To swage or ream

[CQB45ACP]

Many manufacturers try to reach the lowest common denominator/customer. Many reloaders are not very mechanically inclined and not "handy" with tools (not a criticism). So reloading tool manufacturers advertise their tools to reach reloaders that are not familiar with the difference between a swage, ream or cutting tool, hence "primer pocket tool" can be one of several tools to do something to a primer pocket...

IIRC, I don't remember any RCBS, Lyman have any primer pocket tools resembling a countersink, and Lee makes something that looks close but in shape only...

I am not trying to be a "vocabulary Nazi" and you can call magazines clips or cartridges bullets, but just trying to make myself clear. I cut primer crimps out with a plain old, everyday countersink...

I have many countersinks of various sizes and used to use them to deburr flash holes. I could’ve but didn’t think to use one to remove a crimp. But, my complaint would be trying to ensure you’re holding it properly vertical so the beveling would work its magic and not get it all “catty wompus” as my dad used to say.

So, all that’s to say, I like the “pocket tools” mentioned above and have the Lyman. It’s reamer bit makes far far easier work of keeping the correct angle.

 

[Tilos]

Swage as in actually RE-swage because that's the way the primer pocket was formed.
I always de-prime off the progressive, before wet tumbling.
So...
When I batch de-prime individually/single stage, I can feel a crimped primer by the extra effort to de-prime it and remove the crimp with a handheld chamfer tool.
I also chamfer and de-burr the case mouth as it is going to be only the 2nd firing/loading of any case that has a crimped primer.

I suppose I could have a primer swager setup for when I find a crimped primer but could not de-burr the case mouth with that.

I have found that 95% of all priming problems in progressive reloading can be traced back to crimped primers being sucked back in and indexed over to the priming station or primer smooge tying up the priming pin so it cannot completely retract.
De-priming and removing the primer smooge via wet/pin tumbling mitigates both of those problems. (for me).
jmo,
.
Edit: If I ever found way more crimped primers, not just a few, I would probably add a separate primer pocket swaging operation to my process.
.
.

 

[mdi]

"I have many countersinks of various sizes and used to use them to deburr flash holes. I could’ve but didn’t think to use one to remove a crimp. But, my complaint would be trying to ensure you’re holding it properly vertical so the beveling would work its magic and not get it all “catty wompus” as my dad used to say."

Hint, turn the work, keep tool stationary. Even cut in an ID...

 

[CQB45ACP]

"I have many countersinks of various sizes and used to use them to deburr flash holes. I could’ve but didn’t think to use one to remove a crimp. But, my complaint would be trying to ensure you’re holding it properly vertical so the beveling would work its magic and not get it all “catty wompus” as my dad used to say."

Hint, turn the work, keep tool stationary. Even cut in an ID...

Well now you tell me…I paid $41 for the Lyman

 

[Remington1911]

Many manufacturers try to reach the lowest common denominator/customer. Many reloaders are not very mechanically inclined and not "handy" with tools (not a criticism). So reloading tool manufacturers advertise their tools to reach reloaders that are not familiar with the difference between a swage, ream or cutting tool, hence "primer pocket tool" can be one of several tools to do something to a primer pocket...

IIRC, I don't remember any RCBS, Lyman have any primer pocket tools resembling a countersink, and Lee makes something that looks close but in shape only...

I am not trying to be a "vocabulary Nazi" and you can call magazines clips or cartridges bullets, but just trying to make myself clear. I cut primer crimps out with a plain old, everyday countersink...

IMHO sometimes you do need to lay out the "real" meaning of the words, if nothing else to make sure everyone is on the same page. I know I am real bad at using "common" terms for things, and I also have fun with spelling of some words, boolits for example. This again I think is all well and good, and fun IF we all know just what the topic is. With something like reloading this is likely as close as many people get to "machine work", and really that is what it is. Your case trimmer is a real simple lathe that just takes some off the end. You are working the metal and this is why you see terms like "work hardened" and annealing when talking about this end of the hobby.

I think it is good you lay out just what the difference is between the different tools.

 

[CQB45ACP]

This is completely unscientific.

Just for fun, I took my Lyman tool for a test drive and reamed 50 or so 45ACP cases — Federal & WCC.

In about 3/4 the reamer made little or no contact thus no reaming on the upper edge. In the others there was resistance and therefore some reaming.

I let the tool do most of the work so applied only enough pressure to turn the cutter until no resistance was felt/no more cutting.

I then primed 25 cases. Half reamed. Half not. I didn’t notice any difference but even if I had it likely would’ve been my imagination.

Now I have to worry…why no contact in so many cases?

 

[AJC1]

This is completely unscientific.

Just for fun, I took my Lyman tool for a test drive and reamed 50 or so 45ACP cases — Federal & WCC.

In about 3/4 the reamer made little or no contact thus no reaming on the upper edge. In the others there was resistance and therefore some reaming.

I let the tool do most of the work so applied only enough pressure to turn the cutter until no resistance was felt/no more cutting.

I then primed 25 cases. Half reamed. Half not. I didn’t notice any difference but even if I had it likely would’ve been my imagination.

Now I have to worry…why no contact in so many cases?

Time to break out the pin guages.

 

[ballman6711]

Now I have to worry…why no contact in so many cases?

Measure the reamer, it's possible it's undersized by a thou or two.

chris

 

[Hooda Thunkit]

What "reamer" do you use?

I'm not sure what company produced them. I'm not even certain how long I've had them, or where I got them; perhaps in a trade?

Also no idea who made the handles.

I use the handle if there are only a few to cut, but if there are many I will unscrew the cutter and chuck it in the drill. Drill press or cordless, depending on how many there are.

Slow down the drill, easy does it.

 

[Yamifrk]

Neither of the listed options. I use the rcbs crimp remover which only chamfers the pocket and has zero chance of ruining the case. The tool is very handy and I use it on cases that need a little chamfer that don't have a crimp but are just a ptia to prime. S and b 38 and 357 brass come to mind.

This was a great piece of advice…I bought one and it’s removing just the crimp, exactly what I needed. Picked up a swage tool as well but not as handy or as quick as the reamer thanks AJC1

 

[AK Hunter]

I use the RCBS bench swage but I have found that the primers still get caught on the edge of the primer pocket so for the .223/5.56 I champher & or ream then swage. It's just to be sure the primer pocket is open & I don't crush any primers. Primers are expensive & I have plenty of brass, so if I over do the swage it's not a problem.

 

[Yamifrk]

I use the RCBS bench swage but I have found that the primers still get caught on the edge of the primer pocket so for the .223/5.56 I champher & or ream then swage. It's just to be sure the primer pocket is open & I don't crush any primers. Primers are expensive & I have plenty of brass, so if I over do the swage it's not a problem.

I bought the same thing also but like you I wasn’t liking all my results I was getting. The rcbs crimp removal “reamer”, I’m sure I haven’t called it the proper term for some…seems to be doing a great job.

 

[AK Hunter]

I bought the same thing also but like you I wasn’t liking all my results I was getting. The rcbs crimp removal “reamer”, I’m sure I haven’t called it the proper term for some…seems to be doing a great job.

I just use the cheap pocket ream from Lyman. I take the tip off of the handle & put it in the drill.
It only needs about two turns & the crimp is gone.

 

[243winxb]

mixed head stamped brass

The web thickness can be an issue when swagging, with some units . Reaming just removes the problem area.

Very old internet photo that may not apply now.

 

[CQB45ACP]

The web thickness can be an issue when swagging, with some units . Reaming just removes the problem area. View attachment 1109009 View attachment 1109009



Very old internet photo that may not apply now.

I presume this is also true of pistol brass?