I just got a Century Arms WASR 10 from Classic Arms. I would like to enhance the wood work a bit with wood stain and maybe polyurathene finish. However, I am a novice wood finisher and would appreciate suggestions. I have thought about getting the Walnut Stain for guns that they have in the gun section at Walmart. I believe that it is beechwood-casey or something like that that. I am sure you experts will know what I am referring to. Your suggestions are appreciated.
WASR 10 wood finish suggestions
- Thread starter DavidB2
- Start date
- Status
pinstripe
Member
leave it ugly. It is an AK. They just don't look right all dolled up.
WardenWolf
member
Sand and restain. Then refinish. I recommend the Minwax staining system. Necessary equipment:
Sandpaper
Stain prep
Stain
Paintbrush
Paint Thinner
Stir stick
Sandpaper
Stain prep
Stain
Paintbrush
Paint Thinner
Stir stick
If they have a clear coat finish (not an oil finish) You can remove the old finish with easy off oven cleaner or with any other furniture stripper just wear gloves and do it outside. Clean off the wood well with water to remove the chemicals.
Once removed sand it down real nice and clean it with mineral spirits. You can either buy a stain, minwax is fine or make your own with RIT dye and rubbing alcohol (use scrap wood for testing). You may want to make it lighter and put on multiple coats to darken it to the point you like it. Light sanding with really fine sandpaper to smooth the grain that was raised by staining.
Then you can finish with whatever product you like. I prefer boiled linseed oil. It is labor and time intensive though. For it to look good it will required at least 20 coats, rub on let dry for a few hours, wipe of excess and buff with fine steel wool (sand lightly with really fine sandpaper after the first coat), rinse repeat. If you want something shinier you can use a polyurethane semi gloss or gloss finish. They may even have a polyurethane matte or satin finish that would be nice.
Once removed sand it down real nice and clean it with mineral spirits. You can either buy a stain, minwax is fine or make your own with RIT dye and rubbing alcohol (use scrap wood for testing). You may want to make it lighter and put on multiple coats to darken it to the point you like it. Light sanding with really fine sandpaper to smooth the grain that was raised by staining.
Then you can finish with whatever product you like. I prefer boiled linseed oil. It is labor and time intensive though. For it to look good it will required at least 20 coats, rub on let dry for a few hours, wipe of excess and buff with fine steel wool (sand lightly with really fine sandpaper after the first coat), rinse repeat. If you want something shinier you can use a polyurethane semi gloss or gloss finish. They may even have a polyurethane matte or satin finish that would be nice.
Last edited:
sarduy
Member
that's what i did
For final finish I highly recommend Watco's Danish oil finish. It wipes on in two or three applications and you are good to go after a relatively short dry (eight hours or so, I think). It penetrates deep and leaves an nice satin finish.
I recently refinished my WASR furniture, the second set that I have done, and this time used red mahogany aneline dye (alcohol based) followed by the Watco's. This furniture came off of a Fort Benning WASR and was as dirty as a pig, so something had to be done.
I recently refinished my WASR furniture, the second set that I have done, and this time used red mahogany aneline dye (alcohol based) followed by the Watco's. This furniture came off of a Fort Benning WASR and was as dirty as a pig, so something had to be done.
Kymasabe
Member
Sand it smooth, then wet the stock, the grain will raise and get fuzzy, go over the whole stock with OOOO steel wool, then stain it.
To finish up, I don't like a shiny wood, prefer a military matte finish. So, over a flameless heat, I mix 1/3rd boiled linseed oil. 1/3rd turpentine, and 1/3rd beeswax, warm until the wax melts, stir, let cool into a paste, then rub the paste into the stock, gives a nice matte finish, weatherproof, can rub in as much as you want.
To finish up, I don't like a shiny wood, prefer a military matte finish. So, over a flameless heat, I mix 1/3rd boiled linseed oil. 1/3rd turpentine, and 1/3rd beeswax, warm until the wax melts, stir, let cool into a paste, then rub the paste into the stock, gives a nice matte finish, weatherproof, can rub in as much as you want.
I actually am working on my CIA Wasr 10 everyday-- it shoots well and has no sight or mag well problems-- What I am doing is hand rubbingthe stock and foregrip with boiled linseed oil that I boght from Lowe's-- I drape an old clean towel on my lap and use an old clean tshirt to rub the oil in. The stock used to look sort of blah, but now the grain is coming out with varying darker rings.. I will probably seal it with polyeurathane (sp?) or some clear sealer when done. I may just paste wax it and hand buff it-- either way it is shaping up to look nice...
To those of you that use polyurethane and oils and such, how does your finish respond to heat?
I had a gorgeously stained, urethaned finish on my WASR. Put 120 rounds through it, took it home, pulled it out of the case, and the urethane had bubbled up around the gas tube and looked terrible. Now, I have a tung oil finish on the rifle. Took it shooting for the first time since being re-refinished yesterday and put another 120 round through it. Nothing really bad happened, but the finish did get 'soft' and after a while of continuous contact, would pick up the texture of whatever was touching it.
I want a smooth, nice looking finish that I can blow through 6 mags with and not feel like I have to baby it.
I had a gorgeously stained, urethaned finish on my WASR. Put 120 rounds through it, took it home, pulled it out of the case, and the urethane had bubbled up around the gas tube and looked terrible. Now, I have a tung oil finish on the rifle. Took it shooting for the first time since being re-refinished yesterday and put another 120 round through it. Nothing really bad happened, but the finish did get 'soft' and after a while of continuous contact, would pick up the texture of whatever was touching it.
I want a smooth, nice looking finish that I can blow through 6 mags with and not feel like I have to baby it.
- Status
