Tru-Oil Liquid

[Ratdog68]

I've been re-doing a stock with a bottle of liquid Tru-Oil. Yes, I've been shaking it, and I store it with the lid "down" between coats. What's bothering me about the stuff is this... it must be applied rather quickly to avoid it "tacking" on me as I'm working my way along the stock. Areas that get touched (applying with my CLEAN bare fingers) "show", even after it dries. I'm letting it dry for two days between coats to allow it to harden well... but the areas showing the artificial texture of being touched while trying to overlap the application... they're having to be sanded down with the 1500 grit to the point where I'm hardly making "headway" with my application of coats. :banghead:

Shouldn't this stuff remain fluid for longer than this... and "blend" well for a longer period of time than this? I went on a mission this afternoon to try and get some of it in aerosol (NOT an easy task in ANTI-gun Seattle), wasn't able to get my hands on any. Is there a solvent to keep this stuff more fluid for a longer period of time? It's maintaining a "clear/amber" color and is about the consistency of a heavy motor oil.

 

[Das Jaeger]

Well now then

you work too slow , hee hee he , hurry man , hurry ! Just kidding but it will help .
You can delute it with Penitrol just like any other laquer or Varathane if you'd like . If you thought it takes a while to dry now , wait till you dilute it
Pentirol will keep it smoother too if your having a hard time with that . It is just a paint conditioner is all penitrol is , smooths out brush strokes etc, longer working time , etc .
I personaly don't want anything in my Tru-Oil , but thats just me
I also use steel wool not sand paper , but I do take it all off to the naked eye every single coat , it leaves only a micro thin coat each time that way but never builds up and peels or cracks like it will if you are trying to use it like varathanes .
You may want to try the areosol for that last coat if your lookin for high gloss over at the end . But what your gonna have is a COAT over , not a hand rubbed finish .
Also , the way I am doin it , you use Brownells 5F pollish and you can rubb it back out to serious high gloss if you'd like at the end but maintain my style of application , micro thin coats , rather than build ups that can peel or crack or get chipped .
If your impatient this is a BAD product for ya .
I hang my stocks by hangers , wire , etc , I never have to touch them except as I go down the stock with my oily finger or fingers , I useually try to use one finger . Fingerprints are a non issue this way if you learn how to work your oils and no when to go faster or slower . If you work in some heat with your motion and be very aware of where your hot and cold this process goes much easier for ya . Also, if you use the stock pollish I talk about, forget about those prints , they wont matter ! You'll buff all that last coat out anyway .

Not sure if that helps or not ?

Das jaeger

 

[Ratdog68]

Otay... m'be I'm doin' alright afterall. I'm using one finger during application. It's hanging up so no part of it is being touched while drying. I'm also using the butt plate screws in the stock to suspend a weight from to keep it taught as I apply the coats of oil. The 0000 wool isn't enough to get rid of the tacky overlap marks. I've been working them with the 1500 grit and then the 0000 wool after that. It's just a little frustrating to see it "tack" up so quickly as I'm applying it. It's definately SMOOTH to the touch as I'm fixing to apply the next coat. I sanded it down to the bare wood after the first 5 coats to fill the grain. I don't mind the two day wait between coats... I'm just not too pleased with how quickly it's "tacking" as I'm trying to get the next coat applied.

 

[greyling22]

I could get gloss, but it wasn't even when I applied with my fingers. I've since given up trying to achieve gloss and decided to embrace a satin finish. I keep thinking I could try a rubbing compound or buffing wheel to polish my finishes back to shine....

I'm working on wet sanding a stock right now with a tru oil paint thimmer mixture (I just dumpa little of each in the cup) I"m shooting for this http://riflestocks.tripod.com/fgrain.html

 

[Das Jaeger]

I notice then

your applying way too much of the product then if your getting any overlap problems at all . A little goes a long ways .
Apply it in the cold will help also if its flashing so fast . Do you have cold room ? Apply then go to the hot outside if you can .
oooo wool is plenty tot ake off the layer of film that SHOULD be being applid . That tells me your using way too much too .

Jeager

 

[Das Jaeger]

If you guys want high gloss

with oils , buy Brownels stock pollish , from stock pollish compound , to 3F compound , to 5F compound , you can buff these oils back up to super grade high gloss this way . No joke ! Thats how the Pros do this stuff . They even sell a kit that has all of them in it , just for you Ratface !

Jaeger

 

[Ratdog68]

your applying way too much of the product then if your getting any overlap problems at all . A little goes a long ways .
Apply it in the cold will help also if its flashing so fast . Do you have cold room ? Apply then go to the hot outside if you can .
oooo wool is plenty tot ake off the layer of film that SHOULD be being applid . That tells me your using way too much too .

Jeager

Maybe that's the trouble... applying in the colder area and them moving it to the warm/breeze to cure.

