Threading a .22 CZ barrel?

98falstaff

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I'm wanting a .22 LR bolt gun with a threaded barrel. I have a nice CZ 452 bull barrel varmint. Would it be wise or practical to have a gunsmith thread this rifle's barrel? Or should I just buy one already threaded from the manufacturer? It wouldn't necessarily have to be a CZ but a quality rifle. Thank you in advance
 
The important part of having a barrel threaded is getting the threads true and concentric to the bore itself. Any gunsmith that is a competent machinist should be able to do this. One cannot use the outside diameter of barrel to get the treads true and concentric since a lot of times the outside is not concentric to the bore.

From what I could find, the CZ 452 is not made for easy barrel changes, otherwise I would recommend just swapping barrels.

The Savage MkII FVS is a good choice for an inexpensive rifle with threaded barrel from the factory. Others will recommend their favorite brand with threaded barrels.
 
I'm no gunsmith, that's for sure. I would imagine you'd be delighted with a bull-barreled CZ with a can on the end.

....The Savage MkII FVS is a good choice for an inexpensive rifle with threaded barrel from the factory. Others will recommend their favorite brand with threaded barrels.
Though I've never shot one, that one has made my Short List several times. Definitely worth a look. That said, when I wanted a suppressed .22 bolt gun, I went with the Ruger American Rimfire. It takes 10/22 magazines and shoots like a dream.
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I recently had a CZ 455 cut, re-crowned, and threaded by a local gunsmith and it was cheaper than a replacement barrel. The receiver is a machined cylinder so once you disassemble it down to the barrel and receiver it is easy to fit into a lathe. The barrel doesn't have to be removed. I agree that the threads need to be concentric to the bore, not the outside of the barrel. A good gun smith will have bore guides and index off those.
 
The CZ 452 is a different beast compared to the CZ 455 when it comes to swapping barrels. The 455 is designed for easy barrel changes while the 452 is not.

I am a retired tool and die maker and gunsmith and I have worked on a lot of stuff over the years. It is normal for the bore to not be concentric to the outside of the barrel. Now as long as a competent gunsmith/machinist can do the work and guarantee that the threads will be 100% concentric to the bore, then that is probably the cheapest and easiest route to go. You will want th threads to be 100% concentric to the bore especially if you plan on using a suppressor.
 
....It is normal for the bore to not be concentric to the outside of the barrel....
Not to derail the thread, but I find this to be just wild. As a man who is "mechanically reclined," I just imagined that they were concentric. Shows you what I know.
 
Not to derail the thread, but I find this to be just wild. As a man who is "mechanically reclined," I just imagined that they were concentric. Shows you what I know.

I have found that even expensive target grade barrels will be this way. Now the cheaper barrels will be worse to a certain extent. But no matter how good the machinist or machines are, the bore is never 100% concentric with the outside diameter of the barrel. It is just the nature of the beast. And that is why one should always indicate the barrel in using the bore.
 
Interesting, thank you. That Ruger might be the ticket. But my CZ would be awesome too. Would the gunsmith need the can along with the rifle for this job? I don't have one yet.
 
Interesting, thank you. That Ruger might be the ticket. But my CZ would be awesome too. Would the gunsmith need the can along with the rifle for this job? I don't have one yet.

The gunsmith should not need the suppressor in hand to thread the barrel.
 
I had my gunsmith thread a different Ruger American Rimfire for a can, but he did not need the can to do the work.

ETA: Just for reference, and because everyone loves pics, this is the (other) RAR I'm talking about.
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Your gunsmith should be aware, but you should be also - you cannot drop your can off with a gunsmith. NFA items come with custody requirements, and you cannot leave your suppressor with someone not identified on your stamp (individual or trust). There MAY be a loophole for SOT/Manufacturers, but I’m not aware of this, AND….

Any gunsmith which says they need the can in hand just to cut muzzle threads isn’t actually a gunsmith, and should be thoroughly avoided.

Absolutely yes, muzzle threads need to be indicated on the bore, NOT on the outer contour of the barrel.
 
I cut (at 16.25") and threaded my CZ 452. Once one shoots 22 suppressed it's hard to go back. I hated to do it to the 452 but the desire for quiet was too great.

And all the above that is said to make sure the gunsmith makes the threads concentric to the BORE, is correct and should be very clear when you drop it off.

The only thing the gunsmith should need is the thread pitch and diameter. The length of the threaded portion is another variable but most gunsmiths should know or be able to find out what is commonplace on length of threads.
 
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I own a pair of 452's. I think it would be better to buy a new 457 that is already threaded. 455 and 457's have barrels that are easy to change as well. I suppose a gunsmith could do it cheaper than buying a new rifle.
 
Very good info, thank you all. I talked to the smith, he's reputable and aware of making threads concentric to the bore and doesn't need the can. He does jobs for a few guys here at work, I just wasn't aware of the process. I believe I'm in good hands. Thanks again
 
It can be done and the results are satisfying if done right. I have two T/C R55 Benchmarks and had both of those threaded here in the UK:

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Once you buy one suppressor, you will be hooked!
 
I sent a few barreled actions to ADCO back in the day when I got into the suppressor game. Quick turnaround and everything was perfect. I wasn't aware of anyone local I'd trust to do the work for me.

Mark
 
... Once one shoots 22 suppressed it's hard to go back. I hated to do it to the 452 but the desire for quiet was too great....
This, absolutely. However, take your shooting venue into account. A suppressed .22 out on the farm is an absolute joy. At a range where the guy next to you has some tooth-rattling Lautenboomer . . . you still wind up needing ear protection.
 
I'm wanting a .22 LR bolt gun with a threaded barrel. I have a nice CZ 452 bull barrel varmint. Would it be wise or practical to have a gunsmith thread this rifle's barrel? Or should I just buy one already threaded from the manufacturer? It wouldn't necessarily have to be a CZ but a quality rifle. Thank you in advance
My CZ 457 ProVarmint has a factory threaded bull barrel and with my SilencerCo Sparrow suppressor it is stupid quiet. Imagine a Daisy pellet rifle, and it about the same or quieter depending on the ammo.
 
For my first try at a suppressor,I just bought a Savage Mark II off Gunbroker for 175.00.It was threaded,and as it turned out,it was also accurate,especially with the can on it.Basically the only noise it made was the bullet slapping the target,a light putt sound from the can and the springs on the bipod vibrating.Hearing the springs really opened my eyes to the amount of vibration a rifle has,even just a 22.It worked out great until my buddy who had his own can saw it in action and offered me a trade I couldn't pass up for it.I haven't yet had my 541S threaded,which was the reason for buying the Savage to begin with.I wanted to see what a 22 is like before I spent the money to have a nice rifle threaded.I had the barrel on my 541 cut off about a year after I bought it back in 1980.Back then I had no idea that cutting 6 inches off a readily available rifle would wind up being a very foolish thing to do,since they've increased so much in value.I also added an extra bedding bolt and finished the stock in hand rubbed oil.Certainly not worth the 1,000 plus dollars a good 541 will bring nowadays,but it's a great shooting 22 by any standards.
 
Not to derail the thread, but I find this to be just wild. As a man who is "mechanically reclined," I just imagined that they were concentric. Shows you what I know.

They will be on either end (well, most of the time...), but gun drills do walk a bit. Even if the bore is drilled perfectly straight on the blank, after rifling & stress relieving it won't be, and profiling the exterior between centers will make the exterior (relatively) straight, while the bore still has an arc to it.

This is why it's important to use a bore indicating rod with twin dial indicators to bring in the axial alignment of the last couple inches of bore which actually dictate bullet vector. The rest of the barrel doesn't matter.
 
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