Crowcifier666
Member
Looking at some Walther P38s... anyone have any input on these pistols? I've heard a lot of good things about them.
Walther P 38
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gandog56
Member
Nope, all I have is the alloy P-! Walther made after the war. NOT one of my most accurate pistols.
I have a byf 42 WW II model with the steel frame. The real impediment to accurate shooting is the sights, but the gun is very accurate and runs very smoothly as it doesn't have a tilting barrel.
Did you want to know something specific?
Are you looking at a war time model?...post-war French model?...or Interarms import?
Did you want to know something specific?
Are you looking at a war time model?...post-war French model?...or Interarms import?
bannockburn
Member
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- 26,309
I have a French made Manurhin P-1 that was used by the West Berlin Police Force. There's a wealth of information on P-38s at p38forum.com.
Crowcifier666
Member
Thanks for the responses. I was looking at some of the ones listed on gunsamerica.com. that have now disappeared. They were listed as German police issue, and could be had for around $400. I will take gandogs advice and steer clear of the alloy frames.
This will be my first handgun. I don't mind a beater as long as she shoots straight. I don't need a pristine antique, because I will be putting plenty of rounds thru the gun.
This will be my first handgun. I don't mind a beater as long as she shoots straight. I don't need a pristine antique, because I will be putting plenty of rounds thru the gun.
Since you are looking at used guns anyway, you can get a much better gun then the P38 for $400. For example here is a Beretta 92 http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=312644510
76shuvlinoff
Member
I have Dad's WWII bring-back. In single action I do very well with it, DA is a looong pull. Although ahead of it's time in theory the wartime P-38s are not without issues. For instance they don't recommend you decock one with a round in the chamber, (kinda defeats the purpose of a decocker) there have been failures resulting in an accidental discharge. My Dad's was just such a weapon to a poorly made and improperly installed replacement firing pin and a worn internal drop lever. All better now.
Mine is a matching numbered pistol but only shooter grade at best. The mechanics are sound now but the finish is pitted. No matter because as a sentimental piece it's priceless to me.
Mine is a matching numbered pistol but only shooter grade at best. The mechanics are sound now but the finish is pitted. No matter because as a sentimental piece it's priceless to me.
PRM
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- 2,111
My current P1 is one of the most accurate pistols I have. It is capable of chewing out the same hole at 15 yards and past that is more accurate than I am capable of shooting.
There are a lot of P1s on the market right now. My advice, use patients and look at what is out there. There are some upgrades that make them more desirable - but are not necessarily deal breakers. There are thousands in existence without them that are still going strong.
Upgrade 1 to look for is the Hex Bolt. This upgrade was added to give the locking bolt a steel surface to ride on. It decreases wear on the frame. Most Walther(s) would never be shot enough for this to be a problem - but it is a nice feature. It is a hex bolt easily seen on the frame.
Upgrade 2 is the fat slide. The older P38s/P1 did have a small issue with slides cracking. probably from using ammo that was out of the design specs. The fat slide is easy to recognize from the serrations that extend forward of the safety.
Upgrades 1 and 2 see pic
The P1 is a great classic pistol that used properly will outlast most shooters and become a family heirloom. One thing on the P1 is the ammo used in them. These guns were designed around the 115-124 grain standard velocity 9mm ammo. Hot rounds (+P) or heavy grain bullets are not recommended.
The alloy post-war frames are not necessarily a bad thing. I've been shooting them since the 70s with no problems. Most of the P38/P1 history has been built around this frame and it was a European service pistol in this configuration for over half a century. The war time steel frame guns bring a higher collector price, but they have their issues too - war time QC was not always its best. Like any product - it was upgraded and tweaked as it stayed in production.
One additional comment on the P38/P1, sight adjustment is with the front sight only. If you try and drift the rear sight it will damage the top cover on the slide.
For more info on the P1/P38 go to these forums:
http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/
http://www.p38forum.com/
There are a lot of P1s on the market right now. My advice, use patients and look at what is out there. There are some upgrades that make them more desirable - but are not necessarily deal breakers. There are thousands in existence without them that are still going strong.
Upgrade 1 to look for is the Hex Bolt. This upgrade was added to give the locking bolt a steel surface to ride on. It decreases wear on the frame. Most Walther(s) would never be shot enough for this to be a problem - but it is a nice feature. It is a hex bolt easily seen on the frame.
Upgrade 2 is the fat slide. The older P38s/P1 did have a small issue with slides cracking. probably from using ammo that was out of the design specs. The fat slide is easy to recognize from the serrations that extend forward of the safety.
Upgrades 1 and 2 see pic
The P1 is a great classic pistol that used properly will outlast most shooters and become a family heirloom. One thing on the P1 is the ammo used in them. These guns were designed around the 115-124 grain standard velocity 9mm ammo. Hot rounds (+P) or heavy grain bullets are not recommended.
The alloy post-war frames are not necessarily a bad thing. I've been shooting them since the 70s with no problems. Most of the P38/P1 history has been built around this frame and it was a European service pistol in this configuration for over half a century. The war time steel frame guns bring a higher collector price, but they have their issues too - war time QC was not always its best. Like any product - it was upgraded and tweaked as it stayed in production.
One additional comment on the P38/P1, sight adjustment is with the front sight only. If you try and drift the rear sight it will damage the top cover on the slide.
For more info on the P1/P38 go to these forums:
http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/
http://www.p38forum.com/
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Zebraranger
Member
I bought my post war P1 about 5 years ago when the market was flooded with them and they were selling for about $200. I thought for $200 how could you go wrong, It was a great value for a German made handgun with classic looks and a strong history. Its also a great shooter and fun to shoot, I've never had any problems with it.
