Walther P-38

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jwalk

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I was in Impact guns the other day buying ammo and saw a Walther P-38 for $309. My dad has always made noise about getting one since he loved shooting his old roomates. Well, taxes are filed and I have a bigger than expected return and am considering going and getting it for him. Anyone have any experience with them? Is $300 a good price? I haven't been able to find any under $400. Impact's website says their walthers are in good-excellent condition. Is this something I shouldn't pass up?
 
Dont really know what they are worth, I've got one, but mine was passed down from my dad. Shoots great, easy to clean ,and kinda fun.

There are a couple of websites (I never saved the urls) that help you decipher the serial numbers. If it matters, you can chek the serial numbers. complete numbers are on the: frame, receiver and barrel. If they dont match, then the gun has been made from a mixed heritage. IIRC, the stop block has a number on it, but only the last 3 or 4 digits. the most common ones are "byf 43" IIRC, which means they were made by mauser in 1943. and some have eagles stamped on them (dont know if that makes them worth more or not). others (more desireable) have a stamp (which I'd have to look up which indicates that it was issued to the SA, which makes it more collectable. And most have grips that are dark and were made of the old "bake-light" material.
hth (I realize it doesnt answer your question, but, if you can afford it, it might be fun to play with for awhile),
Steve
 
I've got an old Nazi P38, BYF 44, I've had it for a long time, I think I paid $50 for it about 20 years ago. The metal is pitted and it's been reblued, but it's a great shooter. It's no High Power, but it's reliable and accurate.
 
P 38's have been in production since 1938, so It all depends on what it is. An all matching Nazi AC41 can go for $2000 and an ex Bundeswehr from 1970's can go for $250, and some you want to shoot and others you don't. I am betting the one you are seeing is the latter. If you can find out the date code and other markings on it I can help you out.
 
Thanks everyone,
I'll have to go look at it in some more detail, knowing what to look for now. I might just walk away with it if it's in decent shape. $300 seems like a good price for a semi-auto, especially if you have a real interest in a Walther.
 
It could be the P1 with an alloy frame. The year of manufacture is stamped into the side of the slide somewhere, so is the date it was manufactured (numbers for month and year). I've seen one P1 that had three-dot sights on it.....wish I'd bought it, it woulve' been a slick shooter. Other than that, I haven't seen a P38/p1 for less than $350.

I'd say go for it.
 
I have some difficulty believing you can get a good/excellent p-38 for $350. P-38s are specifically the Nazi pistols used during the war and very few were manufactured after the war. Many things will determine the price of a real P-38 so some detailed research on your part would be worthwhile. More likely as has been suggested is it's a P-1, which is the same basic design, was used by the German Police and military, and was manufactured IIRC into the late 80's maybe early 90's. Prices on the P-1 can vary greatly but speaking based on what I've seen locally, $350 seems on the high end but depending on actual condition and date of issue etc, may be worthwhile.

Another excellent site to look at with lots of background pictures and info..

www.p38forum.com
 
More likely as has been suggested is it's a P-1, which is the same basic design, was used by the German Police and military, and was manufactured IIRC into the late 80's maybe early 90's.

To add to New Geezer:)

P1 & P38 post war are the same gun, just that P1 is the army version and P38 the civilian. Some P38's were used for the army to fill contracts. The army guns you can tell because they will have one, two or three eagles with a number stamped under it (very small). Civilian guns have an eagle over and N and a staghorn with a date code. There were many hundreds of thousands of these post war p38 produced and are a very good deal right now since the market is flooded with them. If it has a alloy frame, make sure it has the hex pin in the frame above the trigger, this was a modification done because the original frames cracked.
 
If it has a alloy frame, make sure it has the hex pin in the frame above the trigger, this was a modification done because the original frames cracked.

The hex pin was added to the design in 1974 and it's presence is desired because it's likely the gun will have all the improvements in parts and material made over the years. Since the guns were in active use for decades before the hex pin was introduced the issue of frames cracking was more a consequence of improved, more potent ammunition. Even with the hex pin it is recommended to stick with standard velocity ammo and avoid the high powered stuff. I can personally attest that even with the hex pin, frames can crack . Actually the hex pin does not strengthen the frame against recoil, it's located to prevent the steel locking bolt from "peening" the alloy frame as the barrel/slide etc return to battery. The "peening" most likely occurred as a result of beefing up the two recoil springs to handle the improved ammo.

In any event, there are many owners of alloy frame P-1s and P-38s without the hex pin, who regularly shoot their guns without ill effect but they scrupulously avoid any ammo remotely high powered. A near new gun without the hex pin may be a better deal than a well used gun with the hex pin.

The main point is you would be well advised to research all the various details and markings associated with the specific gun you're considering because as often as not the gun's value is directly related to what they all mean. This is a gun that's tied into both world history and the history of guns so you consider different things than if you were buying a modern gun for personal use.
 
Crimp,
Yeah, you're right. Maybe I shouldn't advertise that.:D Amazing what one omition of punctuation can do.
 
I got a P-38 some years ago and only shot it a few times (Don't know why)...
It's a great gun, LOADS of fun to shoot as previously mentioned



Incidentally....
It shot EXTREMELY low, like 10+ inches at 25 yards. A buddy of mine suggested heavier bullets, so I loaded up some 140 gr JHP's and that did the trick!
Now it only shoots 1-2" low at 25 yards.

If you have the extra $$$$ burning a hole in your pocket grab one..
Just don't be shootin' any of your room mates :neener:
 
Eightball:

100_5812.jpg


This picture is of my (surplus) German Gov't P5, and my (surplus) German Gov't P1.

I've had the P1 now for about three years. I bought it on-line from "Impactgun" for $199.00 + shipping. When the pistol arrived I was pleased to find out that it was one with the "fat slide conversion" and had the desirable frame strengthing hex bolt, heavier slide, and the three dot white sights. It came absolutely "as new", and when I disassembled it prior to firing to clean it (it didn't need it) it looked like a brand new firearm.

Another surprise, it was suppose to come with one factory mag, a used leather, flap, holster and a small cleaning kit.

It came with an 2nd additional new factory mag, still wrapped in oil paper, a new leather flap holster and cleaning kit.

I've only run a 100rds or so thru it, (it's just a fun plinker) but so far it is poa/poi at 10' and functioned perfectly. It was designed to be a military firearm, not a target pistol, but it's accuracy for me is just fine.

The P5 was a SOG online purchase last year and I was very fortunate to get a great one. It has some holster wear, but shoots like a dream, and is VERY accurate.

I love Walthers and the two pictured below have become favorites of mine.
100_6516.jpg


These Walther P99's (AS versions) are unbelievably accurate right out of the box. Super firearms, and as an overall package the best pistols I've ever owned.

Walther makes fantastic firearms and has for over a century...

Best Wishes,

J. Pomeroy
 
I just got a nice P1 for 305 off gunbroker.com. I tracked a good number of auctions and some guns looked nicer than others but the average was 250 for the guns sold. If you pay more than 350 for a P1 you are a goober and the seller is shelling you.
 
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