Walker Wedge Problem

[FiveStrings]

I have a Uberti Walker with a problem. The wedge starts to back out after the first couple of dozen rounds. My usual load is 45 gr Pyrodex and a .457 ball. It gets to the point that, if it werent for the wedge spring catching on the wedge screw (like its supposed to) the thing would probably fall out after firing.

When I first got the Walker I shot a lot of 60gr loads through it, more than I should have in hindsight. :banghead: The arbor looks like it has started to get boogered up a little around the slot edges. The wedge slot through the barrel frame looks ok, but the wedge itself is showing some burring on both sides too.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? Any thoughts on a diagnosis and a solution would be mighty appreciated.

 

[mykeal]

Yep, you're wearing out the wedge. Not unheard of. Solution: buy a new wedge.

 

[Hellgate]

Here is my "blacksmith" (as opposed to a true gunsmith) advice: get a new wedge. BUT, I have taken the wedges that I managed to crush from firing heavy loads (only 50grs FFFg) and pounded them back into their sort of original shape on the anvil of my vise on my workbench. This is cold hammering, not heat treating or anything sophisticated. That was enough to get my wedges functional again so I didn't need to install the new ones but am keeping them as spares. Basically I flattened out the edges that were crunched by the arbor and barrel cutouts. I pretty much just laid the wedge down flat and tapped the margins back to shape. I never did have a backing out problem however.

 

[pohill]

I put a thin shim next to the wedge in my 1860. It's a pain but it works until I get around to buying a new wedge (or until I have a small weld put in the arbor slot). Also, you might have "stretched" the metal, in which case a replacement wedge of the same size will get you nothing.

 

[FiveStrings]

Pohill, I think you may be right about the "stretching". I replaced the wedge and screw a few months back and it didn't take long for the replacement wedge to get boogered up, and that was after I stopped shooting max loads. To your point, the replacement wedge got me nothing.

What do you use for shim in your 1860?

 

[pohill]

I use a thin metal strip that is longer than the wedge (same width), and longer than the wedge slot. I put the shim in, then slide the wedge in. Like I said, it's a pain until you get a shim that fits and a method that works. I haven't had to do it on my Walker but it should work on any gun.
A small weld at the front of the arbor slot (cylinder pin) would work (filed to fit) but I haven't gotten around to finding a welder yet.

 

[fineredmist]

I have the same situation with one of my WALKERS and my fix was simple and inexpensive. I built up the rear surface (the area where the wedge actually binds) with JB Weld. It doesn't take much to fill in the area but be carefull to keep the JB out of the arbor bore as it is a pain to remove. Clean up the area with a good solvent to permit the JB to stick and you are good to go. I was concerned with having to file the JB to fit the wedge but when I inserted it to trial fit, the wedge actually did the fitting. I have fired 30+ rounds (50 gr FFFG) and the wedge is still tight.

 

[FiveStrings]

Thanks for the input, everybody. After a lot of experimenting, the shim solution seemed to hold the wedge in place fairly well up to 30 rounds. I have some JB weld on hand and believe I will try redmists idea (and another new wedge) and see if that might hold up more long term.

Weather in Houston yesterday was about as good as it gets here, just beautiful. I took that Walker and my new Pietta Remmy (another Cabela's sale customer here) out to the range for a workout. I do like that Remington (how could you not??) but the Walker is still the Boss.