Torque settings various rifle/scope parts

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30cal_Fun

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Hi,

I bought a torque wrench to be able to tighten the screws on my rifle properly.
I am sure this has been covered in various topics but couldn't find every single part and there seems to be a lot of disagreement on the exact settings for different rifle and scope parts. Also I don't know if there is a difference between the settings for a Remington 700 and a Mosin Nagant.
I have a mosin nagant with a reproduction PU scope and mount.
I also have a Remington 700 SPS varmint on which I intend to mount an old Redfield scope, 4-screw rings from the same period and a Jr base, I also have a walnut stock that will be pillar bedded.
So for both the Remington 700 and the Mosin Nagant: what torque settings do I need to tighten all the screws to? Action, base, rings, windage screws?

Here are some pictures of the the rifle and scope (no pictures of the Remington yet).
 

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Some more pictures.
 

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General rules of thumb.

Action screws 65 INCH/Pounds
Scope base screws 30 INCH/Pounds
Ring screws 15-20 INCH/Pounds

Notice these settings are INCH/Pounds
12 INCH/Pounds are equivilent to 1 FOOT/Pound of torque.
 
Is that tool a torque wrench or a torque screwdriver? Just wondering. I see the screwdriver types on shelves that run around 60 bucks. They look pretty handy.
 
Thanks for the settings Onmilo. I knew about the Inch pounds, but it is always good to mention. I should have put it in my post.

I have a wrench, I have been looking at the Wheeler FAT Wrench, but came across one that was prices well so I took it. It is actually intended for bicycles but can adjust from 17,6 to about 212 inch pounds of force (2-24Nm actually), so it should be more than suitable for the range I need for firearms.
 
just out of curiosity, how do yo0u get the screw heads on the screws? Extension from the wrench? Got a pic of of it?
 
Good tool for shooting. Consistency is your friend : )

One of the best things I ever did was get all those bits and pieces screwed together at the proper tension.
 
The wrench has a standard head on which you can click different kids of extensions.
Redbullitt, I agree, concistancy = accuracy.
I just tightened all the screws on my Mosin Nagant especially the scope mount screws. Man, what a difference with how I had tightened them by hand, some way to hard, some not enough.
Oh, and see my custom hand made rifle-maintenance-station :D $2,- worth of glue, the rest I had lying around, works better than a $100 Tipton.
 

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nice set up. Thanks for going thru the trouble to post those pics.
 
No problem Pacsd. If you want more pictures just ask.
I looked at the one from Harbor Freight, seems exactly the same one except the handle.
 
It's good that you are using some form of torque application. One thing to remember is; when tightening the action screws, ALWAYS torque the front screw first.
 
From Barsness, I believe:

Leupold, Talley & Echols recommend that 6-48 ring or base screws be tightened to 15-18 inch-pounds (thumb and two fingers on driver), and 8-40 screws to 28-35 inch-pounds. Most manufacturers recommend 20-something inch-pounds for ring screws. That is sufficient for a .458 Lott, and won’t mark a scope, unless the ring edges are sharp.
 
ONMILLO,
that is funny how you menchon the difference. When i worked on aircraft i saw the new guys once use ft lbs. Its hilarious when they would snap them and have to extract them out.
 
It was not until I bought my Wheeler fat wrench that I realized how overly tight I was tightening my scope screws.
 
Farmer tight

What omilo said is what I generally use. I use a driver from Brownells for bases and rings. I see over torqued mounts and rings all the time and I refer to it as "farmer tight", meaning they always give it a 1/4 turn after it stops. I've seen a lot of scopes damaged from the farmer syndrome, not to mention they always strip the heads on the screws. I also apply a light coat of release agent to the inside of the rings, let it dry then mount the scope.
 
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