Trigger reset

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Red Cent

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Rather post the question here than the handgun threads.

I would like to hear from those who have actual hands on experience with semi-auto pistols that are compatible with IDPA or IPSC (old guy). I would also like to hear from those that believe their pistol works the best.
I competed in IPSC a number of years ago and used a 1911. We all know the reset and travel on the 1911 SA is minuscule compared to some double action semis.

While I realize I can shoot CDP (and I will), I also want something for SSP.

What 10 round 9mm semi-auto has the shortest trigger reset? Does your pick have a 4# or less trigger with little or any creep? Does your pick contain the ergonomics that mitigates recoil? And I guess it fits the box.

Guess I could use the old M59.
 
I did a little trigger work on a GLOCK for USPSA and it runs 2# or so with a similar reset to a 1911. It still ahs the long, creepy pre-travel (necessary for safety). That's since come out and I run stock with a Ghost Rocket connector, roughly 3.5 pounds and a short lil reset (same).

In IDPA, I shoot a stock G17 with a 3.5# connector.
 
why not use a 1911 in 9mm. 10 round mags, single action trigger. you can shoot it in uspsa single stack, and idpa cdp. also the gear (holster, mag pouches) will all be compatible..
 
Well, no,he can't do CDP, but he could do ESP (CDP requires .45 ACP).

Hey--Glock rules ESP and SSP. If 20,000 other shooters are soooo wrong, can ya really be right? (kidding here)

Dan
 
"If you have aspirations of shooting competitively in stock class (IDPA) competitions, it will make it as far as size, but you'll have to leave it alone except for the sights. This one would have to have factory parts put back in to meet IDPA requirements for stock class competition."

Guy purchased a G34 set up for competition. Dawson fibers and, I guess, springs and connector. What does he mean "parts put back"?
 
I don't know what he is talking about. An IDPA "Stock Service Pistol" does not necessarily have to be factory box stock. Trigger work is specifically allowed and there are a number of aftermarket parts that can be used without showing, see#4 below. Here are the pertinent rules:

PERMITTED Modifications (Inclusive list):
1. Sights may be changed to another conventional notch and
post type (see “sights” in glossary for further information).
2. Grips may be changed to another style or material that is
similar to factory configuration (no weighted grips; see
“weighted grips” in glossary for further details).
3. A slip-on grip sock and/or skateboard tape may be used.
4. Internal action work may be used to enhance trigger pull as
long as safety is maintained (no visible external modifications
allowed).
5. Reliability work may be done to enhance feeding and
ejection.
6. Internal accuracy may be worked to include replacement of
barrel with one of factory configuration and original caliber.
7. Plastic plugs may be used to fill the opening behind the
magazine well.
8. Custom finishes may be applied.
NOTE: The slide releases and magazine releases that are standard
on the Glock 34 and 35 models are available as a factory option on
all Glocks available in the USA. Because of this, that type of slide
release and magazine release are legal on all Glocks for SSP.

EXCLUDED Modifications (NON-Inclusive list):
1. Externally visible modifications other than grips or sights.
2. Robar style grip reduction.
3. Add-on magazine well opening.
4. Guide rods made of a material different from the factory part
it replaces.
5. Seattle Slug Grip Plug and similar weighted products.
6. A barrel of another caliber that is not offered in the original
factory model.
7. Slide lightening (see “slide, lightening” in glossary for
further information).
8. Checkering and stippling.

The following modifications are NOT ALLOWED IN ANY
DIVISION unless otherwise specifically mentioned.
A. Compensators of any type including hybrid or ported
barrels.
B. Add-on weights for a competitive advantage (this includes,
but is not limited to, weighted magazines, tungsten guide rods,
brass magazine wells, weighted grips).
C. Heavy and/or cone style barrels without a barrel bushing.
D. Sights of non-standard configuration (i.e. Ghost rings, Bo-
Mar rib, etc.).
E. Disconnection or disabling of any safety device on any gun.
F. Lights mounted on guns.


Note: The "window" in the top of a Glock 34 does not count as slide lightening, it is the original factory construction.
 
What 10 round 9mm semi-auto has the shortest trigger reset? Does your pick have a 4# or less trigger with little or any creep? Does your pick contain the ergonomics that mitigates recoil? And I guess it fits the box.
Click to expand...

The S&W M&P 4" or 5" Pro with a trigger job is phenomonal. Properly done, it rivals the 1911 trigger on reset. (it may even surpass it!)

But it needs a trigger job to get there. It also points like a 1911, something you can't say about Glox.

The box. Can't fit those darn 10 rounders in the box.
Click to expand...

Don't know what you're talking about here. A factory Glock or M&P mag WILL fit the box easily.
 
The Witness Elite Match is what you are looking for. SA trigger, about 4 pounds out of the box, and fully adjustable. And it's scary accurate. The slide rides inside the frame like a CZ along with great ergonomics makes for very manageable recoil.
 
