Trouble loading 7mm mauser

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Commercial ppu and Remington were nothing to right home about. 748 was about the same as commercial. Rl15 and imr4895 were starting to tighten up but were not where I wanted them when the pressure sign showed up. Most all of my shooting is from 50yds off a bench. I'm looking for the most accurate load I can get. Preferably sub moa. I start at 50yds and move out once I get a load the rifle appears to like. The range I use i can go out to 500yds. I'm looking for accuracy 1st. The only round I load above saami specs is 35 rem. Its a custom mauser as well but I had it built.
 
There is no need to pay to have it checked. You can measure your brass or buy a go guage and add tape to the back. Either way you end up with a tool and a measurement vis just money spent.
Thanks for the tip. I'll be ordering a go guage.
 
Of the powders you have tested varget seems to be missing. It's hard to get but may be the one. If you cant get it ar comp is also a favorite. A lot of people have changed over for avability reasons. Tac is always something I try because my dad loved it and I have an 8lb jug. It's around so I use it for testing.
 
If your hitting pressure signs mid data I’d check headspace and slug the bore. Also could be a throat issue? Throat might be short and bullets aren’t getting a proper jump to the lands. Could raise pressures prematurely.
 
How did you set your resize die?
Use a sharpie to mark the bullet in a reload. Run the bolt and see if you get rifling marks.
 
I usually set my resizing die so it just touches the shell holder. Resize 1 piece and then test it it the rifle to make sure it'll chamber. If it doesn't go down an 1/8 of a turn at a time till it does. Then set the locking nut. Don't want to push the shoulder back. Learned the hard way on my 9.3x57 the problems that can cause. Had cas head separation
 
I've not noticed any bolt imprint on the brass. The bolt is not sticky at all. It moves freely.

I did order a foster go gauge today. I'm going to hold off on loading anymore for this rifle till it gets here and going to try new brass as well.
 
Primers can be a poor indicator of pressure. What brand primers are you using? Some are know to be softer than others.
Bingo! With no other pressure signs - are the velocities in the range you expected? - I suspect the primers being a bit softer than others. CCI and Winchester seem (by public comment) to be the hardest.

One other question: When decapping, are the primers coming out easier than you expected? If so, the primer pockets are expanding, a bad pressure indicator.

Gettin new brass after several - depends - shots is not a bad idea, either. (I see you've doing that).
 
Primers can be a poor indicator of pressure

I think that this is solid advice. If that's the only evidence and you are within book loads I wouldn't be overly concerned. Try another primer. If it still bothers you, chronograph the load to be sure you are in the ball park. In my opinion, 95 % of factory loads flatten primers. And nobody cares.
 
I think that this is solid advice. If that's the only evidence and you are within book loads I wouldn't be overly concerned. Try another primer. If it still bothers you, chronograph the load to be sure you are in the ball park. In my opinion, 95 % of factory loads flatten primers. And nobody cares.
Well I will not agree. He is using cci primers with arguably the hardest cups, indicates he may be seeing loosening primer pockets. These are signs if you choose to accept them or not. Flat primers on a factory load is also a sign of a max load. If people choose to ignore signs that's up to them but I will never encourage it.
 
I'd like to see some pictures if possible.
If you start over you maybe better of measuring the case head for pressure, about .001 and that's were you stop.
The ppu brass has about 2 grains more volume then my Remington brass.
 
Sorry I didn't take pics of the brass before I deprimed and resized it. It's now all in the recycle bucket. I ordered 50 new pieces of Remington brass today and a foster go guage. Figured I'd start over. Until both of these come in I'm not going touch the rifle. Other than to thoroughly clean the bore and chamber.
Thanks again
 
Sorry I didn't take pics of the brass before I deprimed and resized it. It's now all in the recycle bucket. I ordered 50 new pieces of Remington brass today and a foster go guage. Figured I'd start over. Until both of these come in I'm not going touch the rifle. Other than to thoroughly clean the bore and chamber.
Thanks again
Did you check out what carbon ring was and the indications for it. It immediately screamed out to me on your inital post. Standard cleaning will help prevent it but if you have it because someone was not properly cleaning you will have to scrub with a compound to get it out.
 
Unfortunately I don't have a bore scope. I didn't notice anything with my bore brush. I use hoppes #9 when cleaning my guns. Is their a solvent you would recommend?
 
Well I will not agree. He is using cci primers with arguably the hardest cups, indicates he may be seeing loosening primer pockets. These are signs if you choose to accept them or not. Flat primers on a factory load is also a sign of a max load. If people choose to ignore signs that's up to them but I will never encourage it.

Where does he indicate that his primer pockets are enlarged?

"Flat" primers can be subjective.
Sticky bolts, bolt face imprinting, and enlarged primer pockets somewhat less so.

As others have suggested, I have found 4350 to be the 7x57 go-to powder.

I would buy all THREE gauges on iffy milsporters; go, no go, AND field (7mm Mauser being a military cartridge intended to work even when dirty, or with "compromised" amunition.....and 7mm Mausers are known for "generous" chambers anyway)

...and can anybody explain to me why you would see pressure signs from excessive headspace?
Split cases, case head seperation, backed out primers on light loads yes, but flattened primers?
Most people would freek if they knew how machine guns are headspaced.
 
Where does he indicate that his primer pockets are enlarged?

"Flat" primers can be subjective.
Sticky bolts, bolt face imprinting, and enlarged primer pockets somewhat less so.

As others have suggested, I have found 4350 to be the 7x57 go-to powder.

I would buy all THREE gauges on iffy milsporters; go, no go, AND field (7mm Mauser being a military cartridge intended to work even when dirty, or with "compromised" amunition.....and 7mm Mausers are known for "generous" chambers anyway)

...and can anybody explain to me why you would see pressure signs from excessive headspace?
Split cases, case head seperation, backed out primers on light loads yes, but flattened primers?
Most people would freek if they knew how machine guns are headspaced.
The primer slams against the bolt harder with a lot of headspace, that will make primers flatter before there's and real pressure.
 
Ya normally when you have that much headspace the flat primers are the least of your worries.

What I thought interesting was I didn't even notice anything wrong sitting right next to the rifle (#4mk1) until I saw my buddy prying the forward part of the brass out of the chamber every shot.
We even tried a #3 bolt head, no joy. I thought it had to be brittle brass until he bought a box of commercial ammo with the same results with the #3 bolt head in place.
 
What I thought interesting was I didn't even notice anything wrong sitting right next to the rifle (#4mk1) until I saw my buddy prying the forward part of the brass out of the chamber every shot.
We even tried a #3 bolt head, no joy. I thought it had to be brittle brass until he bought a box of commercial ammo with the same results with the #3 bolt head in place.
The rim probably sealed it good, I can be very dangerous especially on early actions that don't divert gas to well.
 
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