Walther PPK/s Field Stripping

[FJC]

Hello! I just bought a S&W-labeled PPK/s. New in box, never fired other than test-fired at the factory (I assume).

I'm having problems doing the basic field stripping! This is embarrassing, as I'm a long-term shooter with a ton of other handguns, and do full disassemblies on 1911's and others....

Per the instructions, I'm pulling down on the trigger guard and pushing it slightly to the side so that it catches on the frame, out of the way. I then pull back on the slide, and try to pull up to remove the slide from the frame rails. However, no matter how many times I've tried, I've been unable to get the slide to budge off the frame rails!

Is there some trick to this that I'm missing? How far back should I be pulling the slide to find where it should lift up? I've tried various lengths, and "pulled up" through the whole cycling. The spring is very stiff in this new gun, but I believe I've pulled the slide to the full rearward position and tried there.

Any help appreciated!

 

[Johnny Guest]

Hummmm - -

FJC, sounds as if you're doing what I've always done.

Except - - -
Please don't take this as a condescending question, but - - -
Did you remove the empty magazine from the pistol before you started? I knew one guy who felt that he needed to have it in, so that the slide would lock to the rear. That is incorrect.

Mag needs to be out of the pistol. Hold pistol in strong hand, in a firm firing grip. Pull trigger guard down all the way and hook trigger finger in front of the extended guard, so as to hold it as far from frame as possible.

Now use weak hand to draw slide fully to the rear, and lift up as you do. About the time you reach full retraction, rear of slide should come clear. Holding it up, ease slide forward and off the barrel.

Let us know if this works for you.

Best,
Johnny

 

[FJC]

Thanks for the tips - Yep, I made sure no magazine is in the gun. Don't worry about be condescending, I'd rather someone cover all the bases in case I'm missing something simple than assume something that leaves me guessing.

I'll give it another try once my hands recover their strength from all the previous attempts. It sure sounds like I'm doing this correctly.

I'm tempted to take it to the range and put 100 rounds through it to see if that loosens it up some, but I'd sure like to disassemble/clean/lube it first.

 

[FJC]

Ok, I got that darned slide off. After propping the trigger guard down with a pen cap to ensure it would stay in the disassembly position, and forcing the slide back slightly farther than I could get it to go with my hands (by pushing the front of the slide down against the corner of a stiff cardboard box), it finally broke free.

This little pistol is TIGHT, I think it just needs a little breaking-in...

Now wish me luck on putting it back together.

Thanks for the help,

 

[Ledbetter]

For what it's worth, I use a folded business card to keep the trigger guard open and not mar the bluing.

 

[Standing Wolf]

I've found pushing the front of the trigger guard to one side or another is about half as useful as whistling a favorite tune. I just put a piece of cardboard in the space, and remember how I cursed that gun the first day I owned it.

 

[Jim K]

I have not owned the S&W version, but I have had no problem disassembling any other PP type by pulling down on the trigger guard and then holding it to the left with my right index finger while I use my left hand to pull the slide FULLY to the rear and up. Most people's problems can be found in that word, "fully".

Jim

 

[saands]

And I do it almost like Jim ... except that I just stick my right index finger in the space that shows up just in front of the lug on top of the trigger guard when you lower it.

If you have a .380, I'm guessing that the heavier spring would make it harder to do than for those of us with the 32acp PP's ... if that makes you feel any better.

Saands

 

[Johnny Guest]

Oh, Darn! I apologize - - -

Left out perhaps the most important part of the procedure.

You see, you must take into account the derivation of the design, the, the Origin, the ROOTS, if you will.

Before accomplishing the field stripping of this lil' Teutonic gem, one should address it in its mother tongue, whispering small endearments, cajoling persuasively, caressing its sleek lines.

And then judiciously apply some BRUTE FORCE.




Best,
Johnny

 

[FJC]

Brute force - ha!

I took it to the range and put about 150 rounds through it. Stripping it the second time was much easier. As I suspected, just a little break in (probably of the recoil spring as much as anything else) helped.

My biggest issue with it now is that the safety is darn HARD to disengage...must be one heck of a detent in there. It performed flawlessly, though, even with those flat-tipped Winchester FMJ rounds and Silvertip hollowpoints.

 

[Jim K]

The safety will break in with time. I had a couple of stiff ones and used a cut down clothes pin (remember those?) that fitted the thumbpiece, then I sat and worked it while watching TV (gun unloaded, of course!).

With a bit of oil, by the end of the first quarter it worked easily.

Jim

 

[FJC]

Thanks, good to know it will break in. I'll give it a work out today.

 

[FJC]

Just as a followup, I spent some time working at the safety and it did work in just perfectly. Still is quite solid, but a flick of the thumb and it goes off safe nicely.

I just kept it here on my desk (unloaded of course) and every once in a while flicked it on and off a bunch. Probably did a good 200-300 cycles of it over the span of a day's work at home. Added a drop of FP10 into it every couple of hours, and it's very smooth now.

Thanks again,