"Tweaking" surplus ammo?

[Bluehawk]

As I mentioned in this thread earlier...my Mosin Nagant was piercing the primers. I checked firing pin protrusion and it was minimal so I knew it had to be the ammo since no other surplus I had used was doing this. I pulled the powder and it was at the correct weight...50 grains. Since this Czech ammo is designed to be used in cooler weather than here in CA (was 98-105 degrees when this was happening) I simply experimented by backing off two grains at a time until the the problem stopped. It stopped at 44 grains.
I later took some of this same ammo to Virginia with me to a buddys place and shot it in the Fall of 2005...firing it with the full charge of 50 grains...weather was in the low-70's...no primer piercing.

 

[oldgold]

I did this with a bunch of .223 of dubious origin. It shot six inch groups from my AR.

Pulled three bullets and weighed the powder from each. High to low was almost three grains ! Pulled two hundred, poured powder in hopper and dropped the average weight. Replaced the 55 grain FMJ with 50 grain Hornadays and got just under two inch groups.

FMj bullets that I pulled varied in weight form 54-56.5 grains. Gave them away.

 

[mgkdrgn]

I have pulled down some '86 Albanian 7.62x54R milsurp, ran a 10 round average on the powder charge and reduced the charge less than 10%. I did a partial neck size to hold the bullet, and reseated the same bullet to the original COAL and recrimped with a Lee FCD.
The main purpose was to reduce recoil and stabilize the powder charge at +- .1gr average, instead of the slightly more than +- .5gr average that I measured originally.
The original milsurp ammo kicked wicked in my M44 with the steel butt plate. I have since put it into an ATI stock with a recoil pad. Much better.

I've not tried these revamped milsurp rounds yet, as I have a supply of Prvi-Partizan non-corrosive soft points and FMJBT to use.



NCsmitty

I cut mine down to 75%, and reload into brass with a non-corrosive primer. Shoots great, non corrosive, and I don't have to see my orthopedic surgeon after an afternoon at the range.

 

[Tilos]

I've read all the rework/modifying to purchased ammo posted here and have to wonder where the savings is.

With all the labor and rework using reloading equipment, why not just buy the componnnts you want...and reload.

Anyone care to educate me?
Is it a rifle only thing?

 

[NCsmitty]

I've read all the rework/modifying to purchased ammo posted here and have to wonder where the savings is.

I don't expect everyone to understand the method for the madness. Let's just say in my case, I have a passion to take mediocre ammo and improve it's capabilities for accuracy, if possible. It's just one facet of the world of reloading that I have enjoyed for many years.
Not everything has to have a monetary savings, it can be done for the fun factor.
Unfortunately, for some, it's not a labor of love and discovery, it's a chore. Those folks will never understand.



NCsmitty

 

[Bluehawk]

why not just buy the componnnts you want...and reload.

I paid about 10-cents a round for the 7.62x54R surplus ammo...please tell me where I can buy all the components to reload that is as cheap or cheaper??
As NCsmitty said...add in the "fun factor"..if it's not fun...why are ya even doing it in the first place????

 

[Tilos]

Oh, OK.

I'm the first to admit to being a reloader who shoots and also do a lot of stuff that's not based on cost savings.

No doubt that 10-cents per round is worth it, even if you just pull and use the bullets, if they're not steel core.

If the primers are corrosive do you de-prime to salvage the brass?
That there would be too dangerous for me.

We're talking about modifying purchased ammo, and at 10-cents per round, what do you modify?
Bluehawk:
I reread your post about changing the powder charge to reduce pressure, so I guess that's your reason and I understand.
I also know that commercial loaders use powder differently than reloaders and adjust the powder volume based on a pressure test, not weight.

 

[Bluehawk]

If the primers are corrosive do you de-prime to salvage the brass?

Almost all foreign surplus ammo is Berdan primed so no..you wouldn't be depriming the casings...unless you have a good supply of Berdan primers. Corrosive ammo is no problem really...just clean the weapon when you get home or the next day or so. Hoppes No.9 bore cleaning solvent is great to use and it specifically states it's for both corrosive and non-corrosive ammo.

We're talking about modifying purchased ammo..

Actually, we're discussing modified military surplus ammo.

 

[Tilos]

Bluehawk:
Thanks for the info

 

[justashooter in pa]

berdan primed turkish light ball 8X57 MG ammo reduced in charge weight from 43 grs to 34 grs to get 2200 fps in an '88 commission rifle.