outdoorman63
Member
any tips out there from you experienced reloaders on reloading for my garand i just got..it is a new sa 30-06...with too much of the ammo being corrosive i find it might be easier to reload..thanks
tips on reloading for garands
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Frohickey
Member
With the M1 Garand action locked to the rear...
with your right hand, pick up an enbloc clip with 8 rounds of 30-06...
with the blade of your right hand against the op rod handle...
with the enbloc chip inserted into the action locked to the rear...
push with your thumb, the enbloc clip until it clicks into place...
with your thumb safely out of the way of the bolt...
remove your hand from the op rod handle, and ...
allow to move forward, using the right hand to slightly push the op rod handle forward to get is started is okay.
The above is one safe way of reloading the M1 Garand.
(if you forget the above lesson in reloading the M1 Garand...
it doesn't matter, you will learn it sooner or later)
with your right hand, pick up an enbloc clip with 8 rounds of 30-06...
with the blade of your right hand against the op rod handle...
with the enbloc chip inserted into the action locked to the rear...
push with your thumb, the enbloc clip until it clicks into place...
with your thumb safely out of the way of the bolt...
remove your hand from the op rod handle, and ...
allow to move forward, using the right hand to slightly push the op rod handle forward to get is started is okay.
The above is one safe way of reloading the M1 Garand.
(if you forget the above lesson in reloading the M1 Garand...
it doesn't matter, you will learn it sooner or later)
robear
Member
I think he means reloading the CARTRIDGES, not the RIFLE..
R
R
OP
OP
outdoorman63
Member
yep
ammo reloading..sorry
ammo reloading..sorry
I am doing nothing special....In some mixed cases I am loading 50.0 gr. Varget, a 150 gr. Winchester FMJBT bullet, and a CCI #34 primer. These shoot just fine in my DCM Garand.
Note: The primer used may be somewhat unfamiliar- it is the equivalent of a CCI #250, with thicker cup material, specifically designed for use in military rifles with floating firing pins. You will find the use of this primer recommended in such rifles in the Speer #13 manual. If you examine a cartridge that has been chambered but not fired (this will also work in an AR-15) you will see a small indent from the floating firing pin coming forward by its own inertia when the bolt closes. I just use these primers (and the #41 small primer in the .223) as an additional precaution against slamfires. For this reason, I would never use Federal primers to reload for a Garand or other rifle using a floating firing pin, given their reputation for sensitivity. On the other side of the coin, I should point out that I have never experienced a slamfire, this is ONLY a precaution.
Note: The primer used may be somewhat unfamiliar- it is the equivalent of a CCI #250, with thicker cup material, specifically designed for use in military rifles with floating firing pins. You will find the use of this primer recommended in such rifles in the Speer #13 manual. If you examine a cartridge that has been chambered but not fired (this will also work in an AR-15) you will see a small indent from the floating firing pin coming forward by its own inertia when the bolt closes. I just use these primers (and the #41 small primer in the .223) as an additional precaution against slamfires. For this reason, I would never use Federal primers to reload for a Garand or other rifle using a floating firing pin, given their reputation for sensitivity. On the other side of the coin, I should point out that I have never experienced a slamfire, this is ONLY a precaution.
I've used scads of Federal primers
in my M1. Also Winchester, CCI. Never a problem. I think this slamfire business is overdone. Yes, it can happen, but if your rifle is in proper order and you always load from the clip or a single-loading device, it won't happen. 'course, you also must be sure to seat primers fully; a 'high' primer could slamfire. Headspace must be correct, and you must be sure to size your brass properly, so get a case gauge and use it. Too much sizing is as dangerous as too little. I have a sizing die set up for my M1 only so I don't have to fuss.
Other than that, M1 is easy to load for. I've used H4895, Win 748, IMR 4054 with good results, all with 150 gr FMJ or M72 173 gr match bullets. Get a good book, like Scott Duff's M1 books or the NRA booklet, and go to it.
in my M1. Also Winchester, CCI. Never a problem. I think this slamfire business is overdone. Yes, it can happen, but if your rifle is in proper order and you always load from the clip or a single-loading device, it won't happen. 'course, you also must be sure to seat primers fully; a 'high' primer could slamfire. Headspace must be correct, and you must be sure to size your brass properly, so get a case gauge and use it. Too much sizing is as dangerous as too little. I have a sizing die set up for my M1 only so I don't have to fuss.
Other than that, M1 is easy to load for. I've used H4895, Win 748, IMR 4054 with good results, all with 150 gr FMJ or M72 173 gr match bullets. Get a good book, like Scott Duff's M1 books or the NRA booklet, and go to it.
30Cal
Member
4064 will usually give the best results and the 168gr bullets are tough to beat. 4895 is always another good choice. Don't shoot with anything much slower than 4064--that long M1 oprod can be bent with the slower powders because they produce pressure at the gas system in excess of what the rifle was designed for.
Don't expect astonishing things from the standard ball bullets (M72 and M2). I use WLR primers FWIW, although I uniform my primer pockets and check each primer is seated below flush. FL resizing is pretty much the standard practice for gas guns for reasons of reliable feeding. I agree with what's said earlier about the case gage. You'll need to keep a close eye on your brass, and you'll probably find that they need to be tossed after 5 shootings give or take.
Don't expect astonishing things from the standard ball bullets (M72 and M2). I use WLR primers FWIW, although I uniform my primer pockets and check each primer is seated below flush. FL resizing is pretty much the standard practice for gas guns for reasons of reliable feeding. I agree with what's said earlier about the case gage. You'll need to keep a close eye on your brass, and you'll probably find that they need to be tossed after 5 shootings give or take.
Sunray
Member
It's no big deal loading for a Garand. You must full length resize and follow your manual religiously. I agree with Khornet. This 'slam fire' stuff is nonsense or purely operator failure. Never seen one in 30 plus years of loading for my rifle. Nor have I ever heard of one from other guys I know. Regular safety measures for reloading is all that's required. I do suspect poorly seated primers may be possible when loading with a progressive loader though. Mind you, thousands of rounds of .45 ACP get loaded on them every year and we never hear of any 'slam fires' with a self-loading pistol.
I use IMR 4064 for both 180 grain and 168 grain bullets. I've loaded my brass lots more than 5 times too. Same brass in either my M-1 or my 03A4. The "hotness" of the load is what is hard on cases. Not using them in a semi. And it's not so much the corrosiveness of the ammo. It's the near total lack of surplus(.30-06 hasn't been used by your military for 40 some years) and the fact that you'll have much better ammo by loading it yourself.
I use IMR 4064 for both 180 grain and 168 grain bullets. I've loaded my brass lots more than 5 times too. Same brass in either my M-1 or my 03A4. The "hotness" of the load is what is hard on cases. Not using them in a semi. And it's not so much the corrosiveness of the ammo. It's the near total lack of surplus(.30-06 hasn't been used by your military for 40 some years) and the fact that you'll have much better ammo by loading it yourself.
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