Tisas D10 10mm brass crushing

Jdague12

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2022
Messages
137
What might be the cause of this? This has only happened maybe 3 or 4 times out of close to a thousand rounds fired. It has never failed to load the next round either. Has never jammed. The Tisas has a very stiff slide. By the way, it’s an awesome firearm. More curiosity than concern. It’s a 180gr JHP loaded with 10gr of Blue Dot.
IMG_8892.jpeg IMG_8891.jpeg IMG_8894.jpeg
 
This hasn’t happened with my D10 though I don’t have as many rounds through it as you do. I can confirm mine has a stiff slide, too. Much, much stiffer than my SR1911 in 10mm.
 
Are you SURE those are from your gun? The way that would happen, as mentioned above, is for the case to get caught and smashed when the slide closes. HOWEVER, when that happens, the case is stuck in place and must be manually removed. The gun is going to jam for sure with that kind of an issue. If you are not ever seeing malfunctions ("has never jammed"), I don't see how those cases could have come from your gun.
 
Those are definitely not getting completely ejected and the slide is closing on them.
Check the extractor. You may have something caught under it such as a sheared sliver of brass.
I had to adjust the extractor on my 9mm Tisas Duty. It was leaving the last case after it locked back on the last round in the magazine lying on the top of the magazine.
Bending it “slightly”, and lightly filing the hook to give it just a little more bite corrected it.
 
Your load probably isn't hot enough. I would try increasing your load or reducing the recoil spring weight.
He stated 10.0gr of BlueDot. Not exactly tossing nerf balls!
About 1,100 in my experience. Near approximation of most current “full power” 10mm factory loads. I doubt that even with extra power springs he would see this.
Unless he has an extractor problem.
I’d call SDS and see if they will send him another extractor…
 
I had the same thing with my 45 ACP Tisas, i.e smashing the last or next to last round in the magazine. It started about 400-500 rounds from new. I ended up just tweeking a tiny more tension on the extractor and it went away. About 500 more rounds and just the other weekend I was shooting it and had a re-occurence. It seemed to be an isolated occurence but I guess if it re-occurs I'll have to tweak it again or consider replacing it.
 
Are you SURE those are from your gun? The way that would happen, as mentioned above, is for the case to get caught and smashed when the slide closes. HOWEVER, when that happens, the case is stuck in place and must be manually removed. The gun is going to jam for sure with that kind of an issue. If you are not ever seeing malfunctions ("has never jammed"), I don't see how those cases could have come from your gun.
That’s what has me baffled. They eject and have never jammed. With that kind of crushing, they should be jamming
 
I’ll tear it down and check. Appreciate the advice. I’m just baffled how much it crushed, but still cycled.
 
That's what makes me think that maybe someone else has shot a 10mm in the area and you're seeing casings ejected from their pistol, not yours. I don't think it's possible for a gun to damage empties in that particular way without jamming.
 
That's what makes me think that maybe someone else has shot a 10mm in the area and you're seeing casings ejected from their pistol, not yours. I don't think it's possible for a gun to damage empties in that particular way without jamming.
That sounds like a strong possibility.
He can take a sharpie an draw a line on the base of his cases before shoots so he'll know it was his or not.
I did this when I used pick up my brass at public ranges.
 
I went through a similar issue with a DW CBOB 10mm back in 2010. Bought it used (across the internet), spent brass looked a lot like yours (not every round, but every 4th-5th round), prior owner said he "never noticed it".

Possible, but unlikely. In all these years I have seldom found any 10mm brass at the range...most 10mm shooters are handloaders (as am I) and being a handloader I found that condition infuriating and unacceptable.

Posted here-and-there and got a number of replies. It's been a while but IIRC DW said "extractor" and I changed and tweaked on it multiple times to no avail. (I was able to make the feeding worse LOL, but no effect on the condition of the spent brass.)

Finally ended up filing on the ejector, shortened it a bit (seems that they use a lengthened ejector) and shaped it to control the direction of the ejected brass. Took several tries to get it right but I still have the 1911 and no smashed brass.

If so, it seems that the slide is not closing on the brass (as I had initially thought, and that others have postulated), but the brass is being ejected early and banging the slide on the way out. That would explain the "no jamming" part. I will admit that the amount of damage strains credulity, but brass is soft, SS is hard and the brass is being ejected forcibly...until I have a better explanation, that's the one I'm sticking with.

Not sure if Tisas uses an extended ejector but I think it might be standard fare for 10mm 1911s. Don't remember how much I shortened it, might have been .040 and it might have been a bit more. I think I have some pics of other people's ejectors, and could take some of mine if it would help.

I don't know if it is bad form to post a link to another site, but if you pm me I will find and send one or more of the threads I posted back then.

It's a fun cartridge, don't give up on it too early.

Best regards, Rich in TX
 

Attachments

  • 10mm_mangled_brass.jpg
    10mm_mangled_brass.jpg
    89.2 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
I went through a similar issue with a DW CBOB 10mm back in 2010. Bought it used (across the internet), spent brass looked a lot like yours (not every round, but every 4th-5th round), prior owner said he "never noticed it".

Possible, but unlikely. In all these years I have seldom found any 10mm brass at the range...most 10mm shooters are handloaders (as am I) and being a handloader I found that condition infuriating and unacceptable.

Posted here-and-there and got a number of replies. It's been a while but IIRC DW said "extractor" and I changed and tweaked on it multiple times to no avail. (I was able to make the feeding worse LOL, but no effect on the condition of the spent brass.)

Finally ended up filing on the ejector, shortened it a bit (seems that they use a lengthened ejector) and shaped it to control the direction of the ejected brass. Took several tries to get it right but I still have the 1911 and no smashed brass.

If so, it seems that the slide is not closing on the brass (as I had initially thought, and that others have postulated), but the brass is being ejected early and banging the slide on the way out. That would explain the "no jamming" part. I will admit that the amount of damage strains credulity, but brass is soft, SS is hard and the brass is being ejected forcibly...until I have a better explanation, that's the one I'm sticking with.

Not sure if Tisas uses an extended ejector but I think it might be standard fare for 10mm 1911s. Don't remember how much I shortened it, might have been .040 and it might have been a bit more. I think I have some pics of other people's ejectors, and could take some of mine if it would help.

I don't know if it is bad form to post a link to another site, but if you pm me I will find and send one or more of the threads I posted back then.

It's a fun cartridge, don't give up on it too early.

Best regards, Rich in TX
Trust me, never gonna give up on my 10’s. I’ll email Tisas and get an idea from them and tinker around with ejector.

Never a bad idea to check other forums. Tons of knowledge out there.
 
Back
Top