Trying to get the best axe I can

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AJAX22

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Because of some housing regulations in my new appartment i've recently discovered that my usual choices for home defense would violate my lease.
No guns, no gas for my chainsaw, no spears, spearguns, bangsticks, swords, tazers, peperspray, bb guns, etc. etc. etc.

An 'emergency fire axe' is 100% ok though.

I have purchased a vintage Gransfors double bitted axe head
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and am sending it to Mike Stewart of bark river knife and tool to have it hollow ground and re profiled so that it has more of a knife edge and a bit less weight (mike assures me that it will still be able to chop wood, but I don't think i'll be using it for that much).

I think it would be a good idea to have the head drilled through so that I can have a roll pin driven in as an added safety persuasion against the head getting loose.

I need to get a short strong handle made up for it that properly balances with the new weight of the axe head.

So... If anyone knows anything about axe handles (what is the strongest wood that I can get them made out of, who makes custom handles, who has the best reputation, etc) Any help would be appreciated.

Once It has been mounted, I'll have the handle leather wrapped so it won't slip if it gets wet with anything.

I'm still quite a ways out on this project (the axe head is on its way here, but mike will need about 4-6 weeks to work his magic on it) so I have a bit of time to shop around and find the best handle maker I can find.

I apologize if this has been discussed in another thread, I looked but couldn't find anything.
 
Because of some housing regulations in my new appartment i've recently discovered that my usual choices for home defense would violate my lease.
No guns, no gas for my chainsaw, no spears, spearguns, bangsticks, swords, tazers, peperspray, bb guns, etc. etc. etc.

What communist country do you live in?
 
Its still technically in the good ol US of A but it is in NYC, I'm working on getting university approval to have a firearm on university property (university owns my apartment even if it isn't on campus), so that I can then try to apply for my permit to have a firearm... but it looks like a long and involved process.

I had thought I was being clever by getting a chainsaw, but apparently I can't have any gasoline in it as it would be a 'fire hazard'

So plan B... Get an Axe
 
You're better off with a baseball bat. You might actually get some use out of it on weekends if the weather is good.
 
A good quality cane such as the Canemaster hickory heart cane below is legal anywhere in the world, even on an airplane.

Google Canemasters or Mark Shuey.

I am very happy with the quality of mine.

caneichf.jpg
 
You're better off with a baseball bat.

I agree with this sentiment whole-heartedly. Besides, haven't you ever read "Where the Red Fern Grows"? You could fall on your axe and gut yourself while coon hunting!
 
I saw your thread title and thought immediately "gransfors." So you did great with that choice. I would suggest keeping alterations to a minimum. If you have it well fitted to a good handle there's no need for any alterations. Use what gransfors uses--top grade hickory.

As far as self defense choices, if your life is in danger hang the lease. But that's up to you obviously. With a "forest" length handle that axe is an absolutely devastating weapon. If you're in cramped quarters swing length is a bit of a problem. I'd suggest going to a shop with some modern GB axes and seeing what heft you like. They have the forest length for light timber work that might work good.
 
I would have opted for one of those Khukris that

are made in India/Nepal. Excellent balance, sharp and cheap enough to be disposable. A tomahawk or boarding axe would have been my choice for an axe.
 
I appreciate the alternate suggestions, and I probably will be getting a cane at some point for walking around with.

But I chose an axe because I'm familiar with them. I spent some time with my old universities logging team and I'm comfortable with an axe. I'm unfamiliar with tomahawks and smaller axes (I played around with them a bit, but I'm not really comfortable with them)

I also feel that an axe has a bit more of a deterrent factor than a baseball bat or a cane against people breaking into the house.

I had thought about just saying 'hang the lease' but attending this school is costing me around 80K a year and if I got thrown out for having prohibited items.... well my family would be very disappointed.

How do you go about having an axe handle made/fitted?
 
Axe handles are sold in hardware stores. I use a 6" angle grinder if some shaping is needed.
 
I'm a bit confused by the fact that you were on the university logging team and don't know what the best material for an ax handle is (straight grain hickory) or how to fit it (the eye of the ax has a taper and ax handles have a taper so it wedges in and then can have a small metal wedge driven into the top end). If you're in NYC you're going to probably have a devil of a time getting an ax handle. Mike won't have any problem where he is.

