Top Breaks, Break Tops, Tip-Ups, Show ‘Em if You Got ‘Em

[Speedo66]

Just got this today, and has renewed my interest in break tops, or whatever you wish to label them. It’s an Iver Johnson 3rd model in S&W .38.

I know there must be lots more of you here with all kinds, from American to British, to Belgian, etc., high and low end.

Let’s see what you got!

 

[DS-10-SPEED]

I had this S&W .32 years ago, sold it.


Now the only one I have is a modern NAA Ranger II.

 

[Tallball]

I bought this little H&R because I wanted a top-break, and this one will fire 32 S&W long, which isn't that hard to find.

It's fun, but the sights are so small that it's kind of a "point and shoot" revolver.

A very cheap investment for something so entertaining.

Harrington and Richardson top-break 32 caliber revolver

• Tallball
• Dec 8, 2018

 

[AlexanderA]

I think this is my favorite top break revolver. Enfield No. 2 Mk. I from 1930. Shown with the original wood grips (it's wearing the improved WW2 grips), and an original British lanyard. This is in .38 S&W (also known as the .380/200).

The Mk. 2 was double action only, with no hammer spur.

 

[silicosys4]

The finish and grips are pretty roached, but the mechanics and bore are mint. One of these days I'll find some .38S&W and shoot it.

 

[mcb]

I am a big fan of top break revolvers especially Webleys. Wish I had more but this is my current top break collection. They are all shooters.

Top to bottom: unshaved Webley Mark VI in 455 Webley (1916), Webley Mark IV in 38/200 (1982 one of the last 250 made), Iver Johnson Safety Automatic in 38 S&W blackpowder (Second Model ~1906).

 

[BLACKHAWKNJ]

IIRC on the Iver Johnson the position of the owl's head on the grips indicates if it is a BP or smokeless revolver. Chin points to the left, BP, to the right smokeless.

 

[Mark_Mark]

The finish and grips are pretty roached, but the mechanics and bore are mint. One of these days I'll find some .38S&W and shoot it.
View attachment 1166101

I’m now loaded 38 S&W! good thing is those S&W top breaks are very affordable!

 

[mcb]

IIRC on the Iver Johnson the position of the owl's head on the grips indicates if it is a BP or smokeless revolver. Chin points to the left, BP, to the right smokeless.

Yep, as you can see on @Speedo66, his points to the right and is a third model and was made for smokeless. Mine is a second model and the chin points left, rated for blackpowder though I have put a few boxes of smokeless through it but the commercial stuff I used is pretty mild.

Also a J-frame 38/357 speed-loader will work with the Iver Johnson 38 S&W pretty well. (similar a K-frame 38/357 speed-loader will work with a Webley Mk IV or Enfield No2)

 

[Mark_Mark]

what you guys think about refinishing one of those cheap S&W top breaks? practice blueing

 

[gobsauce]

Picked one up at a local gun show recently. Honestly, the show really wasn't worth it.

Dunno anything about it aside from the fact that it's mine now.

 

[doubleh]

I only have one with no picture and it is a true safe queen. It's in a safety deposit box at my bank. I have 3 other antiques along side it so it won't get lonesome. I always check them over to see if they are happy when I have some business in that box.

Truth be told I could sell them but I think they will hold their value much better than today's monopoly money will.

 

[Tallinar]

Webley Mark VI in .45 Autorim/ACP. Carried by my grandfather in Europe. Supposedly he acquired it from a Canadian mounty when stationed up north and had it rechambered prior to being shipped off to theatre.

Dad and I loaded some light rounds and shot it before. Cylinder could use some tightening up, but otherwise shot just fine. I inherited from Dad when he passed a few years ago.

 

[Speedo66]

Picked one up at a local gun show recently. Honestly, the show really wasn't worth it.

Dunno anything about it aside from the fact that it's mine now. View attachment 1166110

That’s a 3rd Model Iver Johnson, rated for smokeless powder.

The four pins above the trigger guard and the solid stops on the cylinder are the giveaways.

 

[Speedo66]

IIRC on the Iver Johnson the position of the owl's head on the grips indicates if it is a BP or smokeless revolver. Chin points to the left, BP, to the right smokeless.

Grips can be changed, same size for black powder and smokeless. Having 4 pins above the trigger guard is a sure method to ID for smokeless.

 

[Speedo66]

The finish and grips are pretty roached, but the mechanics and bore are mint. One of these days I'll find some .38S&W and shoot it.
View attachment 1166101

I think that was the last of S&W break tops, top latch and cylinder latch.