Bought a LNIB G34,4 17rd mags and double mag holder. Going through the holster sites.
The immediate need is to reduce the trigger pull weight from 4.7#s to no less than 3#s nor more than 4#s. Bunch of connectors out there. The Ghost Rocket with a connecter provided over travel stop looks good.
Anybody use the GR with OTS?
How do you remove a signficant amout of slop/pretravel?
Has anyone tried this?
http://www.m4040.com/ShootingSports/GlockPages/GlockMods-Triggerjob3.htm
Look at his holster. Must be an improvisation.
 
i shoot an xd service model in IDPA as that is what i carry, train with and shoot. i think the best overall polymer gun trigger is the xd, but the best reset of a polymer gun is the glocks, seems to be very short, compared to the xd's and others, but the initial take up is not as smooth as the xd.
 
The STI-GP6 has a very short trigger reset and a pretty nice trigger to boot. Accuracy tests seem to be encouraging and the gun has a good reputation in Europe as the Grand Power K100.

I've not gotten to shoot one but I've handled one and was favorably impressed.
Stops trigger bar from returning to full forward position VIOLA! No pretravel!
Anybody tried this?
Click to expand...
Be careful about limiting forward travel on the Glock trigger. You can easily render all the passive safeties in the gun inoperative that way.
 
I've tried a CZ SP01 from Angus' custom shop had about 1/8 reset in SA and the sweetest DA trigger. Really great trigger unlike most CZs, wonder if they could work on my PCR?
 
David E, what comprises a "trigger job" on a S&W M&P Pro? The Glock, apparently, is a drop in.
Click to expand...

The Glock isn't a drop-in, it needs adjustment. This isn't difficult, but it is something that needs to be done.

I've heard good things about the Apex drop-in sear for the M&P, including from my gunsmith that did a super trigger job on my first M&P, but I've not personally tried one yet.
 
Well, I should have a Ghost Rocket kit in sometime next week. 3.5 Connector with OT tab, trigger spring, firing pin spring, and firing pin safety spring. I believe I am going to order the Sting Ray belt holster from BladeTech or should I say "Unholstered". Anybody heard of them?
 
I installed a Ghost Rocket kit and I am impressed. The factory pull was 4.7#s and now it is 2.8#s (average 10 pulls on a Lyman digital). Travel was noticeably reduced and I see what most describe as a mushy break. The Rocket has an OT stop and it worked out well.
Figured out a couple of steps. They warn about putting the pistol together without the armorer's plate. They warn you about taking enough off to allow the pistol to fire. Locks the gun up and unless you take the firing pin plate off and depressing the trigger bar, firing the pistol to remove slide. Well, apply Dremel, put pins, block, and trigger assembly in, remove firing pin plate from slide leaving firing pin in place. Make witness marks on slide and frame. Mount frame to marks, grasp slide with weak hand and depress firing pin with weak thumb and pull trigger with strong hand. Trial and error. Works great. After complete re-assembly, no OT.
Another thing. They tell you to "jiggle" the slide lock to remove pin. I discovered that you can simply rotate lock arm up and forward. About the time it hits a wall start pushing on pin, it comes out for me. I installed it the same way.

I would love to take out a bunch of travel but you would have to move the firing pin safety tab. Might try it some time.

Thanks to you guys. I had to see for myself.
 
I would like to hear from those who have actual hands on experience with semi-auto pistols that are compatible with IDPA or IPSC (old guy). I would also like to hear from those that believe their pistol works the best.
I competed in IPSC a number of years ago and used a 1911. We all know the reset and travel on the 1911 SA is minuscule compared to some double action semis.

While I realize I can shoot CDP (and I will), I also want something for SSP.

What 10 round 9mm semi-auto has the shortest trigger reset? Does your pick have a 4# or less trigger with little or any creep? Does your pick contain the ergonomics that mitigates recoil? And I guess it fits the box.
Click to expand...

I prefer a little pretravel on my competition pistols but with the right trigger you can make any 1911 style pistol have almost zero. As noted above, one can make a Glock have very little pre, as well as post travel, with two set screws.

My 9mm/45 SVI has .020" pre and .005" reset with a 1.25# pull.
 
As noted above, one can make a Glock have very little pre, as well as post travel, with two set screws.
Click to expand...
Just be aware that a Glock without trigger pre-travel is no longer drop safe. Also, unlike a stock Glock pistol, the striker is essentially fully cocked if a round is chambered.

Removing all the pre-travel in a Glock trigger basically converts the pistol to a Single Action striker fired pistol that has NO safeties (manual/passive/internal/external) at all.
 
If it fits the requirements, the 9mm CZ 75SA can easily be worked into having fine trigger with a short reset. It DOES have the firing pin interrupt that adds a skosh of pretravel, but not much. Feels and operates much like a 1911.
 
1SOW, is skosh a technical term similar to smidgeom, tab, mite, or a whit?:)

With the simple thought of producing a Glock trigger for competition only, do you think one could move the firing pin safety tab a skosh, minimize the tab surface contact with the safety plunger, and lengthen the rear of the trigger bar to rest just a tad short of contact? The trigger safety may need to be filed a mite but you could get it to work. (Used to use those words quite often sixty years ago down in the holler (its spelled correctly) in WV.)

Sorry, the mind does not rest. Wish I was a machinist with tools. On second thought.........................
 
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