To Tru Oil, or to not, Tru Oil... That is the question!

[mickeydim468]

After finding this thread; Alright, calling you stock refinishing experts! I am wondering if my idea to Tru Oil my stock is a good idea or not.

I would like to hear both sides of the argument here. Especially the people who have used and had good luck with either method.

I am putting a whole lot of time on my new stock, and I certainly do not want to mess it up by choosing an inferior finish.

I will tell you that I had planned on using Tru Oil on my project, using similar techniques to apply it by rubbing it in with the heel of my hand with lots of pressure and friction to get the substance deep into the pores of the wood for at least the first three coats or so. Maybe more if I think it is needed. Then keep going and cutting it off with 0000 steel wool between every coat, then doing again.

So, here is your chance to change my mind or validate my choice, whichever side of the coin you are on, I do not mind. I just need some good advice, and the people who posted in the thread listed above have started to swing my pendulum their way already, so you Tru Oil users will have to work hard at keeping me on your side of the fence.

Thanks all!

Let the debate begin. Hmmm, This would be a good poll! I think I will make it a poll!

Well, I just checked... The poll thingy* is broken!

* - Thingy = short version of thing-a-ma-jig which is the technical term for whoosie-whatsit, which is similar to a widget! I hope this clears that up!


Mike

 

[jimmyraythomason]

Pick either side of the fence that suits you. For me I no longer use anything but Tru-oil. It does everything I could ask of a good oil finish. Plus it is available just about anywhere.

 

[ArmedBear]

I haven't had to try so hard, but I've used Tru-Oil.

There's probably little sense in rubbing too hard after the first coat, which seals up the wood pretty well, except on end grain where it may take a few coats.

What's the "other" method? There are many sorts of stock finishes.

 

[Flatbush Harry]

I'm a big believer in Fairtrimmer's Military oX for my M1A and M1 stocks.

FH

 

[LEVRLOVR]

Firm believer in Formbys Tung oil.

I have used the poly finishes on a couple of other rifles and i don't like working with it or the way the stocks turn out.

660 stock with 4 or 5 coats of Formbys and steel wool in between.

 

[jcwit]

I like Tru-Oil but now use Min-Wax Antique Oil Finish applied in the same way as Tru-Oil. Never tried Fairtrimmers Finish but understand it also super as a gunstock finish.

One thing about the hand applied finishes is if something does happen it is alot easier to repair.

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

When I was a kid I bought a shotgun that needed refinishing. My Dad got some tru-oil and we put on about 4 coats as I recall. When it was finished it was much better than new.

 

[mickeydim468]

For me I no longer use anything but Tru-oil. It does everything I could ask of a good oil finish. Plus it is available just about anywhere.

What are some of your expectations of a good oil finish? And yes, I agree it is available anywhere, I even have some here that I have already bought for this project. I just didn't really know what else to use. This is my first "New" stock that I will be using it on. I have used Tru Oil on a re-finish project, but it was a beater stock and I didn't really care what it turned out like.

There's probably little sense in rubbing too hard after the first coat, which seals up the wood pretty well, except on end grain where it may take a few coats.

Like I said, I will be playing by ear, so to speak. If one coat does what I want after rubbing it in good and hard, then that will be what I do. I figure I would try it for at least the first three coats, just in case.

What's the "other" method? There are many sorts of stock finishes.

Well, the link I included is a discussion about Linseed Oil and Tung Oil, which would be the "other" method.

I'm a big believer in Fairtrimmer's Military oX for my M1A and M1 stocks.

What the heck is that?

I have used the poly finishes on a couple of other rifles and i don't like working with it or the way the stocks turn out.

What didn't you like about working with it? More importantly, what didn't you like about the way they turned out?

Thanks guys... This is great stuff!