I'm puting my finger over the bottle mouth and tipping it to wet my finger and applying it in smooth/long strokes until it's run out of material to spread and re-wetting... maybe six wettings per application to the rifle stock.

 

[Ratdog68]

with oils , buy Brownels stock pollish , from stock pollish compound , to 3F compound , to 5F compound , you can buff these oils back up to super grade high gloss this way . No joke ! Thats how the Pros do this stuff . They even sell a kit that has all of them in it , just for you Ratface !

Jaeger

I may have to look into the buff kit. I hadn't reached a point of wanting to worry about the glossy finished look yet. I dunno... may opt for a satin look when done. What's the preferred method for that?

 

[Das Jaeger]

Thats what I am sayin

Ratdog68 , you can achieve any sheen you want with this stuff . Low buff, medium buff or gloss or high gloss . The worlds your oyster with the stock pollishes .
I only dab a q-tip size finger tip of Oil each time and work it in a small area till I build up heat in that area , wipe down from there or up , then work more oil into that then wipe down or up depending what direction I was going to start with .
I have seen guys just poor the stuff in there hands too , rubbing the entire stock down with the oil , biulding up heat, then one final wipe with no figerprints. Its an art or learned application is all , either works , and if your using Pollishes , all your worries are over anyway . If you aplly this stuff like Varathane, your gonna burn through the last coat if you use Pollish , so forget about Tru-oil if your lookin for thick , deep , car clear laquer look tha tis on my grips I do . But you can build it up like Varathanes, just remember it is going to chip and scratch easier, much easier .

Jaeger

 

[Ratdog68]

Ratdog68 , you can achieve any sheen you want with this stuff . Low buff, medium buff or gloss or high gloss . The worlds your oyster with the stock pollishes .
I only dab a q-tip size finger tip of Oil each time and work it in a small area till I build up heat in that area , wipe down from there or up , then work more oil into that then wipe down or up depending what direction I was going to start with .
I have seen guys just poor the stuff in there hands too , rubbing the entire stock down with the oil , biulding up heat, then one final wipe with no figerprints. Its an art or learned application is all , either works , and if your using Pollishes , all your worries are over anyway . If you aplly this stuff like Varathane, your gonna burn through the last coat if you use Pollish , so forget about Tru-oil if your lookin for thick , deep , car clear laquer look tha tis on my grips I do . But you can build it up like Varathanes, just remember it is going to chip and scratch easier, much easier .

Jaeger

Sounds like I'm doin' ok then... just wanted to get some input to see whether what I was ending up with was "typical". Never used this stuff before I did my bow.

I'm not lookin' for instant gratification with it either... just lookin' for some feed back to get an idea whether I'm going about it all wrong. Sounds like I need to apply in a cooler area and then hang it up in the warm breeze to cure.

I'm definately NOT glopping a thick coat on, letting it dry and repeating. I'm just used to being able to see overlapping areas "blend" as they settle a little better... like "Teak Oil" on a piece of fir.

 

[whosyrdaddy]

I have obtained fairly good results with True Oil by applying each coat as thin as I possibly can while avoiding dry spots. I generally apply between 10 and 15 coats allowing the recommended 2 hour dry between coats.

I apply with a new cloth single ply diaper covering my finger and moving at a pace that would allow me to coat the outside of an average size stock in less than 1 minute.

I buff between coats with 00 steel wool using light to moderate pressure until all of the bumps and hairs are gone.

One or two coats of Minwax Paste Wax finish will add depth and luster.

 

[billnpatti]

It sounds as though your Tru-Oil has gotten a bit too thick. Try adding a few drops of Mineral Spirits to it and mixing it well. Do not add too much or you will ruin your Tru-Oil. Just a few drops at a time until you get it thinned just a bit. Once you get it thinned, you will find that it works much easier. I usually get coats dry enough to steel wool and re-coat with only one day dry time. Once I get it coated to my satisfaction (usually 8 to 10 extremely light coats) I let it cure for at least a month. Then I go over it with 0000 steel wool dipped in Mineral Spirits. You just need to take the high gloss off. The mineral spirits act as a lubricant sort of like when you wet sand paint. Work carefully and rub lightly until the surface reaches a uniform satin finish. Wipe it clean and wipe with a rag dampened with the mineral spirits to get it squeeky clean. Then apply a good wax. I prefer Renaissance Wax. It is available from fine furniture stores or you can get it from gun supply dealers such as Brownell's, Midsouth, Midway, etc. If you use Renaissance Wax, apply it sparingly and buff immediately with a soft cloth. Do not let it dry or it is much harder to buff to a sheen. If you don't have Renaissance Wax, you can use any of the good paste floor waxes. Apply the wax and buff it to a beautiful sheen and you will have something to be proud of.

