Thread inserts for wood

[N555]

Double cringe build kinda needs a forearm.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/double-cringe-build.917226/
Sometimes referred to as "the shoulder thing that goes up".
I believe this is called a splinter forearm but I'm more of a beaver tail guy.
As you can see there's some exposed hardware, cracks, exposed glue and wood putty. My wood wokng range is usually making handles for knives, pistols occasionally, mostly making handles for hammers, axes, hatches, sledgehammers, ect.
I'm pretty sure I can do better than this:

I could just sink nuts into the wood like this, but I rather not. Hardware is 10-24 thread.
Now this leads to something I never considered before, are there any decent options for gun appropriate thread inserts for wood?

 

[Blue68f100]

There are threaded inserts for wood that screw into the wood. All that is left showing is small ring where the threads are. You would need to do all the repairs then there is 1 more option. If you have enough thickness you can use filled HD epoxy for the screws to go into.

 

[Atavar]

 

[N555]

"Foolproof"?
I like where this is going.

 

[a5werkes]

I use those threaded brass inserts to pattern various vise / device mounting footprints on the bench top.

 

[jmohme]

"Foolproof"?
I like where this is going.

Yeah. I have a thought on that, but no need to deviate the thread of coarse.

 

[BWS]

Threaded inserts get used right much in bow building. We usually make our own but,occasionally buy them.

Practice,practice,practice(install). Each application has it's own criteria...sorta. Meaning,to get the pilot hole diameter to an acceptable degree of grip,you're best off to try a cpl sizes of drills. Wood isn't metal,so having a drill/tap chart which is almost indispensible with metal.... "can" cause problems with this. Best bet is to take each application as a start up,practice on a piece very similar to actual project.

"One" reason we make them is to utilize existing,or available taps. Try not to rely on the insert "cutting" threads. WAY easier to thread the wood with a std form metal tap.... dry,no lube,clear chips a LOT.

And even after the proper drill/tap size has been determined...... the work doesn't end. Now you have to be extremely careful that your tooling is starting straight. Wood deflects the insert so it's a good idea to have some sort of guidance system(drill press can be used,not running... as a guide only).

Tough subject to "talk" about. 5 minutes here with scrap and correct tooling and you'd be miles ahead. Good luck,be patient and enjoy the process.

 

[a5werkes]

The reason I show the brass insert with the proper sized fastener installed, is that the brass insert has a single slot drive to install it. But as mentioned above, you have to undersize the tap hole size because its wood!.....then photos then show an impact driver using the hex head fastener installed to drive the insert into the wood. On the learning curve,, attempting to use just the brass insert slot will fail, as the brass is not stout enough to accept the drive force to seat it flush with the work surface.

 

[N555]

Yes I have some forearm scrap to play with.

 

[N555]

The ez-loc thread inserts are in the mail, none available locally.
My new forearm is taking shape it's to the point where it needs to be attached to the forearm hardware to take its final shape and fit.

 

[justplainbob]

The ez-loc thread inserts are in the mail, none available locally.
My new forearm is taking shape it's to the point where it needs to be attached to the forearm hardware to take its final shape and fit.

 

[justplainbob]

It helps, especially with a brass insert, to use wax or bar soap on the threads. Woodworking stores sell a dedicated screw lube. Also, if using brass, sometimes it makes it easier to tap the thread with a steel wood insert, then insert the brass insert.

 

[N555]

I was going to use a few drops of epoxy.

 

[justplainbob]

I was going to use a few drops of epoxy.

Epoxy can act as a lubricant, but usually I have had no problems with screw inserts backing out. I use them for furniture builds and for holding my reloading equipment to my bench.

 

[N555]

It's ugly where it counts.
Still need to shape it more, it snaps onto the barrels at least.
I have already stained birch plywood with this stain and I know it won't match.
The walnut stained with this stain looks great. Birch plywood stained with this stain looks like it was dipped in used motor oil.
Just hogged it out with a forsner bit.


Looks like an Ithaca?


But it works and fly season is already starting.