Walker question

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Tallship

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Just got my new Walker from Midway yesterday, :D and have a question. The pins on the barrel-frame link are so tight that I have to rap on the muzzle with a soft mallet to get the barrel and frame together. Is this normal? My 1851 and 1860 slide right together with no problem at all.
 
I had a simular experience with my new Walker.
Now, after some shooting, it comes apart and together like clockwork.
Maybe your Walker will 'fix itself' as well.
Hildo
 
Tight pins

Is it normal? No.

Is it unusual? Also, no.

I have the same problem with my 2nd Model Dragoon and a couple of others, but not on all my Colts.

So, what to do? I lube the pins with Bore Butter, but that hasn't really helped much yet. Turning them down is very difficult, obviously. And opening the holes in the barrel frame assembly is, well, a little dangerous.

So, I'm living with it.
 
If things don't loosen up after a few firings and disassemblies, you can always lightly polish the pins and mating surfaces. That'll take off any machining burrs and make disassembly easier without loosening tolerances.
 
My Walker was the same initially... a few hundred shots later... no issues...

Enjoy the gun... it is wonderful to shoot.
 
the main aggrevation with those pins is that sometimes they are not stuck in the frame very tight and will pull or fall out when you remove the barrel. I've been able to punch the holes a bit to tighten up the fit.
 
Walker

I just received a Uberti Walker from Midway also. The barrel had to be removed from the cylinder pin with wooden wedges. I had to file and polish the pin to make it slide into the barrel. Once that was done and new nipples installed that would hold #11 caps the gun in fine. It is my opinion Uberti quality control is questionable. The finish is great but their actions are funky.
 
Welcome

Mr. Hawkins,

Welcome to the forum, and thanks for posting your experience.

Uberti's quality control is generally quite high but there are some pretty glaring escapes.

Your complaint about the action is not uncommon, but I have to ask how many rounds you've put through the gun first. In my experience it takes a couple hundred rounds to smooth up an action on almost any gun before it gets to a point I like. This is my experience on new Rugers, S&W's, Berettas, Glocks, Ubertis, Piettas, almost anything except the very top of the line (and very expensive) weapons. On the Ruger forum, for instance, they will tell you to dry fire the weapon a couple of hundred times to smooth up the trigger. There are no reasonably priced guns that come out of the box with smooth triggers or action.

That being said, there is a lot you can do to hasten that process - especially the Colt reproductions. I put about a hundred rounds through each new gun, then strip it down and look at the wear points in the action. These are usually the same each time, so it's pretty easy to do. I polish the wear points with a very fine stone either by hand or with a Dremel tool, oil and reassmble and then shoot another hundred or so. I've found that the biggest improvement in the Colt repros can be had by polishing the channel that the hand and hand spring operate in; I also carefully polish the bearing points on those parts. It also helps to polish the sear and hammer bearing surfaces, although this must be done with caution as removing too much (almost any!) metal here can be very damaging and result in a very light trigger.

I know that many people think this sort of "extra effort" is not acceptable in a new gun, but it's what the original guns required, and unless you are willing to pay much more for your toys it's something that needs doing. Cimarron's Uberti Walkers are $100 more than what other sellers charge, but people do buy them because they have a reputation for being a higher quality standard. That tells me what the cost of that quality perception is; you can either spend the money or do it yourself.

I'm not trying to pump up Uberti's QA. I've had some stinkers from them. It could be better, but frankly, they don't screw up very often, and I think that for the price they're pretty much above the industry standard by a hair or two.
 
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uberti quality control can lack at times but i think i have noticed it is getting better. tight pins are better and may well be a quality control improvement. i've read of tighter arbor holes and frame pins and have seen tighter hand holes in hammers and chambers closer to barrel groove diameters ect.ect. guns break in so i'd rather have it be a little tight to begin with so it breaks in tighter. better than it being loose when it breaks in...in my opinion. excuse the type-surgery-only one hand to type with.
 
Same problems with Dragoon

I have been having a similar problem with a Cimarron 2nd Model Dragoon. The pins and holes seem to be good, but the barrel assembly will not fit flush with the frame. It is about a credit card thickness off, and the wedge will not go through easily.

The loading lever comes down on every shot. The last time out, the lever catch slid out of the groove and fell onto the table. It fits loosely, and I'm not sure how to secure it in. Would some kind of adhesive work? Can anyone suggest a permanent fix for the lever catch, i.e., keeping it in the groove.

And, what kind of replacement nipples would work for #11 caps. I have tried Remington #10s, and CCI #11s in regular and magnum, and the fit is way too tight on the factory nipples.

colonialrob
 
"I'm not trying to pump up Uberti's QA. I've had some stinkers from them. It could be better, but frankly...."

that entire post pretty well captures the reality of it. Uberti has gotten better with metalurgy and mechanics. A lot of credit goes to Mike Harvey at Cimarron arms but since the Uberti company went in with the people who own Beretta, I believe quality is about the same regardless of importer.
The people who build these guns are not generally shooters or gun people and the end user can expect to have to fiddle with them to get everything exactly right.
the dovetails at the Uberti loading lever catch, whether located forward as with the navy/army revovlers or under the barrel in the case of the walker, seem to be located at a point of stress during firing or recoil. If they are at all prone to walking loose, nothing short of an adhesive will keep them in place. Tightened dovetails open up rather quickly if not accompanied by something along the lines of two-step adhesive. I've had good luck with J&B Weld.
 
Walker

Thanks for the welcome. In addition to the other problems I had with the new Uberti Walker, the loading lever latch fell out of the dovetail. After my banging on the barrel with the wood wedges I no longer have a cherry. The long term fix for the catch is to stake it with a punch in a couple of places. Now that I have fired the pistol about 24 times it has loosened up and comes apart easily. I have not had the lever drop, even with 50 grs. of powder. I will polish the inner works when I clean them the first time. The Walker is alot of fun to shoot.
 
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