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With the hammer fully down, and the cylinder locked:
1. Start to cock the hammer and the cylinder should begin to rotate.
2. Bring the hammer to the half-cock position and the cylinder should be able to be turned by hand (for reloading).
3. Bring the hammer back to the full-cock position and the cylinder bolt should be released just before this and then lock the cylinder.
In an ideal (but seldom seen) condition the hammer will come to full-cock when at the same time it is blocked from further movement by the top of the backstrap.
With the hammer fully down, and the cylinder locked:
1. Start to cock the hammer and the cylinder should begin to rotate.
2. Bring the hammer to the half-cock position and the cylinder should be able to be turned by hand (for reloading).
3. Bring the hammer back to the full-cock position and the cylinder bolt should be released just before this and then lock the cylinder.
In an ideal (but seldom seen) condition the hammer will come to full-cock when at the same time it is blocked from further movement by the top of the backstrap.
We might add one element to the timing progression, and maybe make it No.1.
1. Start to cock the hammer and watch to see if the cylinder locking bolt drops completely down before the cylinder begins to rotate.
Bring this up in the interest of minute (my-newt) details, as it's not all that uncommon to see a locking bolt that drops late, and wears the upper edge of the stop-wall of the locking slots in the cylinder. A really bad one will cause a binding hitch at the beginning of cocking.
Also, when the hammer is on 1/2 cock, the locking bolt should stay down low enuff to not rub on the cylinder. Sometimes this can be remedied by simply tightening loosened trigger & locking bolt screws.
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