The THR Walker Club

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Hi Icy!
Was missing you a while on THR. Guess you've got yourself the coolest BP revolver this side of the universe. Done a real good job to it too.

Sure Scrat will sign you right up!

Hildo
 
Help

Found a used Uberti Walker today for $250. Didn't buy it but kept kickin myself the whole way home. I will be in that area again next week and if it's still there it'll be mine. I have an 1858 Remington NMA but am not familiar with the Walker, except the fact that I WANT ONE!

Is there anything in particular I should look for before I buy it other than the usual? Any help would be appreciated.

God willing I'll be a member of this exclusive club in a week! :D
 
My Walker (Uberti) has not given me any problems and I don't think there are any specific problems with it, other than the falling loading lever. But that's historically correct. The catch spring that holds the loading lever is now broken on my gun, but that don't stop me shooting it. A little tape, which slides on and off easily for loading, and it works.
My Walkers cylinder binds up quite fast due to BP fouling blown into the arbour pin. Now I use a lube pil (50/50 crisco/beeswax) under each bullet which keeps the cylinder turning and the barrel clean so I have no limit to the amount I can shoot anymore.
I don't use the Walker, or any other revolver for that matter, without a lube pill anymore.
Buy yourself some .457 bullets, or even better cast them yourself, and you're ready to go.

Not sure about retail prices for used Walkers in the USA, but if it's reasonable I'd go for it. No revolver beats the Walker in sound, looks and (for me) accuracy. Great gun!

Hildo
 
Damn Icy, that's nice! Did you strip and polish that?


I don't use the Walker, or any other revolver for that matter, without a lube pill anymore.

+1 on the grease cookies, makes BP much more enjoyable. I just started using them, easy to make and really work. A big THANKS to SG.
 
Here is a picture of my Walker. I have had it several years and don't know the manufacture. The only marking I could fine are on the right side above the trigger it has BN PN then a box with markings I can't tell what they are. Above the box is a circle with a star in it. On the barrel it has same box with star above and PN.
 

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Howdy Folks. I may be eligible for membership here in awhile. Thinking about going for a Walker replica.
Who makes the most authentic version of the Walker? Whats the story on the Signature Series Colts?
Sorry about all the questions, I'm getting excited about this. A friend gave me a BP revolver awhile back and my son and I had some good times shooting it.
Thanks in advance, Ray
 
I would like to join also. BTW I purchased my uberti walker used for 250.00 and have not ever had a problem with it.she's real acurate and real loud!!!:neener: DSC00753.jpg
 
To: SE-Okla.shooter

Regarding the markings on your Walker, the two letters in a box is a code for the year it was manufactured in Italy. Post the letters to learn the year.
 
ferretray said:
Who makes the most authentic version of the Walker? Whats the story on the Signature Series Colts?
Uberti is the only company currently making the Walker. Armi San Marco also made Walker replicas but is out of business. The Colt Blackpowder Arms Co. also made a Walker under it's Signature Series, and it is also out of production.

All three Walker replicas were authentic reproductions, although the Colt signature on the backstrap of the Signature Series gun was not present on the 1847 manufactured guns; there is meaningful debate as to whether the Signature Series guns qualify as original Colt manufacture or are reproductions as well.

In terms of quality, in descending order they rank Colt Blackpowder (Signature Series), Uberti and Armi San Marco.
 
BN is in box then the PN then the box with what looks like a shield inside and a X over the shield. Above that box is a circle with a star in it. I hope this helps.
 
The PN under the shield and the other marks are Italian proof house marks, identifying the gun as of Italian manufacture. Uberti's logo is a U inside what looks like a revolver muzzle; Armi San Marco's is the three letters ASM. Look under the loading lever at the back, near where the round part of the barrel enters the large rectangular shape.
 
The Sn. number stood out and I didn't notice the little symbol above. It is a
Uberti. Thanks for the help. Here is a picture of it's brothers and sisters
 

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Hello Scrat and all. Just wanted to say hello. Will be on about 2 hours every day starting the 3rd of December. Hope everyone is fine. I miss ya'll...........
 
Damn Icy, that's nice! Did you strip and polish that?

No I did not do anything on my Walker. It was made by Uberti by special order in "White Finish" and it was part of their normal offer. This year this option is no longer available on Uberti pages (www.uberti.com or www.ubertireplicas.com)

Can anybody tell me which forum is the real one:

www.thehighroad.org or
www.thehighroad.us


I got message from the other one, too!

Icy
 
Can anybody tell me which forum is the real one:

www.thehighroad.org or
www.thehighroad.us

Neither. Or both.

There is an ongoing dispute between the originator of The High Road forums and an administrator as to ownership of the forums. It has entered the US court system via lawsuits. I will not attempt to repeat the claims involved.

.org is the original forum, .us is a 'sister' started by one of the litigants. The reason for starting the second forum will have to be addressed by the owner.
 
Sign Me Up!

Well boys hopefully I am finally worth of membership. Just picked er up a few hours ago. I have a 58 Remington so I need a little help with the takedown on this puppy. It looks like there is a little clip on the wedge. Can you guys throw me some pointers on takedown.

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Takedown:
Tap the wedge completely through the slot from the left (looking from hammer to muzzle). It will be loose but retained by the screw head on the right side. Put the hammer in half cock, rotate the cylinder so that a web between chambers rests under the loading lever and use the loading lever to pop the barrel assembly free from the arbor and frame.

Assembly: simply slide the assembly on the arbor, being sure to keep the wedge from entering the slot in the arbor. Be sure the pins in the frame engage the holes in the bottom of the barrely assembly. Push the wedge in so that you get a tight fit but the cylinder does not interfere with the forcing cone.
 

Nevermind mykeal I got it. Is the wedge always that tough to get out?


thanks mykeal but there is a piece of the wedge on the left side that looks like a upward hook. It won't let me push the wedge through. I've to push it down but it doesn't seem to wanna budge.

It is the left part of part #17 in this diagram.
 
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