Crowcifier666
Member
Thanks guys....PRM great info to know, it is appreciated.
56hawk, I appreciate your advice, but I am set on the Walther.
56hawk, I appreciate your advice, but I am set on the Walther.
leadcounsel
member
As a first handgun, I'd say probably no unless it's a steal of a bargain. But in the $400 range, I'd go for a modern pistol...
But I have a few of these and they are nice. Picked them up a couple years ago in the low-mid $300s. Good bargain, but not my first choice for a carry/defense gun. They are innovative.
In my research I learned that the frames are weak and prone to breaking - so there was an improvement that is recognizable by a hex pin in the receiver. These are one of the major things to look for.
But I have a few of these and they are nice. Picked them up a couple years ago in the low-mid $300s. Good bargain, but not my first choice for a carry/defense gun. They are innovative.
In my research I learned that the frames are weak and prone to breaking - so there was an improvement that is recognizable by a hex pin in the receiver. These are one of the major things to look for.
Zebraranger
Member
bc1023, thats got to be the best looking P38 that I've ever seen, just gorgeous.
Crowcifier666
Member
Lead counsel, point well taken. I have an attraction to these pistols for their historical role - being close to respected as the 1911-, and also their aesthetic value as well. I was not a fan of the Beretta, at first glance, but if you have any suggestions for a first handgun, I am open to recommendations.
BC I have to say, I will take that off your hands, but for no more than $400...
Beautiful piece...
BC I have to say, I will take that off your hands, but for no more than $400...
Beautiful piece...
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cpt-t
Member
Walther p 38
Crowcifier666: My Uncle Jeggs brought a P 38 home from WW11 and he gave it to my DAD along with a CZ 25 CAL DUO. I have shot the P 38 & the DUO all my life both are very high quality pistols. When My DAD past my MOM gave me his guns. I shoot both of them but the P 38 the most by far. I have never had a problem with either gun or ever remember any one eles having one. My GUN CLUB has D-DAY shoots quite often, and it is a toss up with gun I will use the P 38 or one of my old 1911. I reload for a 9 mm so I shoot the P 38 quite a bit. It is very accruate, I think, and of high qulaity and it shoots better than I can shoot it. If You find a good one get it and I`ll bet you will really learn to like it. Good Luck To You.
ken
Crowcifier666: My Uncle Jeggs brought a P 38 home from WW11 and he gave it to my DAD along with a CZ 25 CAL DUO. I have shot the P 38 & the DUO all my life both are very high quality pistols. When My DAD past my MOM gave me his guns. I shoot both of them but the P 38 the most by far. I have never had a problem with either gun or ever remember any one eles having one. My GUN CLUB has D-DAY shoots quite often, and it is a toss up with gun I will use the P 38 or one of my old 1911. I reload for a 9 mm so I shoot the P 38 quite a bit. It is very accruate, I think, and of high qulaity and it shoots better than I can shoot it. If You find a good one get it and I`ll bet you will really learn to like it. Good Luck To You.
ken
Crowcifier666
Member
Thanksfor the advice, Ken. One reason I am getting the Walther over a 1911 is the price of 9mm vs .45 ACP. I want to shoot often, and .45 is just too pricey for me. I will have to look into reloading in the future.
Grunt
Member
When I was a kid my uncle had a P38 he had captured at the Battle of the Bulge. I loved that thing and when he died, it was passed along to his liberal kids who I would hope kept it if for no other reason than it was a war trophy and not taken to a gun buyback for a lousy $50!
I doubt they would have though. I finally got myself a post-war P38 that was an old military pistol and it works pretty well. Yes, it's dated in its design with the heel magazine catch, crappy double action trigger and low capacity but she's a real gentle shooter. You just don't want to feed it any of the hotter ammo out there so I generally use 115 grain wal-mart ammo or my own soft reloads and don't have a problem. I also haven't tried it very much with hollow point ammo having mainly stuck with FMJ bullets. It may work alright with HP ammo but it was never designed to shoot them so there may be issues with anything but FMJ. That being said though, it's never given me a bit of problems using ball ammo. Not really something I would actually carry but it's a nice historical piece and a fun range and plinking gun.
I doubt they would have though. I finally got myself a post-war P38 that was an old military pistol and it works pretty well. Yes, it's dated in its design with the heel magazine catch, crappy double action trigger and low capacity but she's a real gentle shooter. You just don't want to feed it any of the hotter ammo out there so I generally use 115 grain wal-mart ammo or my own soft reloads and don't have a problem. I also haven't tried it very much with hollow point ammo having mainly stuck with FMJ bullets. It may work alright with HP ammo but it was never designed to shoot them so there may be issues with anything but FMJ. That being said though, it's never given me a bit of problems using ball ammo. Not really something I would actually carry but it's a nice historical piece and a fun range and plinking gun.
mokin
Member
You guys make me wish I hadn't sold the one I had. Nothing remarkable about it but it seemed like a nice pistol. Accurate enough, had a hard time feeding hollow points but worked fine with inexpensive FMJ. It would be a nice companion to my Browning Hi Power now.
Good grip. Pretty good balance. Surprisingly, greater overall dimensions than a 1911. I am not a double/single guy and that brings issues. Tend to have generous chambers and can be finicky about soft cases. Designed to handle pointed FMJ. As with any large production (P-1 especially) there may be a lack of consistency or perhaps a randomness in performance. A $225 P-1 was a great deal. A $400 one , not so, IMHO.
Crowcifier666
Member
I am looking into the P-1's now. I am probably going for one w/ reinforced frame, and beefed up slide as mentioned above. I have been pricing these around $300+...definitely in my budget. Thanks for the replies!
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