AIM Surplus has .38 S&W at a decent price. https://aimsurplus.com/products/prvi-partizan-ppu-38-s-w-145grn-lrn-50rd-box

 

[tightgroup tiger]

1925 H&R 22 Special. Nightlord gave me a new set of grips for it but this is an old picture still showing the originals. It shoots pretty good, sights are microscopic and it's hard to use because of the saw handle grips.

 

[alfsauve]

My grandfather's CCW. Other than the nickel wearing off, it's still in great shape. AND, when out for a run I've been carrying it also!



Back in his day there weren't CCWs. Typically only the big cities restricted carry. When so moved a mayor would issue a "courtesy card" to citizens or visitors which would allow one to CCW. My granddad went to a convention in Miami Beach and received the following:

 

[Dave Markowitz]

This is my S&W No.1-1/2 Single Action which shipped from the factory in April 1878. It's the early "cam screw" model which used a cam to tension the hammer spring. This model was the first gun chambered for .32 S&W. The tong tool to the left is an original Ideal with a built-in bullet mold. I loaded the black powder rounds using bullets cast in that mold.

.32 S&W balloon head cases will hold about 9 grains of BP but modern solid head brass only holds about 5 grains. Since the only things I'll ever shoot with it are paper or steel gongs, that doesn't matter to me.



For scale, here it is next to my J-Frame Model 632 Airweight in .32 H&R Magnum:

 

[Speedo66]

This is my S&W No.1-1/2 Single Action which shipped from the factory in April 1878. It's the early "cam screw" model which used a cam to tension the hammer spring. This model was the first gun chambered for .32 S&W. The tong tool to the left is an original Ideal with a built-in bullet mold. I loaded the black powder rounds using bullets cast in that mold.

.32 S&W balloon head cases will hold about 9 grains of BP but modern solid head brass only holds about 5 grains. Since the only things I'll ever shoot with it are paper or steel gongs, that doesn't matter to me.

View attachment 1166387

For scale, here it is next to my J-Frame Model 632 Airweight in .32 H&R Magnum:

View attachment 1166388

Nice combo!
I had a similar Ideal tool in .38-40 for an original ‘73 Winchester I had. Never cast with it, but it did a great job of sizing, decapping, recapping, seating, and crimping.

Be nice to find one in .38 S&W at a reasonable price for the Iver Johnson I just got.

 

[Speedo66]

My grandfather's CCW. Other than the nickel wearing off, it's still in great shape. AND, when out for a run I've been carrying it also!

View attachment 1166223

Back in his day there weren't CCWs. Typically only the big cities restricted carry. When so moved a mayor would issue a "courtesy card" to citizens or visitors which would allow one to CCW. My granddad went to a convention in Miami Beach and received the following:

View attachment 1166225



Her

S&W “lemon squeezer”, very nice.

 

[Johnm1]

The early S&W Double A tion Family



44 DA, 38 DA, 32 DA

 

[James K2020]

A Smith .32 Hammerless Safety Model 3 'New Departure'.

S&W 38 "Perfected"


H&R 999 Sportsman

 

[Johnm1]

As pointed out, they are affordable which means they tend to breed.

32 Single Action. Thought I paid too much for it. But it turns out those are real Mastodon grips and worth as much as I paid for the revolver.



S&W No. 1 tip up. Basket case when I bought it. Took some time and a few parts but I've shot it now and it works well. Aluminium foil works well to remove BP fouling and oxidation and it looks much better today.

Iver Johnson Supershot 8 shot 22 LR. I need to tweak its timing. Bottom is a Stevens Tip Up 22 LR that is quie accurate. I carry it when squirrel hunting.

L to R, Top to bottom
H&R Premier 32 1906-1913. H&A Forehand model 1901 38 DA 4" still needs arbor work. Group of suicide specials
IJ Safety hammerless 32. S&W 38 DA 4"
S&W Safety Hammerless 32
Edit to add; Bottom right is a Velodog in its native cartridge. Doesn't belong in this post.


Meriden 32 DAO

 

[Dave T]

At one time I had a early S&W DA in 44 Russian. It had a 4" barrel and was nickel plated. Nickel finish showed it's age and use but it functioned well shooting black powder hand loads. Sadly it is gone along with all the original 19th Century cartridge guns I used to have - a long, sad story not appropriate for this thread.

This is what I have now:



It is a 2000 S&W 1875 Schofield. Reported to be an accurate reproduction of the original. Turned out it is accurate in looks only: the hammer is not correct; the firing mechanism was redesigned by the safety Nazis so it has a floating frame mounted firing pin; and it will not shoot black powder. I tried several times but because of the missing gas ring at the front of the cylinder fouling binds it up after 4 rounds. Even trying to cock the hammer with one hand while turning the cylinder with the other hand will not advance it for the 5th shot. So it sets in the safe, a pretty - almost example of a famous top break 19th Century revolver.

Dave