Traditions Crockett kit rifle

[jdavis123]

Midway had a sale on the Crockett .32 cal. rifle so, I bought one. I have managed to get everything dry fitted but not without a few issues. One problem occurs when I tighten the lock screw opposite the hammer, the hammer will not function. When I loosen it to the point of no pressure the hammer functions normally. I have tried everything that I can to correct this to no avail. Do any of you have experience with this sort of thing? I would greatly appreciate any advice.

 

[Jimster]

I have assembled a Track of the Wolf kit. Sounds as if maybe some wood needs to be removed from the lock mortise. Use candle black on the lock innards and see where it’s hitting the wood.

 

[robhof]

Midway had a sale on the Crockett .32 cal. rifle so, I bought one. I have managed to get everything dry fitted but not without a few issues. One problem occurs when I tighten the lock screw opposite the hammer, the hammer will not function. When I loosen it to the point of no pressure the hammer functions normally. I have tried everything that I can to correct this to no avail. Do any of you have experience with this sort of thing? I would greatly appreciate any advice.

As Jimster said, I got an Investarms kit and had similar problem, when milled on the line to specs, then stored the wood shrinks/warps to some degree so minor adjustments are usually necessary. I put together a Hawkins style flinter from Ebay parts and also had some mating problems, actually had to add some bedding to get lock to be flush with the surface of the stock(cut too deep at factory).

 

[jdavis123]

Jimster, thanks for the suggestion. I have attempted to find areas of wood contact. I will try your candle suggestion and report back. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Panzerschwein]

VERY nice small caliber hawkins. Hope you get it figured out, great guns!!

 

[jdavis123]

Smoke test turned up no contact with wood. However, I stumbled on the answer. The screws that hold the lock in place are too long! I noticed the end of the screw was shiny which signaled me that it was bottoming out. If I backed it out, everything was fine. Out came the file and after a bit of judicious filing, I was able to tighten the screws and the lock works as it should. Who would have “thunk” that the screws were wrong? Regardless, I’m glad to have discovered this. Perhaps it will help someone else sometime.

 

[Jimster]

Hurray! Great job of troubleshooting.

 

[4v50 Gary]

1) screw can be too long. It's supposed to be cut to fit.

2) Tightening the lockscrew compresses the lock against the wood, causing the lockup. My brother's rifle has that problem. I'm either going to have to make a spacer block that fits inside the mortise (the maker took out too much wood) or fill the mortise with acraglass to provide more rigidity in the mortise.

 

[ThomasT]

Who would have “thunk” that the screws were wrong?

I would have. Someone on another forum wrote the same thing and I read it just a few days ago.

4v50Gary long ago I bought a CVA 45/32 from a pawnshop that someone started as a kit and the lock mortice was cut too deep. I used shims around the edges and glass bedded it just like you are talking about. My bud still has and shoots that gun. I have offered to buy it back but he ain't sellin'.

 

[jdavis123]

Wish that I had read about the screws on that other forum. Sure would have saved me a lot of anguish. Better yet, Traditions should mention this in their instructions. On the plus side, it feels good when you are able to work through the problems you encounter when building a kit gun. I have a theory that as the guns are being assembled in the factory, the parts that don’t quite fit are thrown in a bin to be later boxed up as the kit guns. I doubt that is the case but, it sometimes seems that way.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

I had 2 traditions rifles come through my shop about 10 years ago. I was not impressed. One had a lock with such poor geometry that it was not functional. The other was just flat poor quality. I hope they have improved.