Ultimate Pyramid trigger system for Glock 19

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ohbythebay

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So it arrived !!! It may be old hat for some of you but for me, like another Christmas. I have been waiting since Memorial Day weekend (their sale had a huge response)

Will install tomorrow and shoot Saturday...woohoo....

Skeletonized striker, striker spring, titanium safety plunger and of course, the whole trigger assembly

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That looks awesome I have a glock 19 can you please explain as to what it is supposed to improve on I am wanting to know if it makes the trigger lighter mainly
 
Don't like the diamond cutouts in the connector. Sharp angles create stress points prone to break(yeah, pyramid. I get it). Round holes would be better. No holes would be even better. There are ways. Glocks actions, like most, are a balancing act. Try to find "Dremeling the Glock by Dale Rhea" online. I don't have access to the link at present.
Just don't go crazy with it. These are competition modifications. Some I wouldn't carry with. Some I do.
 
I am wanting to know if it makes the trigger lighter mainly

There are a lot of companies that offer replacement trigger for Glocks that lower the pull weight and clean it up. Some offer adjustment to get rid of pre and over travel, etc.

However, you get the best results with gen1-3 variants. Something about the new angle of the trigger housing not getting as good results with gen4's.
 
Horseman

It works great on the Gen 4

So what does it do?

Because the safety plunger is rounded, it makes a cleaning press of the safety plunger (the stock one is flat and has to ride an edge, small as it is)

The skeletonized striker is lighter (moves faster) and the tip is just a tad longer (helps for a better strike)

The trigger assembly itself not only lightens the pull but travel is much less and reset is much better.

Overall, since they had the sale, was worth getting. Normally $249, I paid $189 on a memorial day sale...

As to the cutouts being stress points for breaking ? I don't use it as a hammer. The odds of those breaking are slim and none.
 
I have modified several Glocks, Gen 3 and 4.

The Pyramid trigger system is one of about 3 that are very good at smoothing out the trigger pull, and allowing the user to limit the pre-travel and over travel on the trigger. This aids accuracy.

The diamond cut outs are on the connector, to designate it the "double diamond" connector from the Glock store. It is a simple, low stress part, do not give those cut outs a second thought.

This connector serves to lower the trigger pull. I believe it is a 3.5 lb type, so, it should lower the trigger pull from the factory 5.5 lbs, to about the 3.5-4 lb range.

The connector and the Pyramid trigger bar smooth out the pull because they are highly polished and coated to reduce friction. The stock trigger bar is very rough. You can accomplish about the same thing doing the "25 cent trigger job." This is simply polishing all the connecting parts of the trigger bar to a mirror finish. Flitz and a cotton swab can be used.

If you want to further reduce the trigger pull, it is possible to get it as low as 2.0 lbs. In order to do this, you need to install a 2.0 lb striker spring, higher "competition" trigger spring (helps pull the trigger) and a lower power firing pin safety spring.

That is about all there is to it...and one of the reasons people like Glocks. You can change everything.

If you find the trigger still not to your liking after you install that trigger system....think about getting the Zev V4 connector, from Glockworx. $15. It just gives you a slightly different trigger action, you might like it better. I do.

All the above said, the real value of the trigger system is to limit pre-travel and over travel. You reduce the trigger pull using a 3.5lb connector (Ghost, Pyramid, Zev) and lighter striker spring (2,3,4 lbs). The combination of the connector and striker spring will let you customize your pull. You should be able to make it anything from 2.0 to 3.5 or 4 lbs (and more actually...if you install the NY trigger etc...).

Hope this helps
Best
J
ps - Gen 4 glocks...the only difference is this raised point (punched in) on the trigger bar, where the safety plunger is. This point tends to drag along the inside of the slide and thus increase friction. It is there to help guide the bar on the safety plunger. NOT telling you how to deal with this but....google it and you will find some people filing it down to some degree and/or polishing it. Some of the after market trigger systems just do not have this.
 
PSS

I should quickly add

1. If the Pyramid trigger system does have that little raised spot on it....I would not do anything to it. The coating is polished enough to reduce friction. You would not want to grind through that.

2. If you do reduce the trigger pull to 3.5 lbs or so, and the gun is for anything besides dedicated range use, you might consider a safety. There are only a couple after market safeties for the Glock. The Siderlock might be one to look at. It is a simple cross bolt safety in the trigger itself.

Anyway...just my $0.02, IMHO, YMMV. I am not connected with ANY of these companies.

Thanks
 
Captain....

Great write-up...

I just finished installing mine...20 minutes for the total job. What made it easy was I watched the 2 provided videos from the site...step by step. Piece of cake.

The gun feels awesome and I can't wait to try it tomorrow. I used the 4lb striker spring (could have used the 2 or 6) - took their advice and started it the middle. There is almost zero pre-travel. The only pre-travel seems to be pulling in the safety on the trigger..which you can do and hold..any pressure after that..click ! Reset is a fraction of what it was
 
Good job on the install. The take up and over travel are adjustable, if you have the need to.

It does create a trigger that is as close to a 1911 as you can get. You can further refine the pull weight with different springs. I believe you can get 2lb, 3lb springs individually from the Glock store. In addition, you can get a competition (heavier) trigger spring...that also lightens the trigger pull.

The safety plunger in the kit comes with its reduced power spring.

The number of after market items you can get for this pistol is pretty amazing.

Enjoy
 
One of the reasons I like the glock

You can take it apart 100% and its a piece of cake...also to get back together...LOL

The hardest part I had was getting the dang trigger pin back in..getting it out was easy (that was supposed to be the hard part)..but it all worked..

I enjoy taking guns apart, cleaning and putting back ..but my CZ will be 5 times harder to take down to that level...
 
The CZ is rather simple, not much more than the Glock.

Next time you have the trigger out, can you compare where the pin that connects the trigger bar to the trigger sits to the factory setup? It seems most of the better trigger options are altering where this point happens to keep reliable spring weights yet reduce trigger weight and keep crispness.
 
I used the 4lb striker spring (could have used the 2 or 6) - took their advice and started it the middle.

Be aware that you will more than likely have to go back up in spring weight, even with the extended striker due to light strikes. Esp. If you use a lot of cheap ammo (Tula, etc.)

I've been down that road and was getting a handful of light strikes on my competition glock using factory ammo (WWB or Win NATO) and a Vanek trigger w/jaeger striker and 4# spring. The Jaeger is purportedly the best, but I was still getting 1-2 LS per 200rds which wouldn't be that bad for a range only gun, not exactly good when against a timer. went back up to a 5.5# which added a tad bit more weight, but the LS Issue went away.
 
Hi T

I keep hearing that but I have had the Glock Store 2# striker spring on two competition Glocks (a G19 and now a G17) and never had a problem with light strikes. I have put through WWB, UMC, Blazer, Magtech, Am Eagle ammo (147gr), GEC? (124gr), etc. No Russian or eastern euro stuff, however.

[Note for FYI, gun really likes Fed Premium...but it is hard for me to find now....it is my preferred general shooting round and the brand I use in local and friendly competitions]

My latest project - not completely finished - is a G17. Glock store 2# striker spring, nitride coated safety plunger and spring, competition trigger spring. Zev V4 connector. 25 cent trigger job. Runs great. 2.0lb trigger pull, very smooth. little take up and over travel. Highly accurate. Ordered a set of Dawson sights (FO front, black adjustable rear). And will add a match barrel sometime soon.

I wonder if it is the reduced mass firing pin? I have always used the stock firing pin, because I cannot believe a reduced mass firing pin, with a reduced weight spring does what they say it will. Defies physics.

Thanks

J
 
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Good stuff to know...and...

I might just move to the 6lb spring..

First, went to the range today. The trigger is awesome. Take up is only on the red safety ...then click, reset, click...pretty nice and very smooth..no crunch, no travel..

On the flip side...Out of approx. 150 rounds fired - I DID have two light primer strikes. They were not fail to feed, they fed fine. But no BANG. Rack the slide, spit the round, good to go. So there may be some sensitivity on the ammo..still, very much enjoyed the trigger action.

On a side note...shot about the same through my CZ. Sigh. There is nothing not to love about that gun. Makes me feel like a marksman...LOL..At 15 yards, 45 ft..I was shooting bulls and half bulls easily...seemed to hone in on one spot at about 1 oclock on the bull and wound up punching paper until it was silver dollar size...at 45 feet !!!

Hey, I like both so neither of them is going anywhere..don't get any ideas...:D
 
Might be a good opportunity to do a test. Put the stock firing pin back in and see if you have anymore light primer strike FTF.

Best
J
 
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