 

[Cosmoline]

Can I just say I used Tru-Oil the first few times I refinished a stock. I never liked it, and it always ended up with a nasty plastic sheen. I switched to hand-rubbed BLO and would NEVER go back. It takes a little longer to dry, but if you clean between coats with fine steel wool and use elbow grease the end results are spectacular. Way, way better than tru-oil.

 

[rcmodel]

Areas that get touched (applying with my CLEAN bare fingers) "show", even after it dries.

You are using WAY too much.
Just put a little dab on your fingertip and hand rub it in with the heel of your hand until there is nothing left.
Then repete.

I like to use a course cloth to hand buff between coats to.

There should not be enough of it left on the surface to get tacky when you handle it.

rc

 

[madcratebuilder]

For a high gloss finish try some Frombys tung oil finish, it's a high quality varnish made from a balanced blend of tung oil and other fine penetrating oils. It is super easy to apply with NO streaking. Apply enough coats to fill the grain buffing between coats with steel wool. 20-30 coats look fantastic.

For a more semi gloss finish use straight tung oil applying with the same procedure. I use tung oil finish on custom stocks, tung oil on custom and US military stocks and BLO on British military stocks. BLO well darken with age and well weep if in the direct sun for several hours.

This is about 25 coats of frombys tung oil finish with a final buff with stock polishing compound.


This stock is 20 coats of tung oil with a hand rubbed finish.


This stock is BLO


Tung oil on Italian wood.


The more you rub out and polish the tung oil the nicer the gloss or you can have a semi gloss with very little hand rubbing. Another good thing about tung oil is instant touch up, you get a scratch or ding, one or two drops well make it disappear.

 

[Ratdog68]

Thanks guys... appreciate the comments. I think I'll try a few drops of the mineral spirits and go even lighter on the application with a little more rubbing in by hand and see how that goes.

Also... appreciate the added pix of the examples of the finished look. Thanks.

 

[Cosmoline]

Remember that finished look is from hand rubbed TUNG oil, NOT tru-oil. Tung was the standard finish on US military arms and is a fantastic product. Tru-oil was created in some chemical lab and is unholy and ritually impure ;-)

 

[Das Jaeger]

I thought

Liseed oil was the standard US Military oil for eons, or was that called Linspeed if memory serves me better . Pretty confident in that , and the top of my jar even says so .

Jaeger

 

[Ratdog68]

AaaaHA !!! Me thinks we're gettin' somewhere now !!! The grain on this stock should be WELL filled now !! Sure glad I asked a question. Don't have any mineral spirits at the moment... so... figured I'd give my application technique a little change and see what happens.

In all... I probably used half as much as I have been with this coat's application. I rubbed it with my finger until it just began to "tack" and then rubbed fairly firmly with the heel of my hand for a good spell more... good heat generated with this process. Moved on and repeated until the whole stock was given the application and firm rubbing.

I'm already liking the looks of this coat MUCH better. A light buff with the 0000 wool pad should suffice now. I should know in a couple of hours' time.

Thanks again guys... appreciate the input.

 

[Cosmoline]

Well I believe they switched to tung by WWII. Something to do with supply. Maybe I'm wrong about that.

 

[madcratebuilder]

M1 and arly M14 used BLO. They made the switch to tung oil early in M14 production, late 50's?? M14 TM"s stated BLO can be used until current stocks are depleted. I'm sure there was a period of several years that both saw uses.

 

[Ratdog68]

Yup... NOW we're gettin' somewhere !! It's still not "dry" (two hours later), but lookin' great this time around. Happy Camper here !!

 

[Das Jaeger]

Good deal

Ratheadfacedog68 , right on , as long as your happy
There are allot of other really good oils out there to use too , and good oily Urathane mixes too .
One is one I like too from Brownells you may want to try sometime , tis Pro Custom , tis Tung and a urathane , nice stuff, lots faster than Tru-Oil .

Cool , look forward to some piccys from you soon . Almost done here with the Bounty Hunter Kentucky . Leaving town on "My" other work , machinist Millwright job for a week tomoroow , so gonna give you folks a break , gota turbine to rebuild , for real . Yeeeeehaaaaaaa am sure the Curmudgeons are clappin now !!!!

Cheers, Moe Money ! Das Jaeger

 

[Ratdog68]

Have a good hitch with work. Should have pix of the Cherokee up by the time you're back amongst us lunatics.

 

[Das Jaeger]

Thats a Capital

on the Lunatic part my friend !
Yeh, I bet your excited to get the TC back out and shoot her up and try to break her in again , put some new scratches on her . Just kidding , but I am sure you would be anxious to see how you did ? Should be fine though . I have had wood break around my epoxy , not through my epoxy , so you'll be Golden most likely too .

Right on , Das Jaeger Lunatic out