals, it actually would be better to have nothing at all on it. It CAUSES stainless steels to gall.
People get confused about WD40 when they squirt it on some old, gummed up lube, that is causing something to bind or squeak. The WD40 simply dissolves the gunk, and, for a short time liquifies it. Of course, as soon as the WD40 evaporates, you will have the same problem as before.
DON'T USE WD40 to lube ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for your time.
 
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Does anyone know the differences between the JC Higgins models 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33?
All (I believe) are .22 cal semi-auto. Other than that, I hav no idea of the differences.
I just purchased a model 30 no scope - bought a Weaver 4X on ebay and added it. This rifle has the roll-up sling, and it says shoots shorts, longs and long rifle 22's.
The cocking mechanism does not have a hold-back. Wondering if it can be 'upgraded' with the right parts?
Several years ago I borrowed a Higgins model 31 for a day of plinking and frankly had a grand time. I've got the bug to find another one - found a Model 30 - on Gun Broker - no scope. Bought it and have had a fit of a time finding a scope and rings to fit!
Bought a 3/4" scope (possibly an original) with tip mount on ebay, but it wouldn't center on windage - the adjustment was all the way to one end and wouldn't correct any further.
Bought a 1" Bushnell scope with rings that was supposed to fit into the top grooves, but no luck there. Tried to trim the ring mounts but not happy with the reaults.
Bought a set of rings - Weaver Grand Slam #49313 that was supposed to fit, but it was just a tad bit large. My solution was to scissor up an aluminum soda can and make shims to fit over the scope mount grooves - front and back. One shim worked on the front and 2 shims work on the rear.
What a pain trying to find some way to make a scope fit.
Now to go back to the shooting range to see how close I can make it to a true zero!
 
Joined THR to join this club

Recently inherited this when my Dad passed this year. I've not fired it yet since I brought it home.

Really looking for some info on the 4x scope and how it would be mounted. I don't have one but hope to find one.
 

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