Crimping without cannelure

[10xforever]

Just now starting to reload and purchased the Hornady LHBWC in 148 grain with 3.0 grains of WW231 as a starting charge weight and WW small pistol magnum primers with Starline 357 brass. The Winchester loading data advises a trim case length of 1.285" and a COL of 1.290". It appears that the bullet is to be seated flush with the case mouth. I was reading in my Lyman reloading manual that you should never crimp without crimping into a cannelure. Should the roll crimp be a slight crimp just over the flush seated bullet?
My revolver is a Smith &Wesson model 686 Powerport 357 L frame with a 6" barrel.
Any advise woulf be appreciated.

 

[treebeard]

I used to load the same bullet, but in my .38Spl for target. Those wadcutters put some seriously nice neat holes in paper and they are accurate as heck. As far as the crimp, I used to seat the bullet flush with the top of the case and when I seated the bullet I would use a very light roll crimp. You should be able to see just a slight roll crimp upon examining the round. Once you get the roll crimp adjusted you should be good to go.

 

[10xforever]

Thanks for the advice i will be using the Lee 4 die set and will set my final crimp die for the slight roll needed.
Thanks again for the info and help.

 

[ReloaderFred]

With that load, you don't need the magnum primer. Target loads usually work best with standard primers, though there isn't any danger in using the magnum primers. It's been my experience that you'll get better accuracy with the standard primers.

Hope this helps.

Fred

 

[Walkalong]

Get a taper crimp die for .38 Spl. My Redding taper crimp die does a great job. You do not need much crimp and a taper crimp will be less likely to damage the bullet.

 

[treebeard]

I agree, you don't need magnum primers. Just get some regular large pistol primers. I have used Winchester small and large primers and I have yet to have any problems with them.

 

[tgs]

Ref no cannelure

Its talking about not crimping on a jacketed bullet that doesnt have a crimping groove. You stand a strong chance of damaging your die and will dent the bullet jacket.
I really dont crimp a lot unless its to prevent bullet set back with heavy loads like my .454 Casull
The crimp at the end of the wad cutter should be minimal.

 

[Encoreman]

Hey Treebeard, He's gonna have a hard time seating them large pistol primers in those .357 cases. I knew what you meant, but whenever I "talk" reloading I try to be specific, you never know if a newbie might try it. Not getting on your case. Hey ya'll Have a Happy and Safe New Year. Mac

 

[Sunray]

I've loaded .357 brass with 2.5 grains of Bullseye with 148 grain WC's for eons. Wadcutters don't need neither magnum primers or a crimp. Crimping is detrimental to accuracy as well. You only need a crimp on heavy recoiling cartridges and a taper crimp ONLY for .45 ACP.
Load your WC's flush with no crimp and don't worry about it.

 

[Steve C]

Most wad cutters come with a slight bevel at the nose and a slight crimp to match this modest bevel is probably the best choice. You need to remove any belling of the case mouth from the expanding stage just to get the round to chamber and a slight roll or chamfering of the case mouth aids in inserting the round into the chamber. Adjust your crimp die to do the above. Try chambering your rounds as you adjust your crimp die to achive this. Go slow in your crimp adjustments as with HBWC's more crimp is not better.

 

[lenny Cianciotto]

Slight crimp is OK, but if you don't trim your cases uniformly, accuracy will suffer slightly due to inconsistent crimp tension/pressure. It'd minimal, but worth mentioning if accuracy is your number one concern.
Lenny