Mike

 

[hoghunting]

The problem with many oil finishes is they don't seal the wood from moisture, they may slow down absorption, but they won't eliminate it. I use a stock filler to fill in all the pores, then use a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and spar urethane. It is thin like water and I keep applying coating after coating until the wood no longer absorbs it. Then use a 75/25 mix of spar urethane/mineral spirits to layer the finish coats. Spar urethane also has natural oils so the finish will expand and contract with the stock.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

I use Tru-oil as a sealant first by applying a faily heavy(by oil finish standards) coat and let it dry completely(at LEAST 24 hrs) then come back with 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper, wet with mineral spirits or mineral spirits mixed with Tru-oil. I generally do this at least twice. The progress of the stock will determine how many times. After the wood is sealed(which Tru-oil does VERY well,BTW) I then use very thin hand rubbed coats applied every 12 hours. After 4 or 5 coats(sometimes more sometimes less) I again use wet or dry sandpaper but 600 grit this time. If I am satisfied I then top off with Birchwood Casey's Gunstock Wax or similar. If I want a softer satiny finish,I buff it with Rottenstone on a felt pad moistened with BLO(boiled linseed oil).

 

[ArmedBear]

I figure I would try it for at least the first three coats, just in case.

Oh yeah. 3 coats MINIMUM. I was just saying that the first coat does the soaking in and sealing, and pushing harder after that probably won't do any more soaking in. You have to get that done on the first coat, with the exception of end grain or other extra-absorbent spots on the wood. You will find that nice wood with figure soaks up Tru-Oil unevenly. That's one reason you need a number of coats: to even up the finish.

The problem with many oil finishes is they don't seal the wood from moisture, they may slow down absorption, but they won't eliminate it.

Tru-Oil is an oil/varnish blend, and it seals up wood very well. I agree with you about actual oil finishes, but that's not what Tru-Oil is. It's a product designed to give oil-finish luster with the sealing properties of spar varnish, instead of the normal varnish appearance of a shiny "shell".

 

[mickeydim468]

Here is sort of what I want my finish to look like. Not the stock color or shape but the wood being highlighted and looking beautiful through the satiny gloss finish.

This is a picture from the Weatherby site of a Mark XXII.

Which method will get me there? and which will do it most effectively to seal the wood as well?

Mike

 

[Cosmoline]

I started out using tru oil, but after converting to BLO I've never gone back. TO is a polymer compound. You're basically coating the stock in plastic. It makes a tougher finish I suppose, but it looks too glossy to me. BLO, applied by hand in thin coat after thin coat with extra fine steel wool in between, will produce a fantastic finish without too much gloss or that "plastic" look. Tung is also excellent.

I've never had a problem with BLO not sealing the stock. If you're going to take the rifle out hunting you just use a layer of gunstock wax and nothing gets through.

OTOH, if you WANT the ultra high gloss plastic type look, then TO is your stuff.

 

[ArmedBear]

Cosmo- If you use four-ought steel wool in between coats, several coats of Tru-Oil, then finish with a light steel-wool rub followed by a rough terri-cloth towel, it will not look glossy. It looks like an oil finish, but it's a protective shell.

It will only look glossy if you use it wrong, which is to say, like varnish.

WRT that Weatherby stock, that's just gloss urethane AFAIK. Tru-Oil isn't how you get that look, IMO.

 

[mshootnit]

If I had it to do over I would start with boiled linseed oil. I would get the stock ready for finish sanding by dry sanding till its clean wood and smooth using a block. Then I would start with a wet hand rubbed coat of blo (after heating the oil till it was about too hot to touch) then immediately wet sand with 320 grit evenly to fill the grain. Then let dry. Next day dry sand to even the stock and apply another wet coat with wet sanding again; essentially the same process as the first time. I would repeat this basic process using finer grit until I was at 600 grit. Then I would start hand rubbing even hot coats of oil on the stock and letting these dry 24 hours then burnish with 0000 steel wool working with the grain. I would do about 7 coats that way, then finish off with 2-3 coats of Renaissance wax.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

One of the oils in Tru-Oil is linseed oil. I believe it also contains tung oil.

 

[Cosmoline]

I was under the impression that its full composition was a proprietary secret.

 

[ArmedBear]

One of the oils in Tru-Oil is linseed oil. I believe it also contains tung oil.

AFAIK that's right.

It's used and liked by custom wooden fishing rod makers, guitar makers, etc. The idea is that you don't leave it glossy, but rub it down to a nice satin sheen with very fine steel wool (and I like to finish it off with a rough towel).

