Trim .38 Special Cases to .38 S&W?

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38 S & Ws are larger in diameter and will split if made from 38 Special brass."Additional Comments".That is the standard answer. People will always have a different idea. Whatever you think will work for you is fine. I would get the correct brass,but that is just me! ;)
 
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Yeah, I kinda thought that. Just wasn't sure if the difference was large enough. The heck with it - going to pick up 250 rounds of 38 S&W and have a supply pretty much forever.
 
Some people do it and report few if any split cases. Seems like a lot of trouble though. I guess you do what you have to do if you can't find cases.

Lead bullets of the proper diameter will probably need a larger expander than the .38 Spl one.

going to pick up 250 rounds of 38 S&W and have a supply pretty much forever.
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If you can find them, that is the best route, and your right, at those low pressures, brass lasts a long, long, time.
 
I did 100 rds and kept reloading them over and over. Never saw an issue with splits. The trick is to not full length size them each time so that fire formed brass fits the chamber kinda like in a bolt rifle. I neck sized 3 times before full length sizing. The 357 brass works as well but it is thicker walled and makes it hard to get a bullet started. Use the 38spl brass and don't worry too much about it. If you use lead bullets rather than jacketed you will see moderate leading if you use .358 or .359 bullets, but they do work and are a lot easier to get than the correct, slightly larger 38cal bullets.
 
I sold some 38 S&W cases to fellow about a year ago. I think he was in Texas. I look back and see if I have any info. He might trade you out 38Spc for 38S&W. Good Luck Catpop
 
I just flipped through my notes. Only thing I have left from my work up was a note that said 3gr felt like a 22 and accuracy was decent at 10ft. It had to be w231 based on the timeframe. From memory, I found load data online and started WAY low due to an old clunky gun, worked up in .2 gr increments and tore down some of my hotter loads. If I find anything else I will post it for you.
 
Ammunitiontogo.com has a new shipment of Prvi Partizan .38 S&W. Pretty reasonable price, too. $20.95/50. Shipping & insurance will be another $15 to $20 for 5 boxes, depending on where you are in the States.
 
Another question concerning 38 S&W. Can I use 38 Spl /357 Mag bullets? I can get .359 bullets. The .001 difference shouldn't matter, eh?
 
Question: What revolver are you going to be shooting this ammunition in?

It could matter. Colt for example made cylinders for their Police Positive model with .358 chamber throats, and barrels with .354" - .356" groove diameters.
 
I promised myself that I would never buy anything in .38 S&W. Well I picked up a H&R Top Break in excellent condition. It was at a fire sale price because the owner gave up trying to find ammo for it.

Is there a better way to measure the internal bore dimensions aside from using a digital caliper? Bore Gauge?
 
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When I first got my Enfield No.2 in 38 S&W I had no brass or dies so I cut down .38 Special brass, loaded up a 158gr LSWC bullet (.358") and fired all 12 in the Enfield. Of course there was no Bullseye accuracy but I did shoot the gun and I had 12 pieces of fire formed brass. I was able to get dies locally the next day but couldn't find brass for about a month. I resized those same 12 pieces plus 18 more about 5/6 times and none split. Once the Starline order came in I tossed those cases in the scrap bucket but they did work and work well.

BTW, Missouri Bullets has 145gr .361" bullets for the 38 S&W and at a fair price too.
http://www.missouribullet.com/results.php?category=5&secondary=29
 
Onward Allusion said:
I promised myself that I would never buy anything in .38 S&W. Well I picked up a H&R Top Break in excellent condition. It was at a fire sale price because the owner gave up trying to find ammo for it.

Is there a better way to measure the internal bore dimensions aside from using a digital caliper? Bore Gauge?
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Can you slug the bore in a top break revolver? That would be the best bet I think.
 
Before getting worried about the bore I'd check the chamber throats. Doing it with calipers is easy, or you might try to see what drill size bit shank comes close.

Using bullets sized to .361 won't do you a bit of good after it goes through a .358" throat.

By the way, what model H&R top-break is this, and when was it made? It's quite possible you shouldn't be shooting it at all, at least with smokeless powder.

Last but least, if you load the cartridge with soft, .358 hollow base wadcutters - seated out and taper crimped - the hollow base will expand and fill the grooves if that's necessary.
 
Natchez has Starline .38 S&W brass in stock, and Lee carbide dies. They're no more expensive than anything else. The Missouri Bullet Company is the only manufacturer that I know of that makes a true 0.361" .38 S&W bullet. The good news is the MBC bullet is a quality product, the bullet is not very expensive, and THR members get a 5% discount.
 
As for bullets designed for the .357/38spl yes it can be done but it gets you a lower velocity, worse accuracy, and bad leading in the barrel. It's no secret why I sold my 38sw... Using the proper bullets does wonders, but good luck finding them reasonably priced. You could take a swing at paper-patching but it's not really worth the trouble.
 
I own and shoot three .38 S&Ws. I use a Lee 105 grain SWC for practice and 115 or 125 grain Hornady XTP for EDC. I have mixed brass headstamps .38 S&W, .38 Special and .357 Magnum all cut to the .38 S&W length. Despite the article experts I have NEVER split a case. I have used 231, Red Dot, Green Dot and Unique. Despite using undersize bullets I have good accuracy on paper plate sized targets out past 50 feet.

For H&R revolvers read the patent dates stamped on the barrel rib. If the last date is not 1904 or later you have a blackpowder revolver.
 
The .38 S&W is a lot of fun. My favorite is my Victory Model.

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It's a Berrys 148 Gr DEWC. Had some left over. They shot well. The other is an X-Treme 158 Gr SWC. It shoots great in everything. Work up carefully in .1 Gr increments.
 
As for bullets designed for the .357/38spl yes it can be done but it gets you a lower velocity, worse accuracy, and bad leading in the barrel. It's no secret why I sold my 38sw
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Listen to Old Fuff:

Before getting worried about the bore I'd check the chamber throats. Doing it with calipers is easy, or you might try to see what drill size bit shank comes close.

Using bullets sized to .361 won't do you a bit of good after it goes through a .358" throat.
Click to expand...

I have an Albion Motors Enfield No2Mk1**...I load and shoot 158gr truncated cone @ .358" over 2gr of Red Dot...I get no leading and better accuracy than Win or Rem factory ammo...

My throats will not pass a .357" bullet without force, so the .358" I use for all of my .38spcl/.357 work fine in my .38 S&W application...
 
This does not come as a surprise. However if you are hand loading remember to exchange the .361 inside sizing plug that likely came with the die set to a .358" one.
 
It can be done, it's a PIA to cut and trim down the brass. Back in the late 80's I picked up a War Finish Webley .38 S&W along with a Lee Whack-A-Mole reloading kit but no brass.

My grandfather did have plenty of nickel plated .38+P, so trimming free brass was a good idea at the time. Bullseye and Hornady 148 HBWC were the load of choice! They do bulge above the rim, but I never had one split or fail. I still have a tray of 50 left! These have been reloaded at least 15+ times.

Truly, the best solution is using the correct brass. In a pinch the cut down .38's will work.
 

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