Yankee1986
Contributing Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2022
- Messages
- 185
I do it while my boys watch paw patrol for the 500th time.
My weekends have waaaaay too much "Baby Shark" but it's grandsons so it's going to be worth it!
I do it while my boys watch paw patrol for the 500th time.
Wads make a big difference in pattern quality. I would at least pattern both.I broke down and ordered the die set from bpi just in case anyone is still thinking about this. The only reason I considered the $90 whack a mole set is because I did not know I had options other than going straight to MEC for a die set and they want $220. I was very surprised and still don't understand how BPI can do it for $120. I'm a real penny pincher I know but believe me when I say my grandfather was way worse. Now I'm contemplating going with a traditional fiber column that I can make myself with a punch I already have vs paying for plastic wads heck I already typically use my 600jr without a bar and elect to divvy out the powder with my lee power flask and spoon out lead with my adjustable shot dipper to avoid buying charging bars and powder bushings
Universal charge bars are the only way to go for me. I never wanted to buy a bunch of charge bars and bushings which don’t allow you to fine tune the load.
The old ones have been discontinued but BPI now sells one. Kinda pricey but I think it’s the only game in town for an adjustable one these days. Out of stock right now unfortunately.
https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Adjusta-Drop-Charge-Bar-single-stage/productinfo/ADCSS/
Wow! Maybe not! I just looked at eBay at used ones and they are $75-$100. Guess they went up when they stopped making them
I agree. I got 500 for something like 12 dollars. Definitely not the expensive part of the load.as for making your own wads it will work but at a few cents each I think the wads help the patterns a lot. Cost more to shoot that squirrel a second time.
I bought some plastic wads I'm just kind of limited cause the only hulls I can find are straight walled Fios and chedsI agree. I got 500 for something like 12 dollars. Definitely not the expensive part of the load.
I'm gonna be working with cheddite hulls and cheddite primers are mostly all I have so that's no big deal. Seems like all I can find are cheddite, fio, and if I'm willing to pay a gouger federal 209AThe problem with using Cheddite primers is the fact that they are bigger in diameter than other primers. So once you switch to Cheddite primers then you will have to stick with them.
That being said, I have not had any issues with the Cheddite primers with my 410 loads.
I just wish they would clearly state in the description whether or not it's a tapered or straight wall wad. I load win AA HS with WinAA wads all the time and I know them to be tapered while all euro hulls are straight walled. I've found crappy data before that hade putting tapered wads in fio hulls and was furious with the amount of powder migration I saw in the clear fio hullsthe top ones are the wads I like but the 2nd link has a number of choices.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2494111915
https://www.ballisticproducts.com/410-wads/products/93/
I see now. That should work perfectly fine then cause the data for the little gun powder in the euro hulls seems to all be for 2 out of the 4 wads that thing replaces. Heck it's practically universalThe hulls in that post are a substitute for 4 different hulls. Very versatile.
http://www.claybusterwads.com/index.php/product-by-gauge/by-gauge-410
Ok so the base of a 410 plastic wad does not vary as much as it does not act as a gas seal in the same way that a 12 gauge wad does? I mean you can see and feel all the play or lack there of in a bad 12 gauge wad and hull combination. You try to take one made for straight walled hulls and force it into a tapered hull and you get a bulge. You take a wad ment for a tapered hull and it slides free in a federal and basically falls in or out of a euro hull. You mean to say that the .410 this is not the case? I sure hope this is what you mean because that sounds wonderful410 hull bases are either straight or tapered depending on the manufacturer and even the different loads. Reloading 410 shells is no different then any other shot shell, you should always stick with the correct load data for the type/brand of hull and wad being used. Now with wads one can safety use the Claybuster 410 wads as a replacement for any others. This is because the 410 does not use a cushion wad like other shot shells do, the 410 wad is actually a shot cup.
I have been reloading 3" Cheddite hulls exclusively over that last few years. I have loaded #7 1/2 shot along with 000 buckshot with them.
Are you saying the straight or tapered hull, the Claybuster 410 wad fits all?one can safety use the Claybuster 410 wads as a replacement for any others.
Heck I never seen any data for the super X hulls I was under the impression they were close enough to the AA just don't last as long
For which powder? I'm looking at the data for the lil gun powder and it doesn't specifically say super X anywhere. It mentions "Winchester compression formed plastic" but I thought that meant the old style AA'sHodgdon has load data for both 2 1/2" and 3" Super X hulls on their website.