Uberti 1851 Navy London in .36 Troubleshooting for Carry

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gtrgy888

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Hi y’all,

First post here from the hills of the US western desert. I decided carrying an Uberti 1851 London in .36 would be more thematically and historically appropriate to my setting concealed under a duster than the polymer 9 mm I usually carry. Since Covid already mandated face coverings, it gave a great public excuse for a bandana while the ammo shortage meant that percussion shooting would be a smart economic move so I can save my ammo stash for interesting times. So I guess the cowboy aesthetic chose me. In future posts, I’ll be discussing my methods of loading, carrying, and shooting the 1851 as well as cataloguing the results of shooting it into various odd objects with a variety of powder loads under a .380 round ball.

For the first 6 months, this was a project gun to keep me busy on weekends out of the office. I smoothed some parts with sandpaper (hand, bolt, frame, springs), filed off the right side recoil shield lip to keep it from catching caps, filed a slight uniform gap between the cylinder and forcing cone (paper width) to reduce binding as a result of powder fouling, and crowned the chamber openings, forcing cone, and muzzle VERY gently with a 3/5 dremel by hand to smooth the transition of ball to barrel and smooth its exit from the muzzle.

With this preliminary work done, I was itching to fill up the chambers and shoot! So I bought some triple 777, loaded up 21 grains per chamber under lubed wads as demonstrated by just about every damn YouTuber and internet “expert” and rode out to federal land to cap up and shoot some paper!

The first visit was a catastrophe. The #10 CCI’s wouldn’t seat fully under finger pressure, so they had 50% reliability. And the 21 grain loading seemed a bit anemic for anything more serious than rabbit hunting.

Before the 2nd trip I wanted to test long term stability of the wadded load, so I kept the cleaned gun loaded and capped with 21 grains of 777 and Cabela’s lubed wads to see how well the loads held up after a month loaded. After finally getting it to the range again, the first shot was pathetic! Instead of a bang, I heard a pathetic FZZZ and watch a cloud of powder spit downrange while onlookers in other lanes snickered. The 2nd shot actually seemed to pull the gun in my hand. I could feel the ball slowly grinding through the barrel, almost squibbing, and baaarely leaving it was moving so slow. Three out of six caps didn’t pop at all, even after full seating with a wooden dowel. Even after popping fresh caps, I couldn’t ignite the powder. I was able to avoid the indignity of needing to pull the three remaining balls at home by unscrewing the cones, dribbling a small amount of 777, reinstalling the cones, and using fresh caps to empty the 3 chambers (FZZZ... pDOP... PIFF) and watch more ruined powder spit out the end. Cleaning was a chore for that trip. I learned that those lubed wads so many insist on using will ABSOLUTELY ruin 777 powder. The rest of the cylinders loaded brand new with 21 grains and wads shot fine, although they hardly recoiled more than a .22 lr (POP, POP, etc.).

Before the next trip, I was determined to finally make this embarrassing curio perform like a GUN. I swabbed the chambers and cones with rubbing alcohol to remove every trace of oil, air dried, loaded a full 30 grains of 777 compressed VERY TIGHT under an oversized .380 ball for each chamber, lubed the ball edges with Bore Butter on a Q-tip, then seated the caps by pressing HARD on the hammer while pointing downrange. Then I put the 1851 in the safe, slammed the door, and refused to look at it for a month, disgusted by how this anemic, obsolete waste of money was performing and wondering whether even the most ardent Democrat would bother banning this POS. After a month of sitting in the safe, I took it out again and SUCCESS! All 6 chambers went BANG and kicked in the hand like a gun ought to. I even saw some dirt kicked up from the impacts downrange.

Some takeaways: Check the fit and finish of the gun and make any modifications before ever visiting the range.

If you load with 777, make sure no lube or moisture at all can touch it! After a month, it will become mud in the chambers and will have barely enough foot pounds of energy to leave the barrel. After cleaning and lubing the cylinder, remove any trace of lube with rubbing alcohol from the chambers and cones. Allow the cone threads to keep bore butter so you can easily unscrew them after shooting, but the rest should be as sterile, dry, and oil-free as a surgical tool before loading.

More updates to follow!
 
Some takeaways: Check the fit and finish of the gun and make any modifications before ever visiting the range.

I'm glad that you finally got a few of the details sorted out.
Another takeaway: New pistoleros should always check in with the THR black powder forum BEFORE heading to the range for the first time.
But it's better late than never.
Welcome to the forum gtrgy888, and thanks for sharing some grins. :D
 
Real blackpowder has a lower ignition temperature than any of the substitutes, so if you get the chance try some high quality real blackpowder in your 1851 I suspect it will ignite more reliably. .36 caliber open tops are not magnums and you invite trouble if you insist on using maximum loads.

I question the wisdom of using an unreliable revolver for personal defense when there are so many better options, but your gun, your choice, your consequences. Sincerely, good luck.
 
