Trigger/Hammer Tension Question

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Nutgun

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I have 2 Judge Public Denfenders one is new and one is used. My first revolvers.

While using dummy rounds I am trying to get familiar with aiming and the amount of trigger pull. I noticed that while pulling back the trigger and trying to keep on target, the amount of pull needed to get the gun to fire causes the gun to move off target slightly to the left.

Is this a normal amount of pull required to fire. There is a Hammer tension adjustment. I don't know if the used gun has had the adjustment moved. Also I don't know if there is a (noticeable) difference between the new gun and the old one.

Should the trigger pull be adjusted down some so the gun stays where you point it during the trigger pull? Or do you just compensate and aim a little right? How much tension is too much. I know too little might not set off the round.

Also with the bobbed hammer you practically need two hands to pull it back. Or is it all just a matter of strengthening my fingers and grip. My automatics aren't this hard to pull.
 
The problem is very likely due to the fact that the Judge is also chambered for a shotshell. Being intended for use in a longarm with a heavier striker or hammer spring than is generally used in handguns...Taurus had to use a heavy spring in order to provide reliable ignition for the harder, tougher primers found in .410 shotshells. In short...A compromise between user-friendliness and functional reliability.
 
The trigger pull on double action revolvers is usually high (12 pounds or more). This is normal and it will take some practice to learn to shoot well. With practice, you will get better.
 
Where do you find a mainspring tension adjustment? :confused: If this is like - or similar to - the mainspring strain screw on S&W revolvers, this is not meant to be an adjustment or to be moved.
 
It's under the rubber grip. The instruction book tells you and shows you pictures on how to do it.
 
Go ahead and measure it!

I finally broke down and bought a good trigger pull-weight gauge, the Lyman Electronic Digital Trigger Pull Gauge, Part # 7832248. My old Dad always said, "Buy the best tool you can afford - you'll never be sorry you did and you'll probably only have to buy it once". This is the one I am talking about http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/tools/trigger-pull-gauge.php and here's what it looks like: ($70 from Lyman or $55 from MidwayUSA)
Electronic_Trigger_Gauge_Lyman_webs.jpg
You can read all about the features elsewhere, and a good one is the "averaging" function, where the gauge will give you the average of up to 10 or so separate, repeated pulls.

But an experience I had with a gun makes me want to write down each individual pull-weight on the way to getting an average. The gun, relatively new and not fully broken in yet, gave trigger pulls where a string of three or four were a few ounces higher than average and a whole 'nother string were a few ounces lighter than average. The trigger gets into different "modes", I guess because of the way the trigger-group components variably slide and rub on each other when everyrhing is still wearing in.

By the way, with this Lyman gauge, variations of an ounce are real true measurements. It reads to 0.1 ounce but is supposed to only be good to 0.2 ounce.

Also note that its upper limit is 12 pounds of pull (which is higher than most other gauges) but NOT high enough for some assault rifles that may have twice that pull-weight.
 
It's common for a gun to move under the act of squeezing the trigger. Short of absurd trigger pulls (unworn Nagant revolvers, anyone?) the fix is lots of practice.

If it's a range gun, throw in a lighter trigger spring and adjust the hammer spring to the lightest it will reliably fire.

If it's a defense gun, either leave it alone, or adjust the hammer spring out, then crank the adjustment in a few times. Trigger spring may or may not warrant replacement.
 
But an experience I had with a gun makes me want to write down each individual pull-weight on the way to getting an average. The gun, relatively new and not fully broken in yet, gave trigger pulls where a string of three or four were a few ounces higher than average and a whole 'nother string were a few ounces lighter than average. The trigger gets into different "modes", I guess because of the way the trigger-group components variably slide and rub on each other when everyrhing is still wearing in.

Will the revolver trigger pull get easier after it's broken in? How many trigger pulls would that take? 50-100-500? Should one breakin the trigger by pulling it repeatedly?

Can you pull your trigger too much?
 
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