Background/Experience
I have been reloading for close to a year now via a single stage press for my 1911 for plinking purposes only. Have not reloaded any other caliber.
Situation
I know wish to start reloading for my Auto Ordinance M1 .30 Carbine (Paratrooper version) so that I can begin to shoot the Appleseed AQT targets using the .30 carbine round instead of using my 10/22.
This weekend I used some aguila .30 carbine in my rifle and now have around 200 brass casings ready to reload. The aguila was OK but a bit smoky.
In any case these are the steps I have taken before I stopped with my question for this post.
1) Tumbled the brass to clean it. It was not that dirty (dirt) since my brass catcher got it all but did have power marks, etc. (Not shinny brass anymore).
2) Using imperial dry neck lube and imperial die wax I de-primed and resized the cases like this guy does.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8p_99I0f4s
Not sure the dry neck lube is really needed but I figured I try it out. The die wax does help to make the resizing go a bit smoother. You can feel the pressure on the press when you don't use the lube.
3) Re-tumbled the brass to remove the lubes
4) Checking the case length with this tool.
The first 6 cases I checked 3 were over the max of 1.290 (what the tool checks). So I measured via my capliers and found this:
1) 1.292
2) 1.295
3) 1.290
4) 1.288
5) 1.289
6) 1.292
5) Case Trimming
So using the LEE hand trimmer tool I trimmed the ones that were too long as well as the 1.290 (max border line one). So I trimmed #1, #2, #3 and #6
I deburred the inside and outside and then using a green pan sponge did one final cleaning of the case. Took the capliers again all this brass came out to be 1.285.
So this is my question.
Is it safe to use the 1.288 and 1.289 along with these 1.285 since they are all below the 1.290 that the book says is OK provided I use the right bullet/powder setup.
My lyman reloading book says the case lenght should be 1.286 but I have no way of controlling what the lee trimmer does since it's at a set lenght.
So should I go ahead an just trim all of the brass so that it is at 1.285 and make it uniform. I am assuming the other 194 will be 1.285 or higher. Not sure if there will be any less than 1.285.
The way I figure if it's all 1.285 and with the same powder drop and bullet then it's like shooting the same ammo (data wise) over and over so the results should be similar provided there is no user error (me shooting wrong).
Does shooting 1.285 vs 1.288 really make a difference for what I am doing?
I don't need super precision from this ammo since this is just a stepping stone for when I reload/use a .308 rifle in 2 years from now. Will I really notice the difference? For appleseed targets you do not use a bench or rest. It's all you, the rifle and a sling when standing/sitting.
So am I doing everything right so far?
The expanding the cases, dropping powder, seating the bullet all looks the same as when I do .45 ACP so that should be easy and similar. All this prep work is what's new for me.
I do not plan on doing HOT loads with this ammo.
Will reload it per what the lyman books says with the following:
WIN 296 with Berry's plated bullets 110gr.
Per the winchester website starting load is 14 grains of WIN 296 with MAX of 15 gr. My idea was to do 10 rds at 14g thru 14.5 (50 rds) and see what works best. Hopefully the 14 is best (cycles the bolt) and leave it at that.
Thanks
I have been reloading for close to a year now via a single stage press for my 1911 for plinking purposes only. Have not reloaded any other caliber.
Situation
I know wish to start reloading for my Auto Ordinance M1 .30 Carbine (Paratrooper version) so that I can begin to shoot the Appleseed AQT targets using the .30 carbine round instead of using my 10/22.
This weekend I used some aguila .30 carbine in my rifle and now have around 200 brass casings ready to reload. The aguila was OK but a bit smoky.
In any case these are the steps I have taken before I stopped with my question for this post.
1) Tumbled the brass to clean it. It was not that dirty (dirt) since my brass catcher got it all but did have power marks, etc. (Not shinny brass anymore).
2) Using imperial dry neck lube and imperial die wax I de-primed and resized the cases like this guy does.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8p_99I0f4s
Not sure the dry neck lube is really needed but I figured I try it out. The die wax does help to make the resizing go a bit smoother. You can feel the pressure on the press when you don't use the lube.
3) Re-tumbled the brass to remove the lubes
4) Checking the case length with this tool.
The first 6 cases I checked 3 were over the max of 1.290 (what the tool checks). So I measured via my capliers and found this:
1) 1.292
2) 1.295
3) 1.290
4) 1.288
5) 1.289
6) 1.292
5) Case Trimming
So using the LEE hand trimmer tool I trimmed the ones that were too long as well as the 1.290 (max border line one). So I trimmed #1, #2, #3 and #6
I deburred the inside and outside and then using a green pan sponge did one final cleaning of the case. Took the capliers again all this brass came out to be 1.285.
So this is my question.
Is it safe to use the 1.288 and 1.289 along with these 1.285 since they are all below the 1.290 that the book says is OK provided I use the right bullet/powder setup.
My lyman reloading book says the case lenght should be 1.286 but I have no way of controlling what the lee trimmer does since it's at a set lenght.
So should I go ahead an just trim all of the brass so that it is at 1.285 and make it uniform. I am assuming the other 194 will be 1.285 or higher. Not sure if there will be any less than 1.285.
The way I figure if it's all 1.285 and with the same powder drop and bullet then it's like shooting the same ammo (data wise) over and over so the results should be similar provided there is no user error (me shooting wrong).
Does shooting 1.285 vs 1.288 really make a difference for what I am doing?
I don't need super precision from this ammo since this is just a stepping stone for when I reload/use a .308 rifle in 2 years from now. Will I really notice the difference? For appleseed targets you do not use a bench or rest. It's all you, the rifle and a sling when standing/sitting.
So am I doing everything right so far?
The expanding the cases, dropping powder, seating the bullet all looks the same as when I do .45 ACP so that should be easy and similar. All this prep work is what's new for me.
I do not plan on doing HOT loads with this ammo.
Will reload it per what the lyman books says with the following:
WIN 296 with Berry's plated bullets 110gr.
Per the winchester website starting load is 14 grains of WIN 296 with MAX of 15 gr. My idea was to do 10 rds at 14g thru 14.5 (50 rds) and see what works best. Hopefully the 14 is best (cycles the bolt) and leave it at that.
Thanks