I use it but prefer to use it to clean up old finishes.
Have you used it to knock some of the gloss down when using tru oil? If not I may try the rottenstone meathod.
Thanks for the info guys, keep it coming!
No problem. I've done several stocks now using tru oil so maybe I can give you a few suggestions. It sucks to learn the hard way. That's why I was asking about the stock sheen. I have always just left the glossy finish and was happy with the out come but for the garand I would still like the grain to look "deep" yet with some sort of a satin finish.
OK so
my suggestions. I am not saying they are right and I'm sure some will disagree but this is what has worked for me so far, but I am still learning more every time.
First and most of all be patient. If you want it to look good don't rush it, each step takes time, time to properly prepare, apply and let dry. Do it right or you won't be happy with it. I think all of my stocks have came out pretty good just some took longer than others from fixing mistakes or redoing something that didn't look right.
Don't sand the old finish off, use some sort of cleaner, I use oven cleaner and the dishwasher and have had no problems. The hot water may cause the wood to swell and crack from what I have heard but it has not happened to me so far. The first stock I did I sanded it off and it took forever and I still didn't get all the old stain out until I ran it through the dishwasher. I also didn't really know what I was doing and rounded off some corners a bit too much and dulled the checkering a little. I think the dishwasher also helps with getting some dings out of the wood, if you choose not to use a dishwasher you can use a hot iron and a wet wash rag to raise some dents back up.
Like I stated before, cut the tru oil with mineral spirits for several coats. I think it helps it get deeper into the grain and it is also easier to apply and doesn't get "tacky" as quickly. It also doesn't run as bad because you simply cannot slap too much on with out noticing runs. I think the problem people have with runs it that they can't tell that they put too much on, the tru oil is so thick it may look fine as soon as your done putting it on but a few minutes later after it has settled the runs start to build up.
Next would be how to apply, I started by using my fingers or the palm of my hand but I always seem to get it everywhere and I swear I could just look at it and it would get finger prints or smears somewhere. Next I tried clothes, I used several different ones, old t-shirts, microfiber wax applicators, and linen(old pillow sheet). I get fuzz balls with the first two and the old pillow sheet worked but not a whole lot better than my hand. I also tried paint brushes, the hair type worked OK but seemed to leave lines in the finish. My favorite thing to use now is the el cheapo foam paint brushes from harbor freight. They hold the oil well and if you just use the tip to dip when you get too much oil you can kinda lay the brush down a little to pull up the excess oil with the still dry part of the brush. Also if you get to a dry spot you can smash the sponge down to wick some oil out and keep on trucking with out having to dip again getting too much oil on for one little spot. For checkering I found it's best to just tape it off and do a few light coats with a old or cheap toothbrush. I doesn't' take much tru oil and one or two coats will do, I like using the toothbrush because it keeps the checkering from getting gummed up and if you didn't sand them down like I did the first time they should still look sharp.
Last thing I can think of right now is sanding. I would tape off all checkering with the blue painters tape. I usually start sanding with 150 grit after I strip the old finish with oven cleaner and or dishwasher. When I get the surface imperfections out I use 400 grit to smooth things down before adding stain and or finish. Once I start adding finish I only use wet sand paper using the tru oil/ mineral spirits mix as the wetting agent. I do this on every coat. Once it has been wet sanded I wipe all the old sludge off with a lint free cloth (old sheet or pillow case works good) and put a new coat on to dry overnight. The first four to six coats I use 600grit wet sand and all the rest I use 1200.
Sorry this post is so long but I think getting the right finish is kind of a trial and error sort of thing and every time I do a new stock I find something else I want to do different in the meathod of doing it.
Good luck be sure to take and post a lot of pictures of your progress. Unfortunately with some of the ones I have done I didn't take many pictures. I do have some of my last two and maybe I take a few of the Garand as well as soon as I'm done and put them up here.