I'd say, first off, get some different size and brand of caps, and see what works best. I'm in the middle of that right now with a revolver I recently purchased. And unless your pistol has been tuned by a professional, don't use too light of a mainspring, and I prefer the hammer to rest on a nipple, when unloaded and uncapped, rather than having the "ideal" small, micro-space between the hammer face and nipple.

Before taking a revolver, or any blackpowder firearm out in the field, for hiking/trekking/hunting/exploring, I too always clean it with alcohol, as the final step.

Black powder will also go "soft" from lubed wads, but not as bad as 777 from the sounds of it. I did a lot of experimenting with that in the past. With my .44, I use a dry felt wad dipped in pure hot bee's wax. That works fine, in the .44, but I found that it's difficult to get one seated or started in the chamber of a .36 caliber. Just due to the smaller size, and big fingers. My pistols remain loaded for long periods of time, so loads going soft has been an interest to me.

What I've come to use lately under a ball in a .36, is to use a felt wad that has been dipped in a melted lube that is not as oily as what you would find in a wonder lube, something with a high content of bee's wax or parrafin, kind of soft and tacky, but not oily, and then a dry felt wad under that. That of course will reduce your powder charge a bit.

To get a little more punch from a .36, you might try using a lubed slug or "conical" bullet. That does not require a wad, and will hit harder than a ball. Faster to reload too.

I personally do not like 777. Here's my story. I have an 1860 that I've had forever. Like, 30+ years. Always reliable. Never chain fired, and "back in the day" I never used wads. Didn't know about them. Then one day, tried the great new, better than sliced bread 777 powder. Loaded her up, fired six shots. "Hey!" That stuff works great"!! Loaded another cylinder up, second shot, she chain fired, and blew off the front sight and the loading lever latch. Regardless of all that, black has a much lower ignition temperature, and I think it's a more reliable powder in a revolver. In fact, just my opinion, but I think 777 is junk. There...I said it. !!! :)
 
Thanks J-Bar, future updates will detail how I obtained 100% reliability out of the gun... as well as some problems arising from the maximal loads which have prompted a reduction in powder grains.

As for choosing the arm for self defense, I have a rare progressive disease that will ensure a very unpleasant old age. If some desperado wants to grant me a warrior’s death, it would likely be a relief to me and my family. That said, I have no doubt the gun will do its job just fine and considering my luck so far, I’ll likely survive any attack to a ripe old age.
 
Get rid of the CCI #10 caps. Get CCI 11 or Remington 10 and watch your non cap ignition problem go away. 30 seems heavy for a 36 cal. Try 25 and put a waxed cardboard separator between your powder and wad. A cut up paper milk carton works.
Don’t give up these things can be fun and rewarding and addicting.
 
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Triple 7 is touchy and ignites poorly. I do not use lubed wads-never have. Remember
that T-7 is citrus based and cannot be compressed reliably. Use dry wads if any
and stay with BP or maybe pyrodex supreme. Also, T-7 cannot be stored more than
4 or 5 years. It cakes up and ignites poorly. Use a wooden dowel to seat your caps or
a stout pen. The 36 is a great gun and excellent for personal protection.
 
Sorry to hear of your illness as well and welcome to the forum! What I say may send some into "orbit" but, if I were going to carry a cap gun for SD, it would be a well sorted, coil sprung, Remington of Army cal. with a 5 1/2" tube on a steel frame. The same setup that I would use for Cowboy Action. The main reason would be for what you're looking for - reliability (coil action) and ease of reloading in the form of extra cyls. With that setup, a pair of conversion cyls would give one the ability to shoot almost any category SASS has . . . while using the same (and familiar) platforms. The Remington pattern isn't for everyone but it's never bothered me when shooting.

My favorite though, is the Colt open top pattern and that may sound odd after my opening paragraph but my circumstances are such that I HAVE to shoot smokless cartridge guns in indoor ranges or drive to a neighboring county to shoot bp outside . . . and I refuse to do so!! So, I get to shoot my favorite revolvers anyway, but in cartridge form! . . . and I gotta say, wiping them off and putting them up is awesome!!!

Since you have what you have though, there is a lot you can do to increase reliability along with maintaining mechanical accuracy. Mandatory would be fixing the short arbor (you said it's an Uberti, so the arbor is short), then you will have the same revolver each time you reassemble it! . . . not to mention it's the arbor that dictates the barrel/cylinder clearance (not wedge placement). Other things would be definitely a cap post, an action shield and CORRECT timing!! Other things deal with parts longevity, choice of spring types (flat, wire, or coil-torsion), how parts are setup for wear-in not wear-out along with stress removal to prevent breakage. There's a lot that can be done . . . it just depends on how far you want to go . . . good luck and have fun!!

