Tough Pull Cylinder Pin on 1858 Rem

[Glen]

I have an 1858 Remington replica by Pietta. I use that GI grease that comes in the little round plastic containers with the yellow top. It works great for the cylinder rotation but when I go to clean my gun, I have to pound the cylinder pin out by using a wooden dowel and hammer and hitting a few taps on either side of the "T" on the cylinder pin to get it out. I would imagine this does not hurt anything as I am careful when I do this, but is this standard procedure?

Does anyone use something so that you can just pull it out with your fingers? If so, what is it?

I have sometimes wondered if the way I take the cylinder pin out hurts anything.

Any comments?

Glen

 

[Ginormous]

My Navy Arms Uberti 1858 Remmie was a bit tight in the area where the cylinder pin fits into the recoil shield and terminates under the hammer.

I removed it, went to work on the area that was binding with 220 grit emery cloth until it would slide in and out smoothly. I cleaned up the finish with progressively finer grits until it matched the untouched areas of the pin. Problem solved.

My Remington is the stainless steel version, so I did not have to cold blue the cylinder pin to cover the refinished area. Since this area of the pin is hidden, just about any cold bluing could be used to retouch the pin if your revolver happens to be of the blued variety.

Perhaps this is the same area your revolver's pin is binding?

 

[BHP FAN]

Try Bore Butter,or 30 wt. motor oil.That M-60 grease is just too gummy.

 

[Smokin_Gun]

Relube the Cyl. Pin when reloading or make some lube pills to load in the chambers...a lil trick a friend a mine told me is carry a Vizine, clear eyes, or pocket size squirt bottle of plain water squirt the font of the cylinder at the cylinder pin if it starts binding up. I'll free it.

 

[BCRider]

The pins on my Ubertis do not require any such forcing either when they are clean or at the end of my recent first day of CAS shooting with them following 30 shots each for the day.

If they slip in and out when freshly lubed and get this stiff after a session then I would suggest that this is not a good lube for use on BP guns.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Lubriplate is great for greasing M-1s and M-14s. BP guns, not so much.

I've found that Ballistol is the best lube I've tried for the base pins of cap and ball revolvers to keep them from binding. Put a few drops on the pin, then after 3 or 4 cylinders (18 to 24 shots), pull the pin, wipe off the fouling, then relube with Ballistol.

 

[BCRider]

Glen, you may want to follow the exchange in the "Break Free or not?" thread currently running. Also check the links in the first sticky thread at the top of the for the BP basics thread started by Gatofeo. It also goes on at some lengths about avoiding petroleum lubricants in BP guns. And as you know by now there's no such thing as confining the powder flash to the insides of the gun with these things. So it's quite possible that you're experiencing the BP/petroleum lube tarring up that Gatofeo and others suggest can happen. After all, there's that little gap in line with the barrel gap where the powder is being driven down during firing and it is seeing just as harsh a treatment as the inside of the barrel on this count.