BTW, I agree that there shouldn't be any need to reshape the head unless you just want it lighter. I also agree that the forester length handle would probably do the best, but the head may be too small for the eye and you will probably have to order a double bit handle from Gransfors Bruks and cut it down. Look at their section on fitting the handle for good instructions.

The Ax Book is available online.
 
I also feel that an axe has a bit more of a deterrent factor than a baseball bat or a cane against people breaking into the house.

Think, don't feel.

Choosing a weapon for its deterrent factor instead of its performance as a weapon is a bad idea.

Think about being covered in some rock-monster's HIV/Hep-C infected blood.

I choose a blunt force trauma weapon for contact-distance defense.
 
'm a bit confused by the fact that you were on the university logging team and don't know what the best material for an ax handle is (straight grain hickory) or how to fit it (the eye of the ax has a taper and ax handles have a taper so it wedges in and then can have a small metal wedge driven into the top end).

The team provided the equipment, and handles were fitted by the manufacturer. We learned how to maintain the equipment, but we didn't order the stuff and they had a guy who did the handles if/when they broke.

As far as me not knowing how the axe head is mounted to the handle, I do know about the little wedges, but I had assumed that there was some degree of fitting between the axe handle and the head prior to driving the wedges into place, I've always been suspicious of one size fits all solutions.

I couldn't tell you what make/model/type of pads I used when I was on the football team either, I showed up and they handed me stuff, when it broke they fixed it or replaced it. I practiced, I played but I wasn't equipment manager or anything.

Thanks for the pointers, I'll read up on this a bit before I proceed.
 
Then let me suggest you go all medieval redneck chain gang horror movie on them, if they don't want to be reasonable about your options 8^).

Thing about this item is, this bears a close resemblance to one of the oldest of pole weapons- the bill or billhook. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bill_(weapon) . Its advantages are those of an assegai or short spear, in that it can be used in close quarters for stabbing as well as slashing, as all edges of the blade are sharpened. And if there's room for it, then the full roundhouse axe style swing is possible. But IMHO it's more versatile than an axe, plus you can claim to be keeping your local landscaping under complete domination.

lpl
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http://www.engineersupply.com/surveyors-brush-axe-ditch-bank-blade-813008.aspx

http://www.alleninst.com/ct/store/ct_viewItem.asp?idProduct=561

http://www.alleninst.com/ct/store/ct_viewItem.asp?idProduct=563
 
As an old country boy who grew up on a farm that didn't see electricity till I was in school I have a fair acquaintance with single and double bit axes, as a boy scout I raised more than my share of blisters with a hatchet. I still have a collection of axes in my shop including Felling axes, Splitting Axes, 1 Broad ax and Adzes. I don't know how many tomahawks, hatchets and throwing axes without taking an inventory and I would use none of them for self defense in an apartment. Ax handles yes, ash, hickory doesn't make any difference. It would be quicker to swing and easier to control. Unless the attacker was heavily armored it would be quick to put him down with less chance of the head hitting and tearing up something you didn't want sliced, diced and mangled.

Go with hso's suggestion and get a baseball bat, a nice heavy wood one. If you absolutely have to have an ax then get a battle ax, there are a lot of sites that would gladly sell you one and it would be a better fit for close quarters whacking.
 
Get yourself a Brooklyn Smasher and set it by the door with a fielder's glove and a baseball. If you ever have to use it, you won't be giving some smartassed prosecutor an excuse to sing that little ditty about Lizzie Borden in court. ;)
 
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I was just about to mention the Brooklyn Smasher. :p And I live in Gastonia. NC minds must think alike. I think Cold Steel also sells a wicked Assegi, but the bat would be a lot better for political relations. :rolleyes:
 
Just stick with the standard ball bat and stay away from things like the Brooklyn Smasher.
 
"Members of the Jury, I want you to watch this video from the manufactures of this deadly weapon that ..."

Stunned silence as the typical CS video runs.

"As you can see, this is not made by a sporting goods company...."
 
Anything in that lease about a morningstar or a flail?

Horrible suggestion.

In general, a bat is a good tool for this. Get a used glove and ball, too, or buy new and break 'em in.

J
 
forget the bat.... long 36in crow bar. make sure you have tools. Hell of a lot more effective then bat but you need to be strong to use it as its heavy.
 
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