Tried to play gunsmith with my Glock 21 now I think I am screwed.

[Udo]

Decided to install a Ghost Rocket 3.5 trigger in my Glock 21(non-ambi) today. Well to say the least it didn't go so well. The extended mag release and slide stop levers, as well as the aftermarket night sights were super easy to install so I figure I'd try my hand and putting in a new trigger connector. After grinding down the trigger control tab slightly I installed the connector and everything else back in. When I pulled the trigger to test things out the trigger "broke" like it should but felt real mushy. Second and subsequent trigger pulls failed to do anything, the trigger just pulls back with the resistance and springs back when released.

Here's where I am screwed. I can't get the slide off now. The trigger won't break, so I can't get the slide off when pulling down the slide lock levers. Is there another way to get the slide off the gun other than the obvious and normal procedure? Even if I have to break or damage something, Glock parts are pretty cheap and I will just chalk it up as a learning experience. Help a bonehead out please. :banghead:

 

[DBR]

IIRC (wear eye protection) lock the slide back and remove the rear slide cover. Remove the striker assembly. Ease the slide forward while holding the slide lock down. The slide should come off the frame.

Your problem is you limited the over travel too much. Personally, I have tried these connectors and the amount of over travel they could safely eliminate was not worth the effort.

The best trigger pulls I have been able to get with self defense Glocks is either with the standard trigger or the NY spring and the Glock 3.5 connector. What really affects the trigger is stoning the ramp on the trigger bar that elevates the striker block plunger so it is smooth and not "lumpy" it is a stamped part.

I also smooth the end of the trigger bar where it engages the connector but this area will wear in after about 500 firing cycles and if you don't know what you are doing you can make the gun double.

 

[Udo]

I'll try it right now thanks

 

[DBR]

Added: Most think that trigger parts on Glocks are drop ins. I can say from personal experience that is not always the case.

At the very least you need the half height rear slide cover so you can see the amount of engagement of the "sear" (rear end of the cruciform) with the striker. It should be engaged at lest 2/3 of its thickness. Because of slide frame fit tolerances this can vary quite a bit.

Stock Glocks have this adjusted at the factory if required. The combination of the connector and a particular trigger bar can vary this engagement from safe to very dangerous.

The reason most responsible after market parts makers suggest having their parts fitted by a qualified Glock gunsmith is because of this fitting issue even though they don't explicitly state the reason.

 

[Udo]

That did the trick but I think I may have bent the extractor. It doesn't look like my Glock 19 or 17 so I can't tell for sure. Is that the way the extractor is supposed to look?

 

[DBR]

That part is the "ejector". I think you are OK. It's been a while since I owned that particular model but again IIRC that is how the ejector looked. Glock metal parts are very hard. I think you would be more likely to break a part before you would bend it.

 

[Udo]

Yeah sorry I meant ejector. I have the "extractor" sitting in a cup by my laptop. Now I'll try once more to put this thing together. Thanks DBR.

 

[DBR]

If you get stuck or have doubts just post and I will try to help you.

 

[Udo]

Thanks DBR for your help. Went outside and smoked a cigarette with my gf then came inside and put everything together. To my relief everything works perfect again!

I put back the regular connector, I'll wait til I am with someone more experienced before I try and install the ghost rocket again.

 

[REAPER4206969]

As to the ejector,

The .380/9x19 models have a bent ejector.

The .357/.40 models have a straight ejector.

The .45 models have a curved ejector.