Yet other have said they have used it for several decades and have had no problems.
The internet is great for finding 180 degree opposite information.
Wd40 rust inhibitor spray
- Thread starter chevyforlife21
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Yet other have said they have used it for several decades and have had no problems.
The internet is great for finding 180 degree opposite information.
The Sarge
Member
Maybe pictures will help. See any difference? Anybody? Bueller?
OK....so the first picture is the updated WD-40 we all know and love and have for years. That is not what this thread is about. The OP is asking about the product in the 2nd picture that has nothing to do with the WD-40 "of 40 years ago" "used on farm animals" et al
OK....so the first picture is the updated WD-40 we all know and love and have for years. That is not what this thread is about. The OP is asking about the product in the 2nd picture that has nothing to do with the WD-40 "of 40 years ago" "used on farm animals" et al
X-Rap
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It looks like you pay twice as much for half the product, I might give it a try but for that money you are into the boutique lubes and solvents so there might be better choices. The old stuff really has worked fine for me so to answer the OP, I say give it a try and see if it really is better.
The thing is, few of us will take the time to test it in a way that is truly conclusive so I doubt if there will be an answer as to which is best but it's clear which is most expensive.
The thing is, few of us will take the time to test it in a way that is truly conclusive so I doubt if there will be an answer as to which is best but it's clear which is most expensive.
dastardly-D
Member
WD-40
The USMC taught me to use WD-40 in 1965,and I still use it today.It will penetrate rust to break a bolt free.You can use it to prevent rust on a stored gun and it hasn't damaged any of my wood stocks ever.Spray it on your whole weapon and then wipe it off leaving a light coating.Back in the day they had us using it to clean our bullets and mg belts,not a good idea.It will leave a slight residue gathering sand,dust,and whatever small particles that might jam up your mg belt.It's cheap,use it to spray thru your trigger housing and then wipe or blow it out.It worked great in the Vietnam enviroment,it will work great in the home enviroment and for the standard American hunter.As to how it works in the Sand Boxes,ask a grunt how it worked over there ? Expieriance speakes louder than opinions....
The USMC taught me to use WD-40 in 1965,and I still use it today.It will penetrate rust to break a bolt free.You can use it to prevent rust on a stored gun and it hasn't damaged any of my wood stocks ever.Spray it on your whole weapon and then wipe it off leaving a light coating.Back in the day they had us using it to clean our bullets and mg belts,not a good idea.It will leave a slight residue gathering sand,dust,and whatever small particles that might jam up your mg belt.It's cheap,use it to spray thru your trigger housing and then wipe or blow it out.It worked great in the Vietnam enviroment,it will work great in the home enviroment and for the standard American hunter.As to how it works in the Sand Boxes,ask a grunt how it worked over there ? Expieriance speakes louder than opinions....
1911Jeeper
Member
WD-40 is in the garage and never comes near my firearms. It is neither a lubricant nor a rust inhibitor. WD stands for water displacement. It more like a solvent than a lubricant and it will dry out.
Rust inhibitor products usually contain wax like solids dissolved in them. After a period of time, the solvents dry out and the waxy stuff remains as an even coating on the surface.
I work in a machine shop and we use LPS rust inhibitor products. Some customers specify their parts be sprayed or dipped after machining. The waxy coating seals the metals and prevents rust. The waxy coating is also sticky and requires a solvent to remove.
To store firearms, you should use a good quality gun oil, re-applied as often as needed, and a dry storage area. BreakFree CLP works well for me. I wipe down my firearms every spring and fall with CLP. I use it on my work tools also. Silicone treated gun socks that can breath are also a good idea.
Lubricants and solvents of all types should kept away from your ammunition.
.
Rust inhibitor products usually contain wax like solids dissolved in them. After a period of time, the solvents dry out and the waxy stuff remains as an even coating on the surface.
I work in a machine shop and we use LPS rust inhibitor products. Some customers specify their parts be sprayed or dipped after machining. The waxy coating seals the metals and prevents rust. The waxy coating is also sticky and requires a solvent to remove.
To store firearms, you should use a good quality gun oil, re-applied as often as needed, and a dry storage area. BreakFree CLP works well for me. I wipe down my firearms every spring and fall with CLP. I use it on my work tools also. Silicone treated gun socks that can breath are also a good idea.
Lubricants and solvents of all types should kept away from your ammunition.
.
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The Sarge
Member
Jeeper...that's nice but nobody is talking about WD-40.
I give up.
OP...your on your own Pal.........
I give up.
OP...your on your own Pal.........
Back in an age of Disco, revolvers in police holsters, and 8-track tapes...everyone in my military unit routinely used copious amounts of spray WD-40 (the old stuff) on all of our weapons and metal equipment.
It was a standard ingredient for cleaning parties after coming in from the wet and rainy field. It got applied to mortars, machine guns, pistols, rifles, shotguns, radio bodies, binoculars, recoilless rifles, crew served gun sights, bayonets, knives, entrenching tools, submachine guns, night vision devices, etc. We used it by the pallet load.
The little mini-cans were carried in rucksack kits for cleaning while occupying patrol bases in the field.
We never considered it as a lube, but rather as a water displacing cleaner and coating. WD-40 was sprayed in all nooks and crannies and also applied with a rag to all metal surfaces after initial cleaning with either hot water or a solvent (usually issue Rifle Bore Cleaner but often spray carb cleaner). This would be followed by generous application of LSA military gun oil (later superseded by CLP).
End result (properly applied) = no rust. Ever. The punishment for allowing a rusty weapon was severe and usually extended to the group...thus insuring that leaders and peers ruthlessly inspected all weapons.
This was SOP in the Coastal Pacific Northwest with generally constant rain, snow, humidity, or salt water exposure. WD-40 also worked well in the southwestern deserts of the US, the bitter winter cold of the Great Lakes region, the coastal surf zones of California and Florida, the swamps of the SE, and the jungles of Panama.
My M1911A1 was often carried for days (or even weeks) inside a wet leather holster while in the field. The pistol was liberally coated (inside and out) with WD-40, with actual lube applied on the appropriate moving surfaces. No rust.
We didn't "know" that you shouldn't use WD-40 on weapons. Somehow our weapons managed to work despite years of spraying WD-40 onto them.
On the other hand, once CLP came into widespread use, I pretty much quit using WD-40 on mil and personal weaponry, because CLP did it all. I participated in the Army's testing of CLP under rather extreme conditions and became a personal convert to its use (to this day).
For me, WD-40 is reserved for cleaning personal weapons which have been dunked in water or become rain soaked. Even then, its just something to use during cleaning, with the excess getting wiped off prior to being replaced by CLP.
I HAVE ZERO EXPERIENCE WITH THE NEW PRODUCT.
It was a standard ingredient for cleaning parties after coming in from the wet and rainy field. It got applied to mortars, machine guns, pistols, rifles, shotguns, radio bodies, binoculars, recoilless rifles, crew served gun sights, bayonets, knives, entrenching tools, submachine guns, night vision devices, etc. We used it by the pallet load.
The little mini-cans were carried in rucksack kits for cleaning while occupying patrol bases in the field.
We never considered it as a lube, but rather as a water displacing cleaner and coating. WD-40 was sprayed in all nooks and crannies and also applied with a rag to all metal surfaces after initial cleaning with either hot water or a solvent (usually issue Rifle Bore Cleaner but often spray carb cleaner). This would be followed by generous application of LSA military gun oil (later superseded by CLP).
End result (properly applied) = no rust. Ever. The punishment for allowing a rusty weapon was severe and usually extended to the group...thus insuring that leaders and peers ruthlessly inspected all weapons.
This was SOP in the Coastal Pacific Northwest with generally constant rain, snow, humidity, or salt water exposure. WD-40 also worked well in the southwestern deserts of the US, the bitter winter cold of the Great Lakes region, the coastal surf zones of California and Florida, the swamps of the SE, and the jungles of Panama.
My M1911A1 was often carried for days (or even weeks) inside a wet leather holster while in the field. The pistol was liberally coated (inside and out) with WD-40, with actual lube applied on the appropriate moving surfaces. No rust.
We didn't "know" that you shouldn't use WD-40 on weapons. Somehow our weapons managed to work despite years of spraying WD-40 onto them.
On the other hand, once CLP came into widespread use, I pretty much quit using WD-40 on mil and personal weaponry, because CLP did it all. I participated in the Army's testing of CLP under rather extreme conditions and became a personal convert to its use (to this day).
For me, WD-40 is reserved for cleaning personal weapons which have been dunked in water or become rain soaked. Even then, its just something to use during cleaning, with the excess getting wiped off prior to being replaced by CLP.
I HAVE ZERO EXPERIENCE WITH THE NEW PRODUCT.
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X-Rap
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Since we all have a can of the old stuff and we are demanding the reading of labels take a look at the back of the can on the old formula.
I don't have a can of the new but when I see one I bet they list firearms as an application.
The old stuff claims to
Lubricate
Clean
Protect
Penetrate
Displace Moisture
It has been doing that for as long as I can recall, some of these uses are not as effective as some purpose made products but as an all around it does a pretty good job.
As far as it ruining ammo and causing a hazardous situation, don't spray anything that claims to be a penetrant directly on ammo or allow it to puddle in places like chambers or cylinders.
I don't have a can of the new but when I see one I bet they list firearms as an application.
The old stuff claims to
Lubricate
Clean
Protect
Penetrate
Displace Moisture
It has been doing that for as long as I can recall, some of these uses are not as effective as some purpose made products but as an all around it does a pretty good job.
As far as it ruining ammo and causing a hazardous situation, don't spray anything that claims to be a penetrant directly on ammo or allow it to puddle in places like chambers or cylinders.
jcwit
member
I went to the companies site and to the mds sheet, Very possible its something similar to this
http://www.fluid-film.com/company.html
This is a super rust inhibitor, non drying and works fantastic on vehicles in the rust belt.
Right Sarg, this WD-40 is nothing even remotely related to the ealier WD-40 other than being made by the same company.
http://www.fluid-film.com/company.html
This is a super rust inhibitor, non drying and works fantastic on vehicles in the rust belt.
Right Sarg, this WD-40 is nothing even remotely related to the ealier WD-40 other than being made by the same company.
1911Jeeper
Member
Summarizing Chindo18z:
WD-40 to displace dampness, and gun oil for storage of firearms.
WD-40 to displace dampness, and gun oil for storage of firearms.
dastardly-D
Member
WD-40
Yes Chindo, X-Rap and others,I guess we just didn't know better,either did our weapons. Live and let live,there is more than one way to skin a cat though......
Yes Chindo, X-Rap and others,I guess we just didn't know better,either did our weapons. Live and let live,there is more than one way to skin a cat though......
jcwit
member
Mobil 1 works well.
jcwit
member
I suppose if one wishes to spend $30/$40 bucks for a qt. of "spec" gun oil, go for it, I find synthetic motor oil to work/hold up just as well.
Now then, back to WD-40 Rust Inhibitor Spray.
Now then, back to WD-40 Rust Inhibitor Spray.
BSA1
member
So,how much rust and gum do you have on your farming tools and equipment?
It depends on how long the tool has been sitting around unused. It is really useful for equipment that sits outdoors.
It depends on how long the tool has been sitting around unused. It is really useful for equipment that sits outdoors.
BSA1
member
Yes Chindo, X-Rap and others,I guess we just didn't know better,either did our weapons. Live and let live,there is more than one way to skin a cat though......
I didn't either until reports of LEO revolvers gumming up and failing to fire started. But in all fairness all of my firearms must go bang the first time and every time. I will not tolerate a gun that is just for target use or plinking misfiring.
LIke I said the manufacturer does not mention use of WD40 CORROSION INHIBITOR for firearms on its website or front of can.
But I don't see this thread changing anybodies mind and it is your life not mine.
I didn't either until reports of LEO revolvers gumming up and failing to fire started. But in all fairness all of my firearms must go bang the first time and every time. I will not tolerate a gun that is just for target use or plinking misfiring.
LIke I said the manufacturer does not mention use of WD40 CORROSION INHIBITOR for firearms on its website or front of can.
But I don't see this thread changing anybodies mind and it is your life not mine.
Just because SOME have used it successfully does not prove it is a good idea. Many others, myself included have seen the negative effects of using it on firearms. I've never been struck by lighteing, but know it is a bad idea to dance in the street during a thunderstorm. I know that sometimes folks who do foolish things are struck by lightening, yet many do foolish things for years with no ill effects. Those that continue to use WD-40 on firearms will eventually have problems.
While it MAY work for a while, there are simply MUCH better choices that don't really cost any more.
The newer version of WD-40 may well work. I simply don't know enough about it, but using the older version is simply taking a bigger risk than I'm willing to take. Especially when there are other products just as readily available that are priced the same and are designed specifically for the job. If it were WD-40 or nothing, I'd use until I could get the right tool for the job.
The Sarge
Member
To the OP..........
I went into town for a bit this afternoon and Home Depot had this new Rust Inhibitor right next to the WD-40 (both old and new versions of WD-40 were next to this Rust Inhibitor). I'll try it out on a test area on my tractor and let you know. Maybe I will PM you so these guys can continue their WD-40 discussion and we will not interrupt them.
I went into town for a bit this afternoon and Home Depot had this new Rust Inhibitor right next to the WD-40 (both old and new versions of WD-40 were next to this Rust Inhibitor). I'll try it out on a test area on my tractor and let you know. Maybe I will PM you so these guys can continue their WD-40 discussion and we will not interrupt them.
I have no doubt about that occurrence. That reporting is exactly what got me to drop use of WD-40 on my personal weapons.
But consider the context. Repeatedly spraying WD-40 into revolver lock work over a period of months or years would probably provide the ideal situation for that accumulation of varnish and grime. I've got long owned revolvers that have never seen the side plate removed. I know very few cops that ever detail disassembled their Colts or Smiths back in the day. They'd have an outwardly sparkling and well oiled gun...with a hidden crust of WD-40 varnish, gunpowder residue, dirt, and lint clogging up the lock work and cylinder mechanism. Same thing with a lot of patrol shotguns that received only cursory care. Not a good recipe for reliability.
During my military use of WD-40, our weapons were detail disassembled, rigorously cleaned, generously oiled, and armorer inspected...almost on a weekly basis. Thus, we never had a problem with WD-40 residue. The weapons were cleaned too frequently and in too detailed a manner to ever suffer from such buildup.
I quit using WD-40 years ago for anything but displacing water and acting as a penetrant on screws and tight parts. It's lubrication properties are just about nil. I'd use it on my personal weapons if it were the only thing available...but that's about it.
On the other hand, WD-40 is not some nefarious super glue that will deadline your weapon through occasional application or less than frequent maintenance. If you choose to use it, wipe off the excess and apply some actual gun oil as well. And don't spend 10 years spraying it into the hidden lockwork of your Python.
I also wouldn't spray WD-40 onto cartridges or allow excess to drip over primers, although testing has shown that WD-40 actually does not magically penetrate and disable most sealed primers. It's not remotely as bad as internet myth has made it out to be, but...letting any penetrant near a cartridge (which might deaden a rare primer) is just not a good idea for a defensive, competition, or hunting weapon. Somebody on one of the firearms forums submerged live rounds in WD-40 a couple of years ago...and noted an extremely low percentage of ignition failures when the ammo was test fired. These were rounds left submerged for days. Almost all of them fired normally. Maybe someone has the thread or a link?
We used to spray the stuff on belts of wet machine gun ammo without issue. All the rounds went bang.
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BIGGBAY90
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