Thinking of revising a Magpul fixed stock

[JWH321]

I have a Magpul fixed stock that I really like a lot, and its dead solid and quiet on the gun. No rattles, no movement.

But its nearly an inch too short.

I've been looking at the two mounting extensions, and it looks to me like oone could be cut off flush on the front and have the other fixed in its place to gain the needed inch. I fully recognize that this step will require some drilling of the buffer tube to move the stock backward but that is a minor issue.

The question is how to join the two parts of the extension. Is there any sort of adhesive or solvent that will join this type of material. I think I can strengthen it enough on the inside with epoxy and some fiber glass cloth, but I would like to ensure that the two front pieces become one.

Has anyone tried this? Any other ideas??

If MAGPUL is out there reading this, are you planning any longer extensions?

(BTW, I already have the .80 inch pad on the shoulder end, so its at its max on that side.)

 

[Mike C2]

Is this an MOE carbine stock that's fixed or is this a rifle stock? If it's a rifle stock you can get the DPMS extension kit and use a stock A2 extension and screw.

 

[JWH321]

Mike, its the MOE carbine stock. Thanks.

 

[Mike C2]

Have you tried with both of the "spacers" that came with the stock? I have one but don't remember exactly how it all went together. But it looks like you could trim the one designed to go around the sling mount and put it on first then add the second.

I like a LONG LOP myself and I just added the Extended Butt pad to mine. I've added them to all of my Magpul stocks except an ACS-L that us already an inch longer than the other stocks from Magpul.

 

[MistWolf]

First, push your scope further forward on the rifle. You'll need less LOP and you'll find the AR is much more comfortable to shoot

Second, no epoxy or drilling needed. Just make a spacer from PVC-
View attachment 734712

 

[JWH321]

That is simply perfect. Thank you MistWolf. I'm headed to the garage. I have PVC ready and waiting.

 

[JWH321]

Not quite as simple as I would have thought, but it still looks like the idea has merit.

I'm thinking now of heading over to a friend's house. He has a 3D printer. I have no idea what it would take to "print" one of these or even if it could be done. How hard is it to transfer something into a 3D "blueprint" that could be read by a printer?

I continue to be amazed at what I don't know.

 

[MistWolf]

You can make the spacer one of two ways and I've done both-

Either remove the RE and slide the ring on before re-installing it

Or, make a split in the ring just wide enough to let you slip it over the back of the RE and spread enough to slide past the ridge

In either case, to find out how long the spacer needs to be, loosen the lock screw and slide the stock back until the lock screw contacts the ridge. That's how long the spacer needs to be. With a little sanding & filing, everything will fit nicely.

The stock comes with two nose pieces. One that's to be used with an ASAP type plate and the other to be use with a standard plate. Use the nose piece for the standard plate.

Don't over-think the problem. The solution is really very simple

 

[HammsBeer]

With that much lop why not just put a rifle receiver tube and buffer on there and use a magpul rifle length stock? Much simpler than grinding/fitting spacers and you get a smoother buffer system too.

 

[JWH321]

I wish I had gone the rifle route, but the fact is that I've spent the money and I'm trying to deal with what I have. I have to try thins because I have a fused elbow from an accident and my right arm doesn't quite bend far enough to make the shorter stock comfortable to shoot. And I'm a retired bum so I thought this would make a good project and just might be helpful to someone else if it worked.

The stock comes with two nose spacers. It has one with a notch to clear the Magpul ASAP end plate, and the other with no notch to connect cleanly to the back of a standard mil-spec end plate. The original intent was to cut the nose off the non-ASAP spacer and bond it to the rear of the ASAP spacer to add about 1.2 in to the LOP. This will require drilling the buffer tube along the adjustment ribs to lock it down. I was mostly concerned with how best to join the two spacer parts to preclude their movement. I may still try route just to see how it comes out.

I talked with my friend with the 3D printer and, simply put, since I don't speak CAD, I will not get a design and hence, I will also get no printed object. Apparently the business of setting up the CAD file is pretty time consuming. I'm also told that the product may have had a pretty rough surface and may have required a lot of finish work anyway. (its possible that he just didn't want to do this project).

I milled a bit off the inside of a 3/4 PVC connector to make it 1.15 in inside diameter and I've cut a slot to clear the adjuster channel on the buffer tube. It slips over the threaded end of the buffer tube. I left enough play in the slot I cut to allow adjustment of the castle nut. I also found some black heat shrink tubing to go over the outside of the connector to "finish" it off. Its just a tiny bit smaller in OD compared to the nose section of the Magpul part. I'm sure that it can be fitted further to smooth things out.

To me, it still doesn't look quite right, but that is how I usually feel till I live a bit with something I've made. We are all our own worst critics.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Ibmikey]

Magpul makes an enhanced buttpad that should provide the length needed without the rube goldberg spacers. Check their offerings as several thicknesses are offered.