 

[smokin hot AR10]

I have used Tru Oil on a few rifles. I love the feel and smell of it after it has dried. The only reason I stopped using it is I like to use Gun Cleaners like Break Free Powder Blast. The cleaner will soften and strip the Tru Oil off the wood over time. When I get the time, I will most likely refinish them with Dura Coat products. I have used their paints many times and I am very happy with them.

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/item-d...image=TCC1.gif&CFID=43352329&CFTOKEN=79343215

 

[jimmyraythomason]

This may help.<http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/msdspdfs/23123-TO22.pdf>3. COMPOSITION / INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS : 56% Mineral Spirits, 33% Modified oil(?) and 11% Linseed oil.

 

[Birddog1911]

People more knowledgable than me, but of course it is their opinion, have stated that pure tung oil will seal the wood against the weather better than BLO. When I finished my rifles, I was looking more for a little authenticity, so I went with the original finishes. 6 or so coats of BLO only on my Garand, and 10 coats of pure tung oil on my M1A.



Now Tru Oil will not darken as fast as BLO or tung oil, so that is a plus for it.

 

[ArmedBear]

All I know is, it tastes a lot like Yukon Jack.

Now Tru Oil will not darken as fast as BLO or tung oil, so that is a plus for it.

My oldest walnut gun with a Tru-Oil finish hasn't changed its appearance since I built the thing 30 years ago. Tru-Oil is a sealant, and doesn't absorb crud when you use the gun.

OTOH I have some oil-finished grips on a Super Blackhawk, and they're nearly black. I have to see if I can clean the wood and use Tru-Oil on them. Anyone know how to get crud out of wood?

 

[MichaelK]

I've applied both Tru-oil, and tung oil to two stocks. I was pleased with the results of both. Here's what I do that worked very well for me.

Take a small volume of your oil of choice, say 25 ml and dilute it half and half with 25 ml of mineral spirits (1 part oil to 1 part thinner). Apply this thinned oil to the stock with a peice of T-shirt cotton, and let it soak in. Save the remaining oil in a tightly capped container.

On day 2 add an equal volume of oil to the remaining oil from day #1. This slightly thickened mix is now 2 parts oil to 1 part thinner. Rub the stock again with a clean fresh patch of T-shirt cotton. Allow to dry overnight.

On day 3, coat the stock again, this time with straight oil. Allow to dry overnight. The thin first coats soak deeply into the wood, but the subsequent coats build up a thicker surface coat that won't chip off.

On day 4 rub in another coat, but with 400 grit sandpaper instead of cotton. Sand the finish down to bare wood and be carefull to spread the grimmy oil over every single surface pore in the wood. Allow to dry overnight.

On day 5, don't panic because your stock is supposed to look like something thrown out in the trash. Lightly sand through the surface crud, down to the top of the filled pores, then wipe off the crud with a clean T-shirt cotton soaked in oil. Continue to sand and wipe till all the surface crud is replaced with smooth clean finish. Once this coat dries you'll be struck by the beauty of your stock. You can now finish up with a very light final coat with a clean cotton patch and your done.

 

[hub]

I agree you don't need to rub it in hard to get it deep in the grain, I've done several so far and the best method I have found is to dilute it. First two coats I use 25% Tru oil, 75% mineral spirits, next two coats, 50% Tru oil, 50% mineral spirits, next two 75-25 and finally 100% tru oil for as many coats as I feel it needs to get the finish I want. I also wet sand using the same tru oil/mineral spirits mix in between each coat starting with 600 wet sand paper and on to 1200 wet sand paper.

I am doing a Garand as we speak and I trying to decide how to do the final finish. I've got almost enough coats on right now but not sure if I want to wet sand and wipe the final coat off or try Birchwood Casey's stock sheen. Sorry to hijack but does anyone have experience with the stock sheen.

 

[mickeydim468]

I've got almost enough coats on right now but not sure if I want to wet sand and wipe the final coat off or try Birchwood Casey's stock sheen. Sorry to hijack but does anyone have experience with the stock sheen.

Don't apologize for hijacking the thread, that was another question I was going to ask but forgot to. So, Thank you for asking a pertinent question.

Does anyone have an answer or experience with Birchwood Casey's Stock Sheen product? If so, great, good, bad, or indifferent?

Mike