Thoughts on small-radius firing pin stops for 1911s?

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Rubber_Duck

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Has anybody here switched to a small-radius or flat-bottom firing pin stop? If so, how did you like it?

I have a Colt Rail Gun that I would like to fit an oversize EGW firing pin stop to and leave a very small radius on to try it out. Just curious as to what I should expect out of this.
 
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I installed them in all of my 1911s years ago. They hold the slide and barrel in battery a tiny bit longer and allow the recoil to be spread out over a longer period of time. They also slow the slide's rearward velocity without slamming it forward harder like a heavy recoil sporing does. EGW's stop also helps control extractor movement. There is no downside IMO and Browning's original blueprint called for that design but was changed by the Army because too many soldiers complained about the force required to rack the slide with the hammer forward. The more you mess with Browning's original design the more problems you create.
 
1911Tuner installed one on my Springfield GI about 15 years ago. The difference was immediately noticeable.

Since then, I have put one on all of my non-collectable (e.g. shooter) 1911s.
 
Yep, 1911Tuner turned me on to EGW's flat firing pin stop. Put them in a couple of my 1911's and am very satisfied. There is some fitting required to install it though.
 
I've added oversized FPS's in all but one of my 1911's. It doubtless increases the stress on the hammer pin, but that pin is well oversized and will take it.
 
I'd ordered the stop a bit back but sat on installing into the Springfield since I wasn't sure how much fitting would be involved. Was pretty simple: measure the old FPS, measured the new one then measured the channel where it fits in. I'd bought drop-in FPS and those worked yet I wanted to make sure the extractor would not clock at all since I had some stray ejection issues. This first EGW stop was a 70 series bought from Midway and may have been an earlier unit as the bottom was quite squarish.

I'm not very steady with files so I took the FPS to the variable speed disc sander. Set the sander to spin at about 60 RPM's with some 400 grit wet dry and a bit of water as a lubricant. Took .002" off each side and tested. Went in firmly and cleared the ejector slot. Next I beveled the back at a 30 degree angle then adjusted the table at 10 degrees increments to put a bit more radius on it. I don't shoot the 45 much so this one sat around for a month before some range time was made. Wow! I really liked the softened perception of the recoil impulse. The 45 usually rose a bit more with the other FPS yet now felt quite flat. Double taps were much easier.

Liked it enough to call EGW and order one for the Sig. The Sig has a sight cut and is an 80 series. I didn't want to grind down a 70 series piece. Placed an order for an 80 series with the sight cut out and from order to delivery was about 1 month. Looks like EGW-George is giving these a small radius so I left it as it was for now. This one took a bit more fitting to go in, .003" off each side and it slid in fine BUT the psuedo extractor slot the channel on that was about .001" narrower. Had to take .002" off and bevel the backside to clear. Did the cold blue routine and it went in nicely. (I was hoping only the sides would need adjustment since I wanted as much original blue left.) After the Springfield experience this one was done in about 20 minutes. Anxious to see how the Sig shoots now. :)
sig-egw-os-firing-pin-stop-2887.jpg sig-egw-os-firing-pin-stop-2888.jpg sig-egw-os-firing-pin-stop-June 05, 2017-3109.JPG

The Springfield: springfield-egw-os-firing-pin-stop-June 05, 2017-3111.JPG

Big thanks to 1911Tuner!
 
I have to agree with what others have said. I installed one on my RIA 5" 10mm and the difference was immediately felt, and seen as my brass did not travel to the next zip code. They still went pretty far, but not nearly as far as before I changed the firing pin stop. When I get around to it my Delta Elite is next.
 
had one for about 5000 rounds now, and I can say it DOES feel different. Recoil spring life is much better, recoil is slightly less, and you loose some muzzle flip. The best part is the delay in opening reduces the live round double feeds you sometimes get with week springs, and the -round in chamber, extractor behind the rim- jam you get from using wadcutter magazines. The downside, hand cycling the slide is noticable harder. I got the habit of cocking the hammer before operating the slide, though its not overwhelmingly difficult.
 
it might be good to revisit the point that this isn't a recoil reduction trick. It's about reliability, and any difference in felt recoil is incidental - A Tuner quote, and Its right.
 
Way better that ridiculously strong recoil springs which beat up the frame when chambering a round.
 
Also noted that ejection was improved. I had another thread about a stove pipe and mangled cases. The new extractor and ejector have improved ejection greatly, the FPS was the last part of this to install. Just a wee bit more extractor tuning and the gun will be sorted out. :)
 
1911Tuner's prescription for a great 1911: it's a system-- 16lb recoil spring, flat bottom FPS (tiny radius), 23lb hammer spring. (For govt model)

I have used this in a Dan Wesson Heritage as listed and in a RIA 4" midsize with the recoil spring cut down to fit the slide without binding. I'm very satisfied with the results, just like the previous posts.
 
I have it on my LW Commander and on a S&W SC 4.25" but I also give them a small radius
 
I've considered buying some before but I reload and like to be able to shoot light loads. Will this negatively effect reliability with light loads? For example I regularly shoot a 200 grain SWC (H&G #68) style bullet behind 4.5 grains HP-38. The velocity on this load is probably a little over 700 FPS.

I know that no one can tell me with certainty whether this will work or will not work with my gun and my loads but was curious with other have experimented in this area.
 
I like to shoot 147gr. loads in my 9mm 1911, and it's always had very pleasant recoil. I ordered and fit one of the EGW oversize stops and added a minimal radius to it, and have been very pleased. The recoil is "different" but I can't say for sure that it's reduced. It just made a fun gun even more fun to shoot. And hand fitting the part myself was rewarding, too.

I would recommend it.
 
when I replaced the guide/recoil spring/Plug in my Series 80 Officers Model ACP, it got a little finicky, and was tossing brass further than I liked- I had never changed any of my pistols to a Small Radius FPS, but I was aware of it, and had never heard a negative comment about it- I did a little research on it, and couldn't find any reports of it not being an improvement. I ordered and fitted a new FPS stop, filing only a small (1/8"?) radius to it, and was VERY impressed with the change. In addition to eliminating the Stove Piping issue, and putting my brass in a tidy pile at about 4:30, 6 ft away, the 3.5 pistol was now as smooth as my full size 1911.

so of course, I immediately changed over my full sized pistol as well, and I plan on doing it to any more I acquire.
 
I found it interesting that JMB designed the 1911 with a small radius FPS, I was not aware of that.

So I went to check... And here it is. The first picture is of a WWII Ithaca slide, refitted at some time in Springfield Arsenal, so the FPS is period correct but of unknown provenance.

The other two pictures are of WWI 1911s, one of them in full original conditions, the other one refinished but with all its original parts. And bingo, there you have small radius FPS, right at the beginning.

The slides are noticeably harder to start on the rack, but I'd personally consider that as a non-issue, especially considering that the wide spurred hammer makes it much easier to thumb-cock the piece.

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Maybe it will be interesting to mention, that Hi-Powers also came with small radius firing pin stop at the beginning of their manufacture. Unfortunately, I don't know when they changed to the "standart" radius.
 
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