Mike
 
You carefully laid out your reasons for caring a 19th century firearm in a 19th century setting then proceeded to load it in a 20th century fashion. Double doubt if Colts were loaded with a lubed wad over the powder and certainly not with a sugar based powder like 777. :)

Enough 3F black to leave room for a conical or ball, no grease at all in the chambers would be more like it. The chambers loaded thusly would reliable go bag after months if not years. ;)
 
I've always been a bit "dubious" about packing extra cylinders around. Those suckers are heavy, and would not be comfortable in any kind of pocket. Packing them on a belt ain't so hot, they stick way out, don't "conceal" at all. Like speed loaders, the gun might not print at all, but the speed loaders sticking way out do draw attention. Methinks spare cylinders would be in the glove box of the car or truck when needed most.

But, I will go back to conicals, they will produce a bit more ooooomph, without requiring more powder, and are faster to load, and are certainly more 19th century. A conical/slug in a .36 is not a bad defense load. Certainly on par with a .380acp. If you get a kit to make combustable cartridges, and carry a capper, you can reload super fast, and a small little tin or Altoids box will carry quite a few, and be nice and light in the pocket.
 
In Sixguns, Elmer Keith recounted the effectiveness of cap and ball revolvers as described to him by two Civil War cavalrymen, one Union and one Confederate. According to them, round balls were more effective than conicals when used against men. Conicals provided better penetration when foraging for cattle.

19th Century conicals were rather pointy and thus penetrated well but did not punch clean holes. If relying on a conical for defense I suggest using a more modern design with as wide a meplat as possible. Myself, I'd stick with round balls and as heavy a powder charge as possible.

YMMV.
 
Remember when Captain Red-Legs Terrel shot the Kid in the back with a .36? I wonder if he was using a ball or slug? Took the Kid a long time to die.
 
It seems to me when John Wilkes Booth was shot in that tobacco barn, it took him awhile to die too. But I don't know if it was a .36 or .44 caliber revolver. IIRC the bullet transected his spine at about neck level.
 
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What you did there... I saw it... groan...

It seems to me when John Wilkes Booth was shot in that tobacco barn, it took him awhile to die too. But I don't know if it was a .36 or .44 caliber revolver. IIRC the bullet transacted his spine at about neck level.

Years ago I broke my fool neck. Fractured the 5th and 6th cervical vertebrae. I was fortunate enough that it didn’t impinge on the spinal cord but it messed up my basketball game for a while. I didn’t die though.

and back to topic. Real blackpowder... if you are serious about self defense with this type of pistol (even at the point it might not feel like your life is worth defending) at least make a big BOOM!! and be sure you’re the LAST mf’er to die. My two cents.
 
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Wads, Grease, cardboard cards, fillers the frontier solider, cowboy, trapper or hunter must of had one big possibles bag. :) , or maybe the just carried ball, powder and caps, the solider paper cartridges.

And that is why I've gone to slugs/conicals/bullets for the most part. (except in my 1862 grouse and rabbit gun) Civil war type cap pouch, capper around my neck and small powder flask carries everything I need for 50 rounds easy. Dump powder in chamber from flask, take bullet from pouch, put in chamber, ram down and cap. (repeat four more times) Very quick and no fumbling around with wads or grease and especially not fillers.

At the range, combustable/paper cartridges would be faster, when they are laid out on the bench, or in a shirt pocket, but in the field, those things are kind of delicate, can't really throw them in a pouch or pocket and jostle them around. Added step of getting tin or box out, and getting cartridges out of box. ? Or not. Seems that way to me. However, I do look forward making such cartridges in the future.
 
I like the utilitarian approach. Bag of round balls, bottle of powder with funnel, measure, caps, and Crisco with a popsicle stick applicator. I’ve gotten very fast with my process: pour powder in measure from funnel, dump in chamber and tap to level, seat a ball, repeat until full. Then popsicle applicator of Crisco swiped over the top of the cylinder. Put any remaining grease on the arbor pin, reassemble, then cap all 6, seating with the hammer while pointed downrange. I can do that in 5 minutes now.
 
That could be interesting, we should all time our reloads and compare. NO CHEATING!!! :) My reloads are geared towards when I'm out and about in the wilderness, so the less things I have to do, or fish out of a pouch, the better. Speed is important to me, now that we've had our first wolf attack on a human, right up where I hunt/hike/trek/explore. (google: "man shoots wolf while checking game cameras in Colville Washington")(which actually happened like 20 miles from Colville)
 
Out here we get lots of big critters. Best time to see the tracks is way out past the paved roads during dawn after a snowy night. I saw coyote, antelope, and rabbit tracks everywhere. I also saw a kitty paw about the size of my head! So the 1851 was little comfort, even loaded as hot as I safely could. It was even less comfort when I saw what looked like boot prints halfway up a hill tracking up over a ridge. Out of curiosity, I got closer, but these were no boots. The tracks sunk into the dirt and left claw marks up front. That means a bear was walking up that same game trail soon enough before me that he had started walking up the hill when the snow came down minutes earlier and was right that moment somewhere over that ridge. I said “GOOD MORNING BEAR!” and turned right around to find a different hill.
 
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