Used Starrett Dial Calipers?

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Sweet Agony

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Greeting guys, a recent post about the accuracy of digital calipers, i.e. Harbor Freight and other, got me thinking about the accuracy of my rounds. So far I have been okay and 'most' have passed the plunk test, however a few have not.

I like quality instruments and I normally don't mind paying the price because I know I am getting quality. What risk, if any do I have purchasing used Starrett calipers. I found this one on EBay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/STARRETT-12...d=100033&prg=1011&rk=4&rkt=4&sd=301043933420&

I'm not stuck on this one, it is just the first one I found, but it is a good starting place.

What do you guys think?
 
Looks to be a nice calipers. I do not see any risk. I am guessing bidding will go much higher.
 
Get a standard. Calipers are not something used for "real" accuracy, for OAL measurements with reloading Chinese stuff will do. If you really want to be accurate you want a micrometer. That said I have a lot of Starrett equipment and put it on par with Brown and Sharpe and Mitutoyo. I have them all, along with really cheap stuff, just depends on what you need and what you want to spend.

Sounds a lot like reloading equipment, doesn't it.
 
I agree.

The $9.95 harbor Freight digital calipers are at least as accurate as anyone else's dial or digital calipers costing 10 times as much.

I have both Starrett & Brown & sharp mikes left over from before I retired doing machine shop stuff.
And I have two pair of HF $9.95 digital calipers.
I keep one up-stairs with the reloading manuals, and one in the basement with the reloading equipment.

I use the harbor Freight digital calipers all the time, because they are just as accurate as the big buck stuff.
And much easier for old eyes to read without doing the eye-strain cyphering on the dial indicator.

rc
 
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I have a HF digital caliper in the reloading room that does 90% of the measurements. Good enough, easy to read, etc.

I have a Mitutoyo dial caliper that I use out in the shed with the lathe.

I have a Brown & Sharp dial caliper that I use once in a while, either to double check something, or just to feel its silky smooth operation.

I have B&S and Mitutoyo micrometers for the critical stuff, or stuff that needs to be pretty close to the nearest .0001. It takes both practice and repetition to read to the nearest .0001 accurately and repeatedly. Most of us do not do it often enough to stay sharp with it.

Those Starett calipers are nice, and certainly worth buying if you can find them at a good price. They are really worth the full price IMO, but for reloading, we just don't need them. Check the zero on the HF calipers regularly, use reasonable care, and don't rely on them for anything but the nearest .001. Ignore the little half sized 5, except to realize you are over the nearest .001. If you need .0001, get a micrometer, but there is very little in reloading that does.
 
I agree that for most reloading purposes the economy caliper can do the job. If I am going to use a caliper all day long I want a better brand, such as B&S or Starett. My reason is comfort. With the higher end caliper the edges have been broken, the locks work better and the readings are more accurate. That said, I bought some off-brand 15 years ago and still use them for reloading. And like Walkalong, my B&S is by the lathe. I would buy the HF caliper on sale, and look for a 1" mike in an economy line. With the mike get a 1" standard for checking both the mike and the caliper.
 
If you can get those Starrets for 100 bucks or less, do it. Then you'll buy them once, instead of every couple years and save in the long run.

The simplest way to check a caliper for repeatability is to open it to 6", then slide it shut all the way. Set to zero and repeat several times. No need for a gage block.

I avoid the "gunshop" calipers, Harbor Freight, etc. because they simply don't last. While they work, they work fine. But because they aren't built well, they fall apart after some use. Took me two sets of those for home use to figure that out.

Your best bet is to stick with e-bay, craigs list, etc and keep shopping for deals. Look into what the "budget" names are for reputable makers. For example, Amtos is made by Browne & Sharp.
 
I have a set of Starrett analog calipers. Them and my Wilson SS micrometer case trimmer is the only 2 tools I have total confidence in. All my other reloading gadgets make me wonder sometimes
 
I've wore out a set of Starrett #120, 20+ yrs of use. If used in a dirty environment you will get wear on the gear and tooth track. The only way to know if there are still accurate is with calibration blocks. Mine had over 0.001" wear.
 
I had to ditch my Harbor Freight ones for RCBS's caliper. I think it was 30 or 40$. I couldnt get the cheapy to stay zeroed.
 
Blue68f100 said:
I've wore out a set of Starrett #120, 20+ yrs of use. If used in a dirty environment you will get wear on the gear and tooth track. The only way to know if there are still accurate is with calibration blocks. Mine had over 0.001" wear.
Since most of us don't have gauge blocks, how about using feeler gauges for checking used (or even new) calipers?
 
I've wore out a set of Starrett #120, 20+ yrs of use. If used in a dirty environment you will get wear on the gear and tooth track. The only way to know if there are still accurate is with calibration blocks. Mine had over 0.001" wear.

+/-.001" is plenty accurate.
 
I prefer the digital calibers, much easier for me to read. Batteries are really not an issue, I use batteries for flashlights, radio's, phones, camping lanterns, glucose tester, most but not all of my daily wear watches, and for my calibers.

Hey even the laser pointer we use as a kitty toy uses batteries, happens to be the same as used in all 3 of my digital calibers.

Regarding the ones the OP had a link to, the seller does offer a 14 day return if unsatisfied, that's always a plus IMO.
 
Since most of us don't have gauge blocks, how about using feeler gauges for checking used (or even new) calipers?
I use pin gauges. In most case it will be in one are of the dial range. Mine were off >0.002" in some areas of the dial and then would tighten up if you got out of that range.
 
I use digital, dials and vernier calipers. I like digital but anywhere I have them there is a dial close by. If I am only going to have one kind around the dial is my pick or I am measuring something so long I need to use the vernier calipers but I have never had any reason to measure something 4' long with calipers for reloading.
 
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