Wedge adjustment in a Walker??

[ChasMack]

In another post I asked about my Uberti Walker and have since found out that Uberti says the problem may be caused by a wedge pin being too tight and causing undo stress on the cylinder, thus making it hard to cock, if it cocks at all. So, how can it be "loosened"? I was able to finally get the wedge out and the revolver is super clean, just need it to work right now

 

[Tommygunn]

Use a smallish hammer with a plastic nose, or a wooden mallet, whack the small end of the wedge lightly and see if you can get it backed out slightly.
A good hardware store can provide you with those tools.

 

[ChasMack]

I was able to get the wedge out, but was told by the fellow who sold it (new, by the way), that Uberti told him the wedge was too tight as far as the cylinder working as it should. They said it was causing too much stress on the cylinder. I put the revolver back together WITHOUT the wedge and sure enough, it works fine. I can cock it with one hand no problem...cocks fully. With the wedge in, the hammer does not come to a full cock...unless I use 2 hands and then only 90% of the time.

 

[ChasMack]

For those who may have the same problem now or in the future, it seems the wedge was too far in. After taking it apart and putting it back together I noticed the pin now is just past flush with the frame on the left. It's maybe an 1/8" past flush...before a good 1/4". The revolver works fine like a new BP should! I need to post some pics of my new baby... a hefty one at that!

 

[mykeal]

The real issue is one that Uberti is ignoring: the arbor pin is too short.

On the Uberti replicas the wedge can be used to set the gap between the cylinder face and the forcing cone; as you have already found out it can be set so tightly that the cylinder binds and causes the action to essentially freeze up.

This happens because the arbor pin is too short and does not bottom out in the barrel assembly as designed. The gap between the end of the arbor and the bottom of the hole allows the wedge to force the barrel assembly back into the cylinder.

The fix is to shim the end of the arbor to get it to bottom out when the barrel assembly is in place. There are several theads on this subject on this and other forums.

In the mean time, set the wedge so that the gap between the forcing cone and the cylinder face is between 0.004" and 0.010".

 

[Noz]

What mykeal said.

Fix the arbor, all other problems go away.

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,25009.0.html

Some help

 

[ChasMack]

Thanks for the link...I love pictures and these really help along with the explanations. I appreciate it and the replies I got...thanks guys!!

 

[BCRider]

The obvious need to lock the barrel to the arbor with complete positioning control seems to be one of those little issues that eludes the Italian clone makers. So it falls to us owners to step in and shim or add an adjuster screw.

It seems odd but since they are the only game in town it seems and on top of that they deliver a very fine looking "kit" of a gun to us for a VERY reasonable price all in all I guess it's not so bad. But I pity the poor first time open top BP gun owner that doesn't know about THR and the help given to us by you long timers on what to do.

 

[Hellgate]

I agree with all of the above that to properly fit the arbor is the cure. However, in the meantime, especially if you are as lazy as I am, you can just set the cylinder gap to .007" by putting a folded piece of typing/copy paper between the cylinder and barrel as a feeler guage and tap in the wedge until it begins to "bite" the paper then take out the paper. Copy paper is typically .0035" thick. Folded over once it is .007" thick (or you can go to a print shop and just buy a sheet or two of paper that is .007" thick and cut it into strips to use as feeler guages). The only problem you might have with the Dragoon or Walkers is the hand spring is pretty stout and pushes the cylinder forward with more force than on a smaller framed gun and you might think the paper is getting "bit" when it is not. So pull back on the cylinder a little to see if the paper strip frees up. If so, you need to tap the wedge in a little more. This is how I set my gaps on all my Colt's revolvers 'cause I'm too damned lazy to do it right but so far it has worked just fine. YMMV

 

[72coupe]

I would recommend that you shoot it a little before making any of these adjustments permanent. Many of the tolerances will change, at least minutely, with some full power loads.

 

[Noz]

Wow Hellgate! You do that each time you shoot?
Drop a thin brass washer in the barrel arbor hole.
Check your barrel frame spacing and if it's close call it good.

 

[Hellgate]

Noz,
Yup. .007 is my lucky number. What if the washer/spacer/shim is a little too thick? Do I then grind off some of the end of the arbor? (I love my grinder)

 

[kituwa]

No dont grind any off of the arbor.Just find some shim stock the right thickness.If nothing else for a temporary fix wrap some masking tape around the end of the arbore and put some JB weld in it till it hardens.The remove the tape of coarse and file the JB till the barrel seat right.

 

[BCRider]

The washer as a shim is an option. But the size of washer that fits in the hole is going to be quite easily deformed by the pressure of the wedge. A more solid form of shim would be a better option.

In a fit of enthusiasm a few months back I "fitted" a few of my cap and ball open tops. If you look down the end of the hole in the barrel you'll see a typical 60° conical end in the barrel. Yet our arbors are squared on the end. What I did was to find a piece of steel rod that is the same or just a hair smaller than the arbor. I chucked this in a hand drill (my lathe is still a few months away from being able to use) and rounded the corners and then cut it off slightly too long. To fit this shim drop it rounded end forward into the barrel and then slide it onto the arbor and check the fit to the frame and cylinder. If it's too long then remove it and run the back over a file to work down the thickness. If it's WAY out just make a new one to same lots of time and your finger tips....

When you get it just right and the gun goes together and locks up with just the right cylinder gap then you can either leave it like this and just take care not to lose the shim or you can do what I did and solder it to the end of the arbor. Nothing fancy, just regular soft solder.

Now you can pop the gun apart for whatever reason and re-assemble it with a light tap on the wedge knowing that your cylinder gap will be the same ALL THE TIME.

 

[45 Dragoon]

Open tops (single actions in gen.) are like Hot Rods . . . . you never get done with um . . . . there's always something . . . . aint it awesome ?!!!

 

[72coupe]

Dragoon your are just pouring salt in the wound aren't you.

 

[45 Dragoon]

lol.

When he gets time he can: drill and tap the arbor for a set screw, make his wedge a "captured wedge", tune the leaf springs for long life and butter smooth operation, put a "Munden step " on the bolt for quicker engagement, lighten the bolt with a cavity (why not, I do), make a bolt/frame block for a solid gun, set his trigger for a nice 2# pull, polish and fire blue the screws, 11 degree his f.c., lighten the V main spring so he can take it out / install it without any tools.

That otta keep him busy for a while